Walnut Bowl #2 and several questions

[Ken Hill]

Ok, finished turning this one and wiped it down with water for the pics.

It is alot deeper then my first, 6"x 3.25"

I had alot more trouble with my current tools and ofcourse lack of expierence. The Bowl gouge worked well, however i think i need to order a few other tools that might make my life easier and would like your opinion on a basic set of tools for bowls would consist of. Brand and size would be most helpful. I hate buying the same tool 3 times when I could have bought one that works first.

I did have trouble at the convergence of the side to bottom mainly because I could not seem to get a clean cut and as I was trying to clean it all up I ended up taking more material away then I wanted (I am sure alot of that will come with more turning) The bottom got a bit thin on me, plenty left but not enough to make corrections so I will apply this to #3 and hopefully get it right.

Comments, suggestions and advice very much welcome!

[David E Keller]

The bowl looks good, Ken.

You'll get lots of thoughts about basic bowl tools, but I'll give you my two cents. I like a 1/2" long grind bowl gouge, 1/2" standard grind bowl gouge, and a 3/8" bowl gouge with small swept back wings(not as long a grind as I put on my 1/2").

You can change the grind to fit your turning style and the piece you're working on. Two of the three I own are Doug Thompson tools, and the other is a Sorby that will get replaced with a Thompson when the time comes. I like Doug's tools and service. I also like that I'm paying for good steel and not a handle that I can make better myself.

I've got several other tools that I use from time to time(5/8" bowl gouge, heavy duty round nose scraper, etc), but those three listed above get the majority of my attention when I'm making bowls.

[Jim Burr]

I use Thompson. I also have a set that was a close-out from CSUSA about 10 years ago. Stick with Thompson, you may have to grab a specialty tool on occasion, but not many

[John Keeton]

Ken, regardless of the tools you have, that is a challenging form. It would be very difficult to get a clean transition in that bottom corner. Perhaps it may have been better to have followed the exterior curve and avoid the abrubt transition. The bowl is very deep for the width.

In any event, you pulled it off quite well! Really nice wood, too.

Another vote for the Thompson tools. I like mass for most cuts.

[Josh Bowman]

Wish my second bowl looked that good
I think it looks nice. Put a nice finish on it and that walnut will look great! As John said, follow the outline of the outside. I kept trying to do deeper bowls myself, but most really nice formed bowl aren't that deep. And they open up quite a bit toward the rim. Are you using a bowl gouge? If not, I suggest getting one, they make a big difference. Bottom line have fun!
Opps, I'm editing after reading your post more closely. Get a 1/2" bowl gouge. I have Thompson and Sorby and like both. The Thompson will have to have a handle, but that's no big deal, they do cut nice. Mass is the key. Other than that, to get started, a parting tool of some kind and a skew. I really only use my skew to prep the tenon for the chuck. Those tools will last you a long time.

[Ken Hill]

thanks John, it wasnt intentional haha

I believe I need to add a scraper to my tools so I can use it to blend the transition area. Trying to do it with what I have I think, requires something that can better handle it. Ofcourse I know in time I may be able to do it better to begin with..any thoughts?

Josh, all i have is a 1/2 bowl gouge and a spindle gouge. I have small tools for my game calls but they are hard to work with on the bowls.

[neil mackay]

Great piece of timber and a great shape

[Baxter Smith]

Nice bowl out of some pretty wood. Tough for anyone to transition from a steep side to a flat bottom when they are just starting and for some of us, long after.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Great looking bowls. I would get a 1/2" Thompson bowl gouge and I use a hunter tools for the transition.

[Josh Bowman]

thanks John, it wasnt intentional haha

I believe I need to add a scraper to my tools so I can use it to blend the transition area. Trying to do it with what I have I think, requires something that can better handle it. Ofcourse I know in time I may be able to do it better to begin with..any thoughts?

Josh, all i have is a 1/2 bowl gouge and a spindle gouge. I have small tools for my game calls but they are hard to work with on the bowls.

Ken, for the outside of a bowl or HF, I just turned the 1/2" bowl gouge with the flute facing the bowl. It does a very controlled removal of material. It also helps when the wood is being stubborn. I sometimes use a scraper on the inside of a bowl.

[David E Keller]

...I believe I need to add a scraper to my tools so I can use it to blend the transition area. Trying to do it with what I have I think, requires something that can better handle it. Ofcourse I know in time I may be able to do it better to begin with..any thoughts?...

A scraper will work but they can be pretty grabby unless you turn it up on its side for a shear scrape. The Hunter tool will work if you're looking to get one. I use the standard gring bowl gouge for the transitions and the bottom... It's got a pretty short bevel on it and a fairly steep angle which helps me ride the bevel across the transition andbottom.YMMV

[Prashun Patel]

Ken-
I am new to bowls too, and I did the same thing on my first bowls. Here's what I've learned:

I had to resist the tendency to create a large flat on the inside bottom of the bowl. This will force an abrupt xition to the sides. I was able to reduce this by trying to make continuous sweeps from the rim to the center as soon as possible.

Increasing the sweep on the wings of my bowl gouge also appears to have reduced catches when going down the sides, which gave me more confidence and control of the sweep.

Working with shallower or larger diameter bowls is easier for me, and has improved my feel and confidence which has helped my work with smaller pieces now.

My touch is still not that great; on deep hollowing cuts, my gouge eventually builds up ridges that make it harder to control. I get chatter and worse, gouges or uneven surfaces. So my 'trick' is to use a bowl scraper periodically to clean up the surface and keep my surface true. Also, I find the bowl scraper really great for easing both convex and concave transitions. I'm saving up for a nice heavy 3/4" - 1" scraper; my current one is homemade; even that one works pretty well.

[Ken Hill]

What size hunter tool?

[Al Wasser]

If you can find someone local to give you a lesson or two. That will cut down on the tools you "think" you need and speed up the results you want. See if you can locate a turning club near you.