Electrical box cutouts in sheetrock?

[Greg Urwiller]

What's the best way to mark and cut sheetrock for the electrical boxes, when the receptacles/switches are installed? Are the receptacles/switches tightened up to the sheetrock or the box? Thanks. Greg

[David G Baker]

I try to tighten my electrical switches and receptacles to the boxes but it isn't always possible. Frequently I have to use the yellow plastic spacers between the fixture and the box because the box is mounted deeper than it should be.
To cut the Sheetrock for boxes I measure from the floor and from right and left, then mark the Sheetrock and cut the material with a skill saw. It takes some practice to get it right every time but it is much faster and less of a hassle than coating the box with lipstick and pressing the Sheetrock against the box to make a mark on the rear of the Sheetrock prior to cutting.
I have also used Rotozip tools with the correct blade and rough measurements to cut out openings for boxes when the Sheetrock is fastened to the wall with a nail or two. This is okay with new Sheetrock but with old Sheetrock you will have a dust storm of powder flying everywhere. The older Sheetrock may have asbestos in the board or in the mud or both.

[Mark Duksta]

I've done it both ways that David describes. I like the lipstick trick. It's easier if you have help. The Rotozip works well but it takes some practice.

Mark

[Don Jarvie]

They do make jumbo size outlet covers to cover any mistake. In fact, all mine are jumbo.

[Greg Urwiller]

The electrician did all the electrical last week so I was going to hang sheetrock today. The boxes are set out from the stud, looks like they're all caught on the depth hook on the box. But they're still deep for 1/2" sheetrock. Of course the first cutout I did was a little wide all around so the receptacle ears just barely catch on the bottom, no such luck on the top. I took the switches loose, caught the bottom ears, and tightened them down on the sheetrock, spaced the top about the same, and put the plate back on. Everything seems tight. I should put some of the spacers on the top though. On everything else I measured, then traced around a spare box, so now everything is fitting nice and tight around the box. Even though the box is a little deep, now I can at least pull the ears of the receptacle down onto the sheetrock. Thanks. Greg

[jason margeson]

Rotozip.

For a FYI, the mickeymouse ears are actually spacing washers. So if your a little wide, and the ears arent touching on the face of the DW, remove the mickey ears and put them on 6-32 screw. This will give the recpt a solid attachment to the box

[Chris Matus]

Rotozip all the way. Excellent for recessed lighting cans too. The vacuum attachment accessory is very good and will get 99% of the dust.

[Brad Sperr]

I like using a rotozip with the pilot point bit. I partially attach the drywall right over the junction box with an "x" marking the center of the box, rout out the interior of the box with the rotozip, and then finish up the cut around the edges of the box with a razor knife. Trying to rout around the box with the rotozip will make a mess and leave your cut out too big, although it works fine for recessed lighting where the trim will cover it. Just be sure to push your wires deep enough into the box to where they don't get damaged by the rotozip bit.

[Jim Kirkpatrick]

This works well:

http://www.blindmark.com/

[David Helm]

I guess I'm old fashioned. Carefully measure from bottom and side, then cut with utility knife. It's still the easiest and most accurate way to do it.

[Jim Kirkpatrick]

Oh I dunno.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXA_s...layer_embedded

[Dan Friedrichs]

That is really cool, Jim.

On ATOH the other night, they showed a sheet of carbon-paper-looking-stuff that they put over the outlet box, then brought the sheetrock up to it, and when they tapped it, it left an ink mark showing the box outline. Kinda like the lipstick trick, but much less messy.

[David Epperson]

I guess I'm old fashioned. Carefully measure from bottom and side, then cut with utility knife. It's still the easiest and most accurate way to do it.

I've built one house, added on to three, and remodeled a few more. This has been the way I did it every time. Power tools and sheetrock just make too much dust for my liking. Breathing mud dust just about put me in the hospital a few times when I thought the job was small enough not to need a mask.

[Chris Padilla]

Do a quick measurement...mark an X on the board...go at it with a rotozip. Done.

[Greg Urwiller]

Right now I'm just measuring as accurately as I can, marking the sheetrock, tracing around a box, and cutting it out. So far I've gotten pretty much right there on all the boxes. A nice tight fit on everything so far. It's kind of a pain where the switches/outlets are already in, but it's not working too bad so far. Just time consuming. The contractor did the ceiling since he had to insulate. Talked to the electrician tonight, said the contractor used a roto-zip and nicked the wires on 3 of the six boxes on the ceiling. I took a couple of plates off and there was no finesse used up there!!! Greg