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Thread: Emergency repair question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    East Lansing, MI
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    Emergency repair question

    Hi Everyone,

    It seems like every project I do has at least one stupid moment...usually right at the very end. This time, I was mounting a 7 foot long shelf that bridges between two tower bookcases (over the back of a sofa). The shelf slipped and one corner gouged a nice hole in the side of the bookcase (perfectly finished already, of course). I'm trying to think of the best ways to fill and repair the damage. The hole is about 1/4 x 1/8 inch and maybe 1/16 inch deep.

    I have seen finishers use shellac sticks to repair damage but have never done it myself. Does this sound like a viable repair technique for this or is there something better that I have not considered? Will shellac sticks work well on a vertical surface?

    Thanks for your advice,
    Mark Blumer (East Lansing, MI)

  2. #2
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    Dont like to make statements to a prosecutor without my lawer present
    Just kidding Mark but couldn't resist. I don't have any repair suggestions, sorry. But good luck with it. Post a before repair pic and an after pic.

  3. #3
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    Mark You don't say if it's solid or veneer but either way I would look for a small piece of scrap that will match then clean out the gouge with a chisel and glue in the patch being very careful to match the grain as closely as possible.Scrape it flush with maybe a bit of sanding, spot finish the area then mask of the bookcase so you can put one more coat of finish on the whole side if it needs it. I feel your pain. The burnin stiks do work but take some practice to get the touch and blending down just right.
    Steve Jenkins, McKinney, TX. 469 742-9694
    Always use the word "impossible" with extreme caution

  4. #4
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    New Orleans LA
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    I think Steve has it Right

    But just a thought. If the finish is shellac, you can use the same flakes to melt in a repair. Works well. Also to make the patch Steve suggested you can use one of these inset router bushing devices. I'd make a template very irregular in shape but with no corners smaller in radius than the bushing. If that is not clear, get back in touch.

    BTW the inset device is Rockler's #83642 -probably find it on their web catalog if you are not familiar. Others have it too.
    Last edited by Carl Eyman; 12-20-2004 at 9:05 AM. Reason: added info
    18th century nut --- Carl

  5. #5
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    Gouge or a Dent? I would think that a shelf falling like that would compress the fibers on the bookcase rather than just tearing thme out. That being said, a hot iron on steam with a damp cloth between it and the workpiece might get you a lot closer to the original surface so you won;t have as much filling to do.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Gouge or a Dent? I would think that a shelf falling like that would compress the fibers on the bookcase rather than just tearing thme out. That being said, a hot iron on steam with a damp cloth between it and the workpiece might get you a lot closer to the original surface so you won;t have as much filling to do.

  7. #7
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    Good point Steve. It's amazing how much of a dent youi can get out with steam on bare wood. It doesn't work as well with a finish but orth a shot.
    When patching somehting that size I don't mess with a router and template. It is easy enough to cut the piece by hand. The one thing you want to do is try to avoid any direct crossgrain cuts. Make your piece with a fairly long taper along the grain.
    Steve Jenkins, McKinney, TX. 469 742-9694
    Always use the word "impossible" with extreme caution

  8. #8
    I second (or third or..) Steve's suggestion for steam and/or wood. I don't like the shellac sticks because they change color with age at a different rate than the surrounding wood... The perfect repair job today will be obvious in 5-10 years.

  9. #9
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    I had a similar repair recently on a cherry project. One approach is to make a tiny scrap of same material you are using slightly bigger than the hole. Carefully and tightly fit it in and then Sand till it flush w the surrounding surface, This is one approach that lessens the worry about matching/blending the materials later. Just another option for you...because generally a filler generally will stand out!
    Jerry

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Jacksonville, FL
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    You could always just build a new side.

    Seriusly I would try the steam option first then follow that up by using a chisel to clean out the gouge then you could fill with the sticks or a similiar oiece of wood. The steam may get it all if you are lucky but it should at least leave you with less of a gouge/dent to fill.

    Good luck.
    Marshall
    ---------------------------
    A Stickley fan boy.

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    East Lansing, MI
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    Thanks

    Thanks Guys for the ideas.

    The damage is a real gouge...not a dent. I probably could raise the depression a little with steam and I will try that. The side of the bookcase is 3/4" cherry plywood with solid wood edge-trim and mouldings. After I try the steam, I may just decide that this is one of those cases where the cure might be worse than the disease and just dab some stain, varnish and wax (the original finish) back over the spot and declare victory.

    Everyone have a happy holiday,

    Mark

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Blumer
    Hi Everyone,

    I'm trying to think of the best ways to fill and repair the damage. The hole is about 1/4 x 1/8 inch and maybe 1/16 inch deep.

    I have seen finishers use shellac sticks to repair damage but have never done it myself. Does this sound like a viable repair technique for this or is there something better that I have not considered? Will shellac sticks work well on a vertical surface?

    Thanks for your advice,
    Mark Blumer (East Lansing, MI)
    That's a fairly small hole. I've used hot-melt sticks and my "Wood Doctor" kit to repair larger scratches. Is the finish dark? It's very easy to get a good match on dark stained wood.

    Bob
    Spinning is good on a lathe, not good in a Miata.

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