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Thread: Finishing a Parota Slab

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Asheville, NC
    Posts
    36

    Finishing a Parota Slab

    Hi. I have a 7' x 43" x 2" slab of parota that will become a kitchen table. I couldn't find much info on finishing the wood on the internet, but did find this from Tassajara Designs:

    "When finishing Parota, I've had good success using the following process.
    (1) Tung oil to bring up the color and figure - 1 or 2 coats;
    (2) Sanding sealer - I use a wax-free shellac seal coat (2 lb. cut), then sand out the first coat with 220 grit. This seal coat will "stand up" the fuzz that Parota typically has, allowing me to "clip the fuzz".


    The fuzz that Parota gets when the raw wood is sanded can't be sanded away no matter how much you try - trust me on this.


    A second shellac seal coat and sanding with 320 grit usually removes the last of the fuzz and prepares the surface for your favorite topcoat.


    I've used a variety of water-based and solvent-based topcoats on Parota, all with excellent results provided you follow good surface preparation procedures (same or similar as I've outlined here). Just consider the intended use.


    In particular, since Parota is so soft, you might want a more durable/hard finish if the intention is to use Parota for a table top, counter top, etc. where wear might be a large factor.

    Finally, when performing operations on Parota that will generate dust, I strongly recommend using a dust mask. Parota's dust can be very irritating. I tell people if you like inhaling chili powder, you're going to love working with Parota."


    I have read a great deal about tung oil, and many have bad things to say based on the long drying times. I can see the pores in the wood, so perhaps most of it gets soaked up quickly in Parota. What do folks here think about tung oil? I also have General Finishes Seal-a-Cell clear and Arm-R-Seal I could use. Any thoughts on the above process or alternatives would be most appreciated.

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Tomball, TX (30 miles NNW Houston)
    Posts
    2,747
    Boiled linseed oil will do the same grain "pop" as tung oil for much less money. It will cure faster too. Shellac is a great way to seal wood. Don't get tooo fussy about sealing sanding sealing I usually apply a few coats then sand or scrape it back FLAT.

    Since it solid 2" thick, I would suggest you finish both sides to stabilize the moisture movement and hopefully prevent checks and cracks...
    Last edited by Scott Holmes; 09-20-2010 at 11:05 PM.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

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