Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 21 of 21

Thread: Hall tree design review

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Philadelphia, Pa
    Posts
    2,266
    Jamie,
    Just an idea, but if you bring the seat off the wall a bit, and add a back, and then put a shelf from the top of the back, back to the wall, then you would create a recess for the backpacks to hang so that one seated on the seat would not be so bothered by the back packs. I know that my kids' backpacks were quite "thick" with books, rarely removed.
    Alan

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
    Posts
    28,504
    Jamie....I'm no expert but with my limited experience with "Craftsman" style...I like #2.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    10,304
    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Turner
    Jamie,
    Just an idea, but if you bring the seat off the wall a bit, and add a back, and then put a shelf from the top of the back, back to the wall, then you would create a recess for the backpacks to hang so that one seated on the seat would not be so bothered by the back packs. I know that my kids' backpacks were quite "thick" with books, rarely removed.
    Alan

    Alan --

    Or maybe I can get pretty much the same effect by just making the seat deeper than normal -- like 24" deep instead of 18". If I do that (or if I do what you suggest), I'm going to have an issue with the sides. If I make them deep too, to support the seat, the whole piece may get to looking bulky. Maybe the sides stay shallow, but I plan on fastening the top of the tree to the wall.

    Jamie

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Tampa, FL
    Posts
    937
    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie Buxton
    This approach is much more sculptural than the first ones. My initial inspiration for this came from the onion-shaped domes on Russian Orthodox churches. Don’t ask me how I made the leap from a church to this hall tree – it just came to me. The sides are likely to be bent laminations. I don’t know what species this wood be. I’d like to do it from Santos Mahogany like the floors, but none of my local hardwood dealers carry Santos in lumber form.
    I really like the Onion, and I think it would look really fantastic if each part were made from a single plank.

    Do the sides in 8/4, which would be tapered -- by hand planing, of course! -- down to about 4/4 at the top. (Or maybe 12/4 tapered down to 6/4? Perhaps a full-scale mockup is needed here?)

    The seat should be 12/4, with an arch along the bottom, i.e., so that it it is flat on top but tapers at the center.

    The upper shelf and back would be 4/4.

    I'm thinking Italian walnut for the backs and sides, (maybe claro if Italian were not available), and some really wildly curly bubinga for the bench and shelf.

    Of course, I don't know if your client wants to pay $15K for a mud room bench, but I think you should definitely keep the design in your portfolio for use at some later time.
    ---------------------------------------
    James Krenov says that "the craftsman lives in a
    condition where the size of his public is almost in
    inverse proportion to the quality of his work."
    (James Krenov, A Cabinetmaker's Notebook, 1976.)

    I guess my public must be pretty huge then.

  5. #20
    I like the first sculptured effect with the barrel sides or the funky Dali-esque last version.

    My only other comment is for something like key's you need, IMHO, a small cup hook affair of some design for he sets of key's to hang in full sight. A shelf collects a variety of other free floating stuff and the key's get stirred into the mix makes them hard to find.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    10,304
    Tom --

    Yes, I've considered doing the onion's sides as a tapered bent lamination, thicker at the bottom than the top. If I did it that way, I'd use some secondary wood for the inner laminates toward the back, and only use the good stuff where it will be seen. But no, I would not make tapered laminates with a hand plane. They need to have nice flat faces for the glue line to be thin. I'd make them with a tilted sled and a thickness planer.

    Budget is certainly a concern. Curves take longer to build than straight stuff. I won't be surprised if that drives the homeowner toward the easier designs -- darn it!

    Jerry --
    My intent is that mail, keys, cells, and such go on the "plate rail" above the coat hooks on the right wall. But maybe you're right -- I should also provide smaller hooks for an alternative spot for keys.

    Jamie

Similar Threads

  1. SMC Design Critiques
    By Aaron Koehl in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 12-22-2004, 3:45 PM
  2. SMC Design Critiques
    By Aaron Koehl in forum Design Forum
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 12-22-2004, 3:45 PM
  3. Hall Tree
    By Gary Max in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 09-24-2004, 7:45 AM
  4. Hall Table Design
    By Brian Triplett in forum Design Forum
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 02-19-2004, 5:10 PM
  5. How much for a Cherry tree?
    By Joe Tonich in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 07-16-2003, 5:58 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •