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Thread: Bandsaw Blades

  1. #1

    Bandsaw Blades

    I know this is like an oil thread on an automotive forum... I'm sure it's over discussed. But it's sort of a current events question... things are always changing. It seems like 4-6 years ago almost every thread mentions TW as the best bandsaw blade.


    Now I'm seeing people say that they're not the greatest. I've used them and really been pretty satisfied but I have noticed what this guy noticed on my TW blades as well:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrxBP8YBKYM

    I've also noticed the bands breaking at welds.


    BUT that said, they cut just fine. I have used smaller blades for outlines and their 3/4" resaw blades and both have cut fast. They go dull after moderate use (probably 10-15 hours of actual cut time in hardwoods) but I think that's not terrible.

    So I guess the question I'm asking is this, is there something that others have found to work better?

  2. #2
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    I don't know that they are considered the best. Certainly a great blade at the price point. I have used them for years and I too have read recent posts about bad welds. I just received a set of four. The 3/4" is going back for a bad weld. Laying flat on its back the blade has nearly 1/16" gap at the weld. I think they better hire back that expensive guy they let go to "save money" because the returns will pay his salary.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  3. #3
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    Check out this thread of replies to a post I started when I had a TW blade break and then the second one wobbled (or walked). Both attributed to bad welds (even by TW). Lots of coments about TW and other preferred vendors.



    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=148506

  4. #4
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    I called Suffolk this morning. They are sending a new blade tomorrow and had me keep the goofy one for my trouble. It will work fine for rough resaw.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  5. #5
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    I bought a few TW blades...didn't care for them. They didn't seem to cut very smooth and dulled rather quickly IMO.

    I then discovered Lenox blades and I don't see a reason why I would ever change from them. Of course, it depends on what you are mostly doing on your bandsaw but my chief task is slicing veneers--resawing.

    For that, I've found the spendy carbide Trimaster to be and excellent blade that cuts rather smoothly. However, it is expensive. I then discovered the Diemaster2 bimetal blade and it cuts almost as nicely as my Trimaster and at 1/5 the cost and wow, it sure does stay sharp for a long time.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  6. #6
    Chris, who makes the diemaster, I would like to check them out.
    tom

  7. #7

    Second on the Lenox brand.

    I've been using Lenox for over 10 years and have been really satisfied. In that ten year period I have tried other brands (TW included) and saw shops but keep coming back to Hastings Saw in Rohenert Park, CA. Dave is a good blade welder and only once have I had to send a blade back. Blade welding is a semi-automated process and bad welds usually mean the machine settings are off or the operator set it incorrectly so chances are if you get a bad weld there are most likely other poorly welded blades in the same batch.

  8. #8
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    First, Thomas, Lenox makes the Diemaster.

    Chris, high silicon steel (Swedish) blades dull quicker than standard carbon but are initially sharper. That seems to be the allure but unless you need an uber-sharp blade for a few cuts it is false economy, even worse are the hardened spring steel blades like the Woodslicer et al, very sharp initially but dull even faster than silicon steel. The only blade I use besides Lenox for 1/4" and above is the Resaw Master, a little better for wood IMHO than the Trimaster and you can get it resharpened, still looking for a TM sharpener...

    Also consider the 1" Woodmaster CT great blade and cheaper than the TM.


    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Padilla View Post
    I bought a few TW blades...didn't care for them. They didn't seem to cut very smooth and dulled rather quickly IMO.

    I then discovered Lenox blades and I don't see a reason why I would ever change from them. Of course, it depends on what you are mostly doing on your bandsaw but my chief task is slicing veneers--resawing.

    For that, I've found the spendy carbide Trimaster to be and excellent blade that cuts rather smoothly. However, it is expensive. I then discovered the Diemaster2 bimetal blade and it cuts almost as nicely as my Trimaster and at 1/5 the cost and wow, it sure does stay sharp for a long time.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  9. #9
    I just put a new woodmaster CT. 2tpi on my Felder 540.

    It is fantastic. The cut is amazingly smooth and I barely have push the wood thru.

  10. #10
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    I have to agree about the Trimaster blades. Great blade but I find myself cleaning it often. You can tell when it needs cleaned. Especially when you have a 24 inch bandsaw that's a lot of blade to clean. But all in all I like the Trimaster for resawing, in fact at times I'm pretty amazed at the quality of the cut. One light pass on the belt sander and the veneer is or what ever is cleaned up. Like Van mentioned, can the Trimaster be sharpened? I've heard that the one that Laguna sells can be sharpened.

  11. #11
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    I've been using Hasting's for over 25 years they do great work and lenox is a nice blade. All I use is the diemasters they seem to last a long time and are well worth the price.
    Tom

  12. #12
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    I tried a lot of band saw blades in the past 10 years. They all (except Delta) cut very well for a short time. I finally bit the bullet and bought the Lenox carbide tip blade last year. So far it was worth the price.
    Paul

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ben Abate View Post
    Like Van mentioned, can the Trimaster be sharpened? I've heard that the one that Laguna sells can be sharpened.
    The Laguna RM can be resharpened by them for $45, will take 3-4 sharpenings.

    I have NOT found a sharpener for the Lenox, even ask Lenox at IWF, I have a name and number for THE Lenox sharpener guy who as they said can if anyone can. I have yet to find the time to call him and verify: 1 that he can do it and 2 does he want hordes of internet hobbists sending him blades since he is an industrial sharpener.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  14. #14
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    I thought it would be appropriate to post an update. The replacement blade showed up from Suffolk day before yesterday. I just checked it. The weld is perfect. That's 2 wonky welds in 5 years for me.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Padilla View Post
    I then discovered Lenox blades and I don't see a reason why I would ever change from them. Of course, it depends on what you are mostly doing on your bandsaw but my chief task is slicing veneers--resawing.

    For that, I've found the spendy carbide Trimaster to be and excellent blade that cuts rather smoothly. However, it is expensive. I then discovered the Diemaster2 bimetal blade and it cuts almost as nicely as my Trimaster and at 1/5 the cost and wow, it sure does stay sharp for a long time.
    Chris, you peaked my interest with this and another thread. I went to their site and started an order, but I am at a loss for which set I need. For example, for resawing and for a general purpose blade. Can you make a suggestion? Also, what gives with the 3 different 1/2" widths ( what does the .20, .25 and .30 note?)? I suppose I could just ask the company, but we have you right here! :-)

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