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Thread: finishing questions

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Columbia, MO
    Posts
    28

    finishing questions

    Several questions about finishes on various woods I’m using to making jewelry boxes.

    I’ve heard a good finish for walnut is BLO, followed by amber shellac to add a warm tone, and then a final finish. Does the shellac have to be de-waxed? Is paste wax suitable as a final finish? I’m looking for a satin finish, and since it’s for a jewelry box so it doesn’t need to be overly durable.

    For finishing figured maple, I’m planning to use aniline dye to add some contrast to the figure or eyes, then BLO, and then possibly shellac. Doe this sound reasonable? Again, does the shellac need to be de-waxed?

    On mahogany, I’ve heard BLO will bring our the luster in the wood. What should I put on after the BLO?

    Is there anything special I need to know for finishing spalted maple? Seems I read where spalted woods will soak up more of the finish than unspalted wood.

    Also, is it okay to store Watco in a glass jar? I found it very difficult to pour it out of the original can without slopping it all over the place. What about shellac? I know you can’t store it in a metal container since it will react with the metal.

    Thanks in advance for all your help.

    George

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    N Illinois
    Posts
    4,602

    Dewax?

    Shellac doesn't have to be dewaxed (unless you are topcoating w polyurethane) but it is a good idea. It helps adhesion. Small tip: you can Dewax shellac by simply pouring through a strainer prior to use. Most flakes are dewaxed,
    Jerry

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