Sam Maloof's finish

[Jerome Hanby]

Scott,

Maybe I missed something in the overall tone of this thread that would answer this question, but what makes Tung oil a "terrible" finish? I can see that it wouldn't be very tough and that it isn't going to make a shinny covering, but I think the look is beautiful. I'm looking at a pen my wife made me from a walnut blank that she finished while it was still on the lathe using Tung oil and I love it. the feel of the surface in my hand is very pleasing.

I also used Tung oil to finish a hard maple handle I turned for the Thompson Bowl gouge I got her a few Christmas' ago. I really like the look and feel of it also.

I haven't used it on any flat work yet, so maybe it does better when it's rubbed in with spindle work still on the lathe.

Just curious about the term terrible in this context.

[Scott Holmes]

Well, I need to clarify what I'm saying... 100% pure Tung oil is a terrible finish by itself. It needs constant up keep and will eventually crystalize and then need to be stripped.

What "tung oil" did you use? Most "Tung oil" finishes are not even made from tung oil.

[Pat Barry]

Scott - thanks for the information. I'm not a chemist so is the Waterlox that Prashun is referring to the same thing you are talking about? I spent some time on their website and it sounds like a good solution. Interested on your thoughts or if you can recommend another brand.

[Scott Holmes]

Pat,

Waterlox is a brand name; yes, it is a top quality, phenolic resin/tung oil, varnish.

[Jerome Hanby]

Well, I need to clarify what I'm saying... 100% pure Tung oil is a terrible finish by itself. It needs constant up keep and will eventually crystalize and then need to be stripped.

What "tung oil" did you use? Most "Tung oil" finishes are not even made from tung oil.

I used 100 % tung oil from Woodcraft mixed about 50/50 with pure gum turpentine.

I had never heard of the crystallize bit before...

[Pat Barry]

After reading this blog and comments and then the Waterlox website I am ready to try it. Do you guys brush it on like they recommend?

[Prashun Patel]

I've brushed Waterlox a couple times. It brushes better than the several other brushing varnishes I've tried.

However, I like to use it as a wiping varnish. It does not require thinning. You can apply it like any other wiping varnish, but I really like the way the manufacturer recommends applying it, by 'rubbing in' small amounts. What yr actually doing here is letting it be on the surface for a long enough time that it soaks in and starts setting up, and then rubbing OFF the excess.

[Scott Holmes]

Prashun,

That is not really the proper application method for Waterlox Original; it's fine for the thinned product called Waterlox sealer Finish. (Which is really just the origninal thinned to wiping consistancy). I hope they aren't recommending to rub in the original...

[Prashun Patel]

Sorry! I didn't realize there was a difference. I meant Waterlox Original Sealer Finish. Full disclosure: I haven't used the Satin or Highgloss vsns of Waterlox Original; I believe they are full strength.

The sealer can be brushed too.

[Jack Clark]

That is not really the proper application method for Waterlox Original; it's fine for the thinned product called Waterlox sealer Finish. (Which is really just the origninal thinned to wiping consistancy).

I'm trying to make sense of the Waterlox product line. On their website they list Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish, product #TB 5284. Is that what you are referring to above as okay for a wiping varnish?

Then there is Waterlox Original Satin Finish and Waterlox Original High Gloss Finish. Not so good for wiping?

Could you clarify? This varnish stuff gets real confusing real fast.

Thanks

[Scott Holmes]

Except for new gel gel type varnish, which I don't use; one, because it's poly, secondly, I want a smooth thin coat, gel doesn't compute)

Any regular varnish can be made into a wiping varnish by mixing it ~50/50 with mineral spirits or the thinner that the manufacturer recommends (there are a few that do better with the specified thinner than with MS).

Properly applied, 3 wipe-on coats should give you the same dry film thickness of 1 properly brushed coat.

[Robert Wolf]

I put mineral oil. Mineral spirits. Johnsons paste wax and clear gloss poly equal parts. Brush on. 320/400 sand in wipe after 10 minutes. Leaves a nice soft finish. I've used brush cleaner once because it's all I had on hand. Seemed to work well other than forcing me to don a respirator outdoors. LOL.

[Randy Goodhew]

Kevin,

-Formby’s Tung Oil Finish – Alkyd resin /soya oil wiping varnish. I don't use their products. (Deception in Marketing there is no tung oil never has been)

Nonsense!

Please cite a reference.

Blessings.

[David Bassett]

Nonsense!

Please cite a reference.

Blessings.

Harsh! Especially when replying to the acknowledged local expert, maybe you should offer counter evidence.

Formby doesn't list ingredients. Every report or review I find that does agrees there is no tung oil in it, that it is an oil based varnish. E.g. Bob Flexner discusses the labeling of consumer finishes in: Oil Finishes: Their History and Use (though he doesn't address "Formby's Tung Oil Finish" ingredients specifically.)

For further research lmgtfy.

[Randy Goodhew]

Harsh! Especially when replying to the acknowledged local expert, maybe you should offer counter evidence.

I define harsh as denigrating the vendor and claiming deception in marketing when there is proof to the contrary.

Formby doesn't list ingredients.

Actually they do. Also, you can email them for an answer.

Every report or review I find that does agrees there is no tung oil in it, that it is an oil based varnish.

Note: Google searches don't return facts only frequency.

Blessings.