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Thread: Favorite way to remove rust...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    325

    Favorite way to remove rust...

    Hey folks,

    Well, after more then 2.5 years I finally got my tools out of long term storage in Alaska. All the effort in protecting from the salty island air in SE Alaska wasn't successful. I will now have a much smaller shop, not setting up the majority of things including my Woodsucker DC (love that thing) as I am renting.

    To the point whats your favorite ways to remove rust. I am always interested if there is a faster more efficient way of accomplishing a task. So let the verbage fly folks.

    Here are a few pics of the carnage.



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Porter,TX
    Posts
    1,523
    Wire wheel on angle grinder,but safety glasses is a must----Carroll

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Carroll Courtney View Post
    Wire wheel on angle grinder,but safety glasses is a must----Carroll
    Only on surfaces that don't matter. The wire wheel will remove more material then you expect and flat surfaces won't be flat anymore. BoShield makes a Rust Remove that I recently picked up, I haven't tried it yet but have heard good results. Also do a google search for electrolysis, lots of old iron that gets restored gets stripped of paint and rust via electrolysis.

  4. #4
    naval jelly, sanding pad, elbow grease, patience.....

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Hill Country Texas
    Posts
    941
    That doesn't look too bad. Some Rust Free and gray 3M pads should fix you up.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Hill Country Texas
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    941
    Quote Originally Posted by Logan William View Post
    Only on surfaces that don't matter. The wire wheel will remove more material then you expect and flat surfaces won't be flat anymore. BoShield makes a Rust Remove that I recently picked up, I haven't tried it yet but have heard good results. Also do a google search for electrolysis, lots of old iron that gets restored gets stripped of paint and rust via electrolysis.
    Its Rust Free. Works good but make sure you are in a well ventilated area or be prepared for some burning nose hairs. Also, don't leave it on more than a minute or two or the metal turns black... which is why you use the grey 3M pads.

  7. Barkeeper's friend and a scotch pad.


  8. #8
    I use BoShield and a greed 3m pad. It works pretty well for me.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    325
    I am loving it folks as I have restricted myself over this past period of time on site visitation, to depressing not being able to make dust in a meaningful fashion until now...

    Thanks,
    Kyle

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Cache Valley, Utah
    Posts
    1,723
    That looks like mostly surface rust. I would go after it with a single edge razor blade scraper first (it will remove a lot of the rust) followed by medium steel wool and WD40 or something similar.

  11. I'm not big on WD40 as a protectant. It just oils things up and makes a mess, IMHO. Heck, the stuff barely works to lubricate rusty bolts.

    I use a coat or two of Johnson's Paste Wax over any exposed surfaces once it's all cleaned up and spit shined. Puts a good hard protectant layer over it and will not transfer to wood.
    Last edited by Scott Hildenbrand; 11-07-2010 at 10:26 AM.

  12. #12
    I have very good success with a product named Evapo-Rust. It's meant to submerge parts in, so you would have to dam off a horizontal surface with clay then flood it like a rice paddy.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    O'Fallon IL
    Posts
    492
    Quote Originally Posted by Carroll Courtney View Post
    Wire wheel on angle grinder,but safety glasses is a must----Carroll
    I'd go just a little more elaborate--a knotted wire cup wheel on the angle grinder. Works very fast, doesn't throw wires nearly as much.

    Kirk

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Norwalk, CA
    Posts
    61
    Why doesn't anybody use CLR?

  15. #15
    Scott, You meant to say "protectant" not "protestant", right?

    I use Topsaver from Empire Manufacturing. With more heavy rust I normally have to repeat it a few days later, as it draws moisture out of the deeper poors and actually promotes a new layer of mild surface rust which is easily removed. After Topsaver you have to apply some type of sealant to keep out moisture. To this date I have found NOTHING which is safe for wood which will work for more than a few days. Empire claims their Table Top Lubricant does the trick but I still get new rust in a few days. I have tried just about everything. A friend recently told me to melt beeswax into the pores and buff it out....haven't tried this yet.

    To make the rust removal easier I use gray or red non-abrasive velcro backed synthetic pads on my Festool Rotex DA sander. I don't get scratches and save my arms. An RA sander works also, but takes a bit longer. I live on an island in the Gulf of Mexico 1/2 mile from the ocean.

    Has anyone tried the beeswax method??
    Gregg Feldstone

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