Moulder head question?

[Peter Quinn]

Maybe it's time to give them away.

You are probably right. They were given to me, I should pass them along. But its a catch 22. I got them from somebody who wouldn't use them, who gave them to me knowing I wouldn't use them (I told him so), and I have to find somebody who won't use them to give them too next! Any one who wanted to use them shouldn't have them from me because I don't want to feel responsible for them injuring themselves.

So anybody that asks for them can have them, but by asking for them they have indicated they might use them and thus I can't give it to them, so I am stuck with them! They came with a crappy RAS and TS (both delta, but not good ones), and I can't give those away for the same reason. Anybody smart enought to know how to use them is too smart to want to!

[eugene thomas]

I used one of them in college shop class on a table saw, friend gave me one years ago, never used it. but went out and bought magic moulder this spring. much better cutter sustem.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I own several of them, and use them regularly on TS. I have made hundreds of linear feet of siding using one. (Be sure to keep and eye on your dust bin though.) This were obsolete patterns, which I couldn't purchase.

[keith micinski]

Well, I finally got around to using this thing and I couldn't be happier with it. I was a little worried about all of the safety concerns in this thread but to be honest with you I don't see how this is any more dangerous then anything else I use. I even took to aggressive of a cut the first time I tried it on a test piece. After I backed it off a little and made the cut in two passes I was really happy with the finished product. I kind of wish I could find some more profiles for this thing now.

[Bill ThompsonNM]

Well, I finally got around to using this thing and I couldn't be happier with it. I was a little worried about all of the safety concerns in this thread but to be honest with you I don't see how this is any more dangerous then anything else I use. I even took to aggressive of a cut the first time I tried it on a test piece. After I backed it off a little and made the cut in two passes I was really happy with the finished product. I kind of wish I could find some more profiles for this thing now.

For more cutters google corob cutters.

[keith micinski]

Thanks Bill I had forgotten about that.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I use mine regularly making replacement siding which is no longer available. It's like all tools, respect it and it won't bite you. Don't respect it, and don't be surprised when you get bit! Remember that more shop injuries are caused by box cutters / utility knives than anything else.

[Cary Falk]

I don't think my RAS would have the power to swing that one. Maybe that is why my RAS came with the minature version. I'm not sure I want to swing this one on a RAS either.

[Larry Edgerton]

I have always been going to get one of those for those times when I need a detail in the middle of a panel too far for my shaper to reach, and something that a router can't do. I always end up doing it with a hand plane, but there are times....

I would not consider this on a radial arm saw, and I will do just about anything...

The "Magic Molder" is a better option, but I would not be afraid to use this in a tablesaw.

[Curt Harms]

One thing this type of cutter will do well is make a nicely tapered flute due to it's diameter. The router cut flutes that I've seen stop abruptly. This cutter will create a flute that tapers inward and becomes shallower over some distance on each end which can be more attractive IMO. I guess a router could be jigged to create the same effect but this cutter seems easier.

[Larry Edgerton]

One thing this type of cutter will do well is make a nicely tapered flute due to it's diameter. The router cut flutes that I've seen stop abruptly. This cutter will create a flute that tapers inward and becomes shallower over some distance on each end which can be more attractive IMO. I guess a router could be jigged to create the same effect but this cutter seems easier.

I can see that. I use a ramped jig with a router that is a pain in the tush.

I would like one for beaded flat panels when there is not enough money in the job for real beadboard panels.

[keith micinski]

I also was thinking it would be really nice to make my own bead board with this.

[Rick Potter]

The rebirth of this thread made me go out and look at what I have. This is one of those tools I seldom use, but is really nice when I need it. I bought a bunch of cutters for it on sale at Sears about 1982, then inherited some from my Dad. I have the large one that I bought new, and two of the small ones. The one I bought is labeled 1982, and advertises 21 different cutters available. I have them all, plus duplicates of some, plus one they don't mention in '82, for a total of 43 sets. In reality, the ones useful to me are the three bead cutter and the round head cove cutter. Most of the other cuts can be better done with a router table.

The three bead cutter is great for beads in the center of a panel. My dad used it in 1955 putting beads down the center of legs for a desk he made me. This seems to me to be a very safe operation, as the cutter is only taking off less than 1/4"...you hardly feel the resistance. I use the round cove cutter head to do cove cuts on the table saw. It cuts a smoother surface, but I am very carefull to only take small cuts, because big cuts would definitely be a kickback hazard.

Speaking of hazards, the Sears owners manual states clearly to use a dado type insert, hold downs that they sold, a sacrificial fence board, a push stick, and a special universal holding jig they sold for short pieces. For RAS, they also sold a complete guard setup. (EDIT: IMPORTANT.. The cutting edge faces the screw. This also show you the direction of rotation. Newer units are marked, some older ones are not.)

A couple interesting tidbits: I have a couple cutter sets from JC Penny which are identical to the Sears, except they are black. Price tag on them says $1.89 on sale. Sears sold these setups in a one blade, two blade, and three blade models. I have never seen anything but the three blade. Also, the smaller heads were made to fit 1/2", 5/8", and 3/4" arbors. There were some 1/2" arbor saws back in the day, and I suppose some 3/4" (?). The interesting part is that the 3/4" will fit on my shaper. A few years ago I asked this panel what the tip speed would be, and a math whiz figured it out for me. I have never tried it, but apparantly the small head running on my shaper at 7000 RPM would have a tip speed less than the big head running on my table saw(9163 FPS @7000 RPM, Vs 9529 FPS @ 5200 RPM). Hmmm, replaceable inserts, and the whole thing behind my fence for safety.

Long winded, but hopefully helpfull,
Rick Potter