Performax 16/32 or 22/44 - Feed Tables Necessary?

[Bill Maloney]

I go to the Klinspor site, and try and order, but all I get is a Euro phone number both on Canadian and US sites..... do you have a link? and tks..

[Will Overton]

I go to the Klinspor site, and try and order, but all I get is a Euro phone number both on Canadian and US sites..... do you have a link? and tks..

You want their retail site.

http://www.woodworkingshop.com/cgi-b...=home_page.htm

[Bill Maloney]

Thanks Will appreciate that. Im new to the drum sanding, so anxious to get my new unit up and running. I have a great woodworking shop so it is a little short in the prep area... Going down middle of next month to pu the unit in Havre.... tks agn....b

[Bill Maloney]

What type of rolls do u use.....paper,cloth, or the hook and loop? DUh... I know but its all new to me.....thanks...b

[John Carlo]

I had the usual problems that others commented on when I first brought home my 22-44. The conveyor belt initially tracked hard left against the tracker no matter how it was adjusted. PerformaX tech support had me reverse the belt and it still tracked hard left. I removed the conveyor table and returned it to the service department where I bought it. Sitting on the workbench supported by its mounting bolts, the belt quickly adjusted to perfect tracking. When I replaced it on my machine it immediately went back to hard left tracking. I played with the mounting bolt tension to no avail. Another call to PerformaX netted me a new belt within two days and after a minor adjustment, the belt has tracked perfectly ever since. You can tell just how perfect your tracking is adjusted by holding a ball point pen to the feed roller immediately adjacent to the edge of the conveyor belt as the roller revolves. The mark left on the roller will very quickly indicate what drift, if any, is occurring. I like the way the ceramic trackers leave a light white residue along the edge of the belt if tracking is off. It shows they are doing their job and gives you a quick indication that readjustment is needed. They trackers should not come into play at all if your adjustment is dead center. Think of the trackers as an extra measure of safety.When properly adjusted, this sander lives up to the hype. You quickly learn how much wood to remove in one pass. Any mill marks from the planer or jointer are removed in one pass. It does a nice job of sanding edges on stock up to four inches wide.
The machine really has to have a dedicated 20 amp circuit. Attached to a 15 amp shared circuit, it easily stalled out. I removed the electrical cover from the motor and found a clear diagram for rewiring the motor for 220 volts. Of course, you would then want to install a separate switch to power the drum as feeding 220 into the conveyor motor would quickly destroy it. It's nice to have the 220 volt option even though the factory warns against it. My sander is working so well that I see no reason to make the change.
Sandpaper changeover is very easy and quick. I like the way the right hand clip helps take up any slack in the wrapping of the abrasive.
I just completed building my oldest daughter a red oak dishwasher cabinet for her new house. All the trim for this was quickly sanded on the 10-22. I'm also finishing up an oak bar and This sander really saves time.
I recently sanded some 16' x 6" red oak boards to box in a beam. using axillary in-feed and out-feed rollers. As the end of the wood came off of the the several rollers I had set up on the in-feed side, the sheer physics behind the length and weight of these boards, transmitted this to the wood under the drum. This made for an extremely small "gouge". A hand held oscillating sander quickly fixed these very slight imperfections which only showed under close examination with a light. I've never seen any sign of this when working with lengths up to the more usual 6' - 10' lengths we commonly encounter in our furniture crafting.

[Will Overton]

What type of rolls do u use.....paper,cloth, or the hook and loop? DUh... I know but its all new to me.....thanks...b

3" wide, cloth backed

[Richard Amabile]

Thanks for all the input on this. After some serious measuring I decided that as much as I want the 22-44 there just isn't enough room in the shop for it. I have a two car garage that is my workshop and right now it will be difficult to even fit the smaller sander in it with all the other machinery that is there. That is a real bummer because every time I buy the "smaller" unit of anything I end up wishing I had purchased the larger one. But, tradeoffs need to be made. So, I went ahead and ordered the 16-32 with infeed and outfeed tables. After reading all the comments I realize that I may or may not really need the tables depending on the work I end up doing with it. But, I find that such tables help on my 735 planer and I am guessing they will help on the sander as well. Yes, I could build a cart and tables. But, at this point in time I would rather spend my time on other projects, especially since the stand comes with the sander. I will probably enclose the bottom of the stand from the shelf up and put a door on it to use for storage. I have done with other machines and it seems to work well.
Thanks again for all the sage advice.

[Jim Becker]

Yes, IMHO, you need either the factory infeed/outfeed tables or "roll-your-own" infeed/outfeed tables for the 22-44 to properly support workpieces. I had the factory versions when I owned the 22-44 (I sold it as it was getting little use for my particular projects and taking up a lot of space) but in hindsight, I would have preferred shop-built versions that could have been folded up/down for storage.