Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Watco Danish Oil and Mahoney's Walnut Oil

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Forked River, NJ
    Posts
    31

    Watco Danish Oil and Mahoney's Walnut Oil

    I have decided to use either Watco Danish Oil or Mahoney's Walnut Oil on my turning projects. However; I do not want to darked the wood too much. I'm also not sure of how much of a difference there is between the two oils.

    I plan on using the immersion technique about two or three times for the turning.

    Is there a big difference between the two oils? Which is preferred? I will probably order a gallon of either one.

    Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving,

    Gerald

  2. #2
    Danish oil is a blend of varnish resins, oil, and mineral spirits. I am not sure of the makeup of the walnut oil, but my impression is they are two entirely different animals.

    On ordering a gallon, be aware that the Danish oil may have a shorter shelf life once opened. Unless you are going to be turning and finishing a lot, and I mean a lot, I wouldn't do that. The money you save in getting the gallon may be quickly wasted in hardened finish in the can.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Goodland, Kansas
    Posts
    22,605
    I use Mahoney's walnut oil, Minwax Antique Oil and Danish Oil. All will darken the wood. I tried the immersion method and for hobby turning it is not worth the effort. I get just as good a finish by applying the coats as per the can as with the immersion.
    Bernie

    Never put off until tomorrow what you can do the day after tomorrow.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.



  4. #4
    The Watco is a finish oil and resins in a mineral spirits base. Mahoney's walnut oil is pressed from the husks and leaves of the walnut. I would use the Watco, or better yet, wipe on poly finishes for furniture, and 'artistic' pieces, and the Mahoney's walnut oil for food use items. Watco is dry to the touch in 24 or less hours, and about 90% cured in a week. Walnut oil takes about a week to cure out, and exposure to heat (a 60 watt light bulb) and ultra violet light, speed up the process.

    Both can be used, but I just am uncomfortable with putting a finish on a piece, that would be very bad for me if I ate it straight from the can.

    robo hippy

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Texas Hill Country, USA
    Posts
    1,967
    I agree with the other posts. The only thing that the two finishes have in common is "oil" in the name. I decide what to use as a finish depending on the what it is that I am turning. I don't have one specific finish that I use for everything no matter what it is.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Rochester, NY
    Posts
    365
    I haven't used walnut oil but have used lots of Watco Danish Oil and Minwax Antique Oil (MAO). The Watco and the MAO will gel up once they are opened so I spray in some argon to push out most of the air. I buy the argon in a spray can of wine preserver or Bloxygen. This works very well to preserve the oil or varnish. These spray bottles last a long time and are well worth the $10 or so that they cost.

    My preference for finishing my bowls is the MAO since it dries much faster, hardens and builds much better than the Watco since it has a higher percentage of varnish. The MAO will darken the wood but not as much as the Watco.

    Cheers,
    David

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Forked River, NJ
    Posts
    31

    Watco or Mahoneys Oil

    Just when I think I have a finish all decided on, I go and search the forums for more info. My head hurts reading all of that info.

    I have a little jar of Watco Danish Oil left, so I will use that up. I am going to try Mahoneys and MAO to see what I like. I think I will also pass on the immersion idea.

    All great advice here as usual and I thank you all very much for the suggestions and replies.

    Gerald

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Mount Sterling, KY
    Posts
    2,504
    Quote Originally Posted by Gerald McGrantham View Post
    Just when I think I have a finish all decided on, I go and search the forums for more info. My head hurts reading all of that info.

    I have a little jar of Watco Danish Oil left, so I will use that up. I am going to try Mahoneys and MAO to see what I like. I think I will also pass on the immersion idea.

    All great advice here as usual and I thank you all very much for the suggestions and replies.

    Gerald
    An overall great post. SMC is a great place. I and probably we all learn something from it everyday. A lot in this short post about various finishes that I didn't know. Thank you Gerald for posting and everyone else for answering his concerns.
    ____________________________________________
    JD at J&J WoodSmithing
    Owingsville, Kentucky

    "The best things in life are not things."

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Suwanee (near Atlanta), GA
    Posts
    842
    Mahoney's Walnut oil leaves a very flat look. I don't think you can make it shine. If that is the look you are going for it does great. Especially good on items that you want a food finish on. That said, Mike Mahoney does not put any finish on a bowl he or his family is going to eat from.

    I generally use AO on almost all of my turnings. It is a little more effort but you can get a nice shine if that is what you want.
    Last edited by Mike Peace; 11-25-2010 at 9:38 PM. Reason: add some items.
    God is great and life is good!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •