End caps on kitchen cabinets

[Dave Anthony]

How do you make end caps on kitchen cabinets? I've seen many cases where the exposed end caps are simply edge banded plywood which seems rather plain. Also, if you chose this approach and your cabinets are made of prefinished maple with say, cherry face frames & doors/drawers, do you build the cabinet with the exposed side constructed of cherry ply, or is the entire cabinet made of maple with an extra piece of cherry covering the end? My wife wants me to tackle a fairly small kitchen, and I question my design/building expertise. Attached are some examples of "end caps" none of which seem quite right.

Exhibit A: Mitered "folded face frame w/ 1/2" ply insert - I like this look but getting 1/2" stock might be problematic
IMG_2065.jpg
Exhibit B: 3/4" trim on top - looks heavy

Exhibit C: Face frame sticks out 1/2", horizontal pieces glued on - looks a bit cheezy _ and yes, I know the top is too light - I thought 1" would make it look top heavy & used 3/4" - I'll replace it someday (maybe)

Also, LOML wants birdseye maple cabinets. Is this a really bad idea? I mentioned the cost of birdseye maple ply and she shrugged & asked "How many sheets do you need? I was thinking 3/4" birdseye for endcaps, 1/4" birdseye for doors, solid maple face frames and 1/2" birdseye ply (assuming I can find it) set in a rabbet in solid maple frames for drawers. All the solid maple would be plain w/birdseye only on the ply. I have a well equipped shop in a 2 car garage, and spray equipment but no place to spray. I'd need to make the cabinets one at a time & rent a storage facility for storage.

[David Thompson 27577]

In your three examples..........

In exhibit B, the corners of the frame pieces were done with a router AFTER assembly. The rounded corners of the frames therefore look kinda cheap. Do it right -- create the profiles before assembly, and do whatever is needed to get the corners right.

I can't tell much about exhibit C, since the pic doesn't show much detail. But overall, that pic looks good.

Exhibit A is what I like, although I have no idea what you are talking about when you call this a "mitered folded" face frame. To me it looks like traditional design.

[Peter Quinn]

I make a finished end panels exactly like one of the cabinets to which it will be applied. Frame and raised or flat panel. You can then either miter the corner of the face frame and end panel and glue them together, or run a rabbit on the back of the face frame, leaving maybe 1/4" from face to back, then glue the end panel in to the rabbit and flush trim later. For an open book case like your third picture you can take a different approach, but for basic kitchen cabinets with pre-finished maple interiors I find an applied end panel the simplest method. Its easy to construct in the context of making the doors, just size the corresponding FF parts accordingly.

[Stephen Cherry]

or is the entire cabinet made of maple with an extra piece of cherry covering the end?

I like the approach of a full box, end to end of maple, then a non-structural cherry covering. The last thing you need to do is crack a nice granite counter top because the cabinet settled differently at the ends, and stressed the counter.

[Russell Tribby]

I make a finished end panels exactly like one of the cabinets to which it will be applied. Frame and raised or flat panel. You can then either miter the corner of the face frame and end panel and glue them together, or run a rabbit on the back of the face frame, leaving maybe 1/4" from face to back, then glue the end panel in to the rabbit and flush trim later. For an open book case like your third picture you can take a different approach, but for basic kitchen cabinets with pre-finished maple interiors I find an applied end panel the simplest method. Its easy to construct in the context of making the doors, just size the corresponding FF parts accordingly.

I'd echo Peter's suggestions. Applying a panel and mitering the corner of the ff is exactly what I've done in the past.

[Jay Allen]

although I have no idea what you are talking about when you call this a "mitered folded" face frame. To me it looks like traditional design.

I would say that he is refering to the mitered corner wrapping around from the front to the side. This way there is no "joint" on the side where an "applied" face frame would show one.

[Richard McComas]

My current project is a blood wood kitchen for my wife. I lock miter the end panel to the fame and then put the whole mess on to the cabinet box.

[scott vroom]

Richard, how do you do your ff miters? Do you use splines, dowells, or biscuits to align them? How do you clamp it up? Awhile back I made a prototype miter face frame/end panel from poplar in anticipation of using this method on my kitchen cabinets; I ripped the ff's at 45 on the ts, glued & lined them up by hand, shot a few pin nails, then clamped it up. The edge wasn't perfect and I had to sand a slight easing on the edge. I was hoping to get a sharper edge. I probably need to practice a few more times. Any tips you can pass on?

Thanks

[Richard McComas]

Richard, how do you do your ff miters? Do you use splines, dowells, or biscuits to align them? How do you clamp it up? Awhile back I made a prototype miter face frame/end panel from poplar in anticipation of using this method on my kitchen cabinets; I ripped the ff's at 45 on the ts, glued & lined them up by hand, shot a few pin nails, then clamped it up. The edge wasn't perfect and I had to sand a slight easing on the edge. I was hoping to get a sharper edge. I probably need to practice a few more times. Any tips you can pass on?

Thanks

I use a 45 degree lock miter on my shaper. The photo show how I clamp the corner.

[scott vroom]

I notice you only clamp one direction...interesting.

Very nice work...thx for sharing.

[Richard McComas]

Scott, I forgot to mention that I's hard to get a perfect edge with the lock miter cutter without some minor tear out at the sharp point of the miter. I always run a 1/4 inch round over on the corner for a couple reason. It's gets rid of any tear out, it looks more finished to me anyway and sharp corner can be damage more easily and a rounded corner will hold finish better. As the finish dries it wants to pull back form the edges.

[scott vroom]

Richard, do you use a hand held router for the 1/4" roundover?

How do you like living in Eagle River? My son hitchhiked through there a couple of years ago and said it was incredibly beautiful country.

[Richard McComas]

Richard, do you use a hand held router for the 1/4" roundover?

How do you like living in Eagle River? My son hitchhiked through there a couple of years ago and said it was incredibly beautiful country.

Yes, hand held router. For that and a lot small edge profiles I use a porta cable 310 trim router.

Yes I like living here. I've been here since 1974. My only regret is we don't have any hardwoods (for cabinet and furniture building) up here. I'd love to live in Amish country were you can go right to a mill and get lumber.

[Richard McComas]

Scott, one more piece o advice if you use a lock miter. The way the joint is designed it can trap glue in the joint and can be difficult or darn near impossible to get it together if you use to much glue.

Go easy on the glue, it doesn't take that much.

[scott vroom]

Richard, thanks for all the good tips