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Thread: after evaporust.....?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Fort Wayne, Indiana
    Posts
    217

    after evaporust.....?

    I recently came accross several older stanley planes that were in need of some love. I want to tear them down and clean them up. pick a few to keep and unload the rest.
    I've taken some advice and bought some evaporust to remove all the rust. but i'm wondering now what to use afterward to prevent further rust...
    I've got multiples of some but here's what i have to clean up.
    all stanleys..
    #4, #5, #7, #8, #113 compass plane, LA Block, some cheapo others....

    thanks in advance...
    brett g.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    332
    Brett,

    As you have learned, the Evaporust will leave the metal covered with a black soot look'n stuff that you'll need to brush off. After the tool is clean, I like to use WD40 on it and then give it a good rub down.

    Another good product is Antique Improver. Apply it with a rag and then wipe the excess off and let it dry. http://www.kramerize.com/ Stinky stuff, but it works good.

    Marv

    Catchyalater,
    Marv


    "I did then what I knew how to do. Now that I know better, I do better."

    ~Maya Angelou~

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Baton Rouge LA
    Posts
    968
    i have never used evaporust. there are many ways to inhibit oxidation including paste wax, a coat of shellac, commercial rust inhibitors, a light coat of oil after each use, climate control, obsessive steel wooling, etc.

    I clean my planes gently with a fine stainless wire wheel mounted on a grinder, lubricating with WD40 as I go. It makes the bristles less aggressive. and loosens the brown flaky rust while leaving the darker patina which i think is protective. and as nasty as this may sound, it leaves a black grease on the planes which i clean off the sole with lacquer thinner but all other surfaces, I buff all that crap into the metal with a dry rag. it seems to do well.

    On a side note I have been experimenting with a plane recently that i ONLY cleaned the sole of. The sides are DARK brown with rust/patina (nothing blooming though). I wiped it down with WD40. I have noticed that it is quite resilient to moisture and I have decided not to clean it any more at all.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    71
    Two steps:

    1) drive all the moisture out of the plane with a hair dryer, this leave tool warm

    2) slather 3 in1 oil or equivalent onto plane and continue to warm metal with hair dryer, or leave out in the sun, or depending on season, place in front of the heater inside the house for as long as you like

    You may wipe off excess, or simply leave it. Saws don't go through a bath, but the above oiling treatment works a treat.

    Peter in Sydney

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    13,053
    Second the paste wax recommendation, and also a very light coat of shellac on surfaces that are not milled mating surfaces and surfaces that will not contact the wood (especially the plane cheeks on long planes that are never going to be used on their sides).

    Far more effective than screwing around with camelia oil or some animal fat - save that stuff for the parts that can't have shellac or where wax will constantly be worn off.
    Unleaded tastes a little tangy, supreme is kinda sour, and diesel tastes pretty good.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Cedar Park, TX
    Posts
    168
    i like to get some steel wool soaked in WD-40 and do a light rub down on all of the freshly cleaned metal. then i'll lightly wipe off the excess with a towel. the steel wool does a good job of working the oil into all of the open pores. it also helps remove the last bit of black residue left from the evaporust. i know you can re-dip the planes into evaporust to help prevent flash rusting, but the residue left over is kind of sticky and needs to be cleaned off anyways. this way is just easier.

  7. #7
    I am breaking my personal rule of not offering advice on internet forums, but I can't resist.

    I would steer away from wd40, and I am not sure about that Kramer stuff. I strongly recommend you use either Boeshield T9 (in the 4 oz drip bottle, not the spray), or microcrystalline wax (Lee Valley has a brand that they sell that is cheaper than Renaissance Wax, but either is great). Boeshield "Bike" T9 is the same stuff as the regular T9, different package. The drip is great, the aerosol is too messy and wasteful.

    Actually you should buy both. You could even put the Boeshield in an empty Japanese camellia oil bottle and pretend it is precious and has mystical properties. Otherwise use it sparingly like camelia oil.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Tampa FL.
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    I have been using a gun care product called Eezox now for a couple months...
    I was tired of reoccurring rust on chisels and plane irons. I was using paste wax. the problem is that in Florida the humidity is high year round and hovers near 90% for a good portion of the year... ooh the drawbacks to living in the tropics. Not to mention that my tools spend 100% of the time in a non climate controlled shop.

    The eezox seems to protect even after use, I just have to remember to wipe them down a bit after heavy use and re sharpening. so far I have not had any more rust appear. I think I will have to try another more readily available product however when this can runs out... maybe breakfree clp. Though I like the dry lube aspect of the eezox
    ...Dyslexic...
    Gibson Woodworking & Design
    Find my homepage in my profile, not allowed to put it here.

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