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Thread: Poly over paint

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
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    Winterville, NC (eastern NC)
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    Poly over paint

    Currently building an end table and coffee table for the daughters' apartment, and she wants a very contemporary-style table with a black finish.
    My question concerns the finish. Are there any problems using spray-on poly, either oil or water based, onto a flat or satin finish black paint.
    I am using some inferior quality wood for the table, since I don't have enough 2" square blanks for the legs; should not be a problem since it is painted.
    Thanks in advance for the response.

  2. #2
    I think you are headed for trouble with poly over paint. I'd paint it with a paint suitable for the top coat look she wants. A pro paint store should have something that will do a good job.

  3. #3
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    Tomball, TX (30 miles NNW Houston)
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    Buy a quality paint and skip the poly. Do NOT use latex paint.

    An acrylic or enamel paint would be far far bettr than latex. It sticks to stuff set on it and comes off. Called blocking.

    See the other post "Need a very durable paint finish "
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  4. #4
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    You can top coat the acrylic paints but it really isn't needed. The other option is a pigmented lacquer or waterbase acrylic like Target coatings offerings. I wouldn't ever top coat with poly though. Either lacquer with a suitable undercoat or with a waterbase equivalent.

    If you want paint I use Sherwin Williams pro-classic alkyd for painted projects. Expensive but very nice and easy to spray if thinned about 15%.
    After a few days it is totally non-blocking and very tough.

    Joe
    JC Custom WoodWorks

    For best results, try not to do anything stupid.

    "So this is how liberty dies...with thunderous applause." - Padmé Amidala "Star Wars III: The Revenge of the Sith"

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Hang on a few.
    I have to run out to the garage and break the news to my clamshell cabinet - the one I finished with dark gray, almost black latex wall and trim paint, then topcoated with Minwax Polycrylic that it's screwed.

    It appears it hasn't gotten the message yet.

    Mike,
    Yes - you can.
    No - it's not the best idea.

    Why?

    It's extra work and expense.

    Had I not stumbled onto a gallon of dark gray material that matched the dark gray Coleman uses on their line of cabinets, @ Lowes on the "bone pile" for $4.00, I wouldn't have done it either.

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=80186

    Here's a picture of the poor doomed cabinet from about 4 years ago.
    If anyone cares to see what the poor dear looks like now, after nearly 4 years of use, I'll snap another picture of it when I get around to it.

    Don't expect much though - other than a bunch of dust on it and a lot more stuff in it, it looks the same.

    Hey - maybe that's the key eh? The dust might be protecting the poly!
    Last edited by Rich Engelhardt; 08-26-2010 at 7:07 AM.

  6. #6
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    I've sprayed Polycrylic on latex...it works just fine and prevents the blocking issue.

    When LOML brings home THE color that works for whatever project and it is latex, I'll do the extra step of putting poly over it if necessary (like for shelving or if a little extra protection is desired).
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  7. #7
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    One successful application doesn't make it good practice. Two, polycylic has no poly in it, it is a water base acrylic clear coat. Similar to many other waterbase acrylics but the only advantage it has is easy availability over the counter.

    If you are starting from scratch than I would certainly go with a quality acrylic paint or pigmented lacquer / waterbase acrylic.

    Joe
    Last edited by Joe Chritz; 08-26-2010 at 4:33 PM. Reason: Spelling
    JC Custom WoodWorks

    For best results, try not to do anything stupid.

    "So this is how liberty dies...with thunderous applause." - Padmé Amidala "Star Wars III: The Revenge of the Sith"

  8. #8
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    I believe we have two successful applications in this thread, Joe.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  9. #9
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    If you are starting from scratch than I would certainly go with a quality acrylic paint or pigmented lacquer / waterbase acrylic.
    Which I agree is the best way to go.

    As I alluded to, and Chris added to - there's unusual and special circumstances where the technique applies.

    It isn't that it doesn't work, it's that there's better and cheaper and easier alternatives.

    (Also - I have to apologize for my dripping sarcasm above. Y'all caught me in a particular bad mood.)

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    To answer your question, yes, you can put an oil based poly over an oil based paint or a solid color lacquer. Be sure to thoroughly scuff sand the painted surface first.

    However. a good oil based paint is as "tough" as a poly. Remember, paint is just a varnish that contains lots of opaque pigment.

    Waterbourne poly is not a good choice. It is not as protective as an oil based finish.
    Howie.........

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