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Thread: Spraying waterlox

  1. #1

    Spraying waterlox

    Just finished making the racking for a wine cellar I am installing for a client. This is something I have never done before. The finish I am using is Waterlox on cherry. This racking will hold 1000 plus bottles. Can I spray Waterlox with a HVLP sprayer? I have never used a sprayer before so I am completely in the dark as to the applications suitable for this type of spayer. It will take me forever and a day to do it by hand. Any info will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    You can spray just about anything. A HVLP will deliver more product with less over spray than a siphon gun, but there will be overspray. Could you post a picture of your project?
    Phil in Big D
    The only difference between a taxidermist and the taxman, is that the taxidermist leaves the skin. Mark Twain

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Tinsen View Post
    Just finished making the racking for a wine cellar I am installing for a client. This is something I have never done before. The finish I am using is Waterlox on cherry. This racking will hold 1000 plus bottles. Can I spray Waterlox with a HVLP sprayer? I have never used a sprayer before so I am completely in the dark as to the applications suitable for this type of spayer. It will take me forever and a day to do it by hand. Any info will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
    i don't waterlox but i do use M.L.Campbell lacquer . I use HVLP sprayer i use 30 lbs of air Very little over spray with the 30 lbs. I would try the waterlox with the same amount of air ? good luck

  4. #4
    Waterlox sprays great but I'd think about applying the first coat with a brush. Just get it thoroughly wet and let it dry, second coat gets sprayed.

    Are you finishing in place or in shop?

    Do you have a real respirator?

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    You can spray Waterlox or any other varnish with no problem as long as your gun and finish viscosity are matched. The real question is whether or not you really want to spray a slow-dying oil based finish...it can be a very messy job due to the sticky overspray issue. Spraying is best for fast drying finishes...lacquer, shellac, water bornes, etc., because they don't have the sticky overspray issue. Most overspray with those finishes is dry before it floats to the ground.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #6
    Tried to upload pics but it keeps telling me it failed. I would be spraying in the shop. I am more than willing to invest in a respirator. I also have to purchase the spayer. It is very difficult to get into all the nooks and crannies with a rag, brush or foam pad. I just thought spaying would be quicker. I already have many hours into this project and was just hoping to expedite the process even though my shop really isn't equiped for this. I will set up a ventillation system(fan in window!) and set up plastic to form a spray booth type area. If I do decide to do this do I ned to thin the waterlox? Any other concerns. Thanks again.

  7. #7
    Likely no need to thin but the real answer comes from the equipment you use.

    I suggest fast and furious brushing for the first coat only because it can be better at getting coverage than spraying. You don't have to spend a lot of time making it perfect, just get enough finish on all surfaces to provide a seal and fill effect. Add a bit of color tint to the first coat if you want - latter coats not. Get it all wetted out but with no drools. Let this harden a couple of days before proceeding.

    Something like a rack with lots of different planes, edges and lots of open space will be hard to get full even coverage when spraying. Getting the first coat a 100% covering on all parts (by whatever method) assures that later spray coats have a fully filled, sort of homogeneous, surface to lay on.

    If this were a table top you'd want to sand out and apply enough coats to get a flawless finish. For a huge wine rack/cellar I'd think the absolute perfection of the finish would be of a different level and what would be acceptable and better is different from a table top.

  8. #8
    I uploaded to a facebook page I am starting. You can see some picks. This is just a few of the racks.


    http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...46582298715061
    Last edited by Paul Tinsen; 11-30-2010 at 9:59 AM.

  9. #9
    Is that made up of sub-assemblies or is it all one piece now?
    It'd be lots better to have in smaller pieces. I'd want to be able to turn the racks to get to all sides without standing on my head, lay on my side, etc. Hanging a smaller unit sideways at chest/belly height would let you get most of it without contortions.

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Learning to spray on a large, many, many hours to build project, is a good way to make you throw the sprayer away in frustration...

    Don't learn on a project this involved, and this important.

    Spraying is for a faster... when all is-said-and-done know one should be able to tell if the finish was brushed, wiped or sprayed on the project.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Tinsen View Post
    I uploaded to a facebook page I am starting. You can see some picks. This is just a few of the racks.


    http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...46582298715061

    Wow! Nice rack!

    Yeah, what Scott said. I would not learn how to spray on a project like that. Try it on some simple shelves or something before you haggle with that monster. Although I wouldn't want to brush or rub that whole piece, it still may be your best bet if never sprayed. Trust me, I'm glad I practiced a lot before I sprayed my first real project.
    I'm a Joe of all trades. It's a first, it'll catch on.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Henry Ambrose View Post
    Is that made up of sub-assemblies or is it all one piece now?
    It'd be lots better to have in smaller pieces. I'd want to be able to turn the racks to get to all sides without standing on my head, lay on my side, etc. Hanging a smaller unit sideways at chest/belly height would let you get most of it without contortions.
    There are several individual racks. A couple single rows and up to six rows in a unit. The curved corners are 4 racks assembled into a single unit. 15 individual units all together. Well over 2500 individual pieces!

  13. #13
    Thanks everyone. The reason I had considered spraying is the client is getting a little impatient. I honestly had little idea how long it would take me to complete the racks. I can't use a brush there just isn't enough room so it is all going to have to be applied with a staining rag. I have finished two racks with a rag and it took a couple hours for each. I quess I will just suck it up and do it by hand. Definitly need to bid this type of job better next time! The good thing is the client has stopped by and loves the work so he should be willing to wait for a good finish.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    Central Indiana
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    456
    If speed is in order, I would not hesitate to spray a sealing coat of dewaxed shellac, let it dry, and then a finish coat of waterlox. You can get some practice spraying some random pieces in your shop, but the spraying on a piece with this many nooks and crannies will save you a lot of time.

    I've never sprayed (or even brushed) waterlox, but have sprayed quite a bit of WB acrylic enamels and polyurethanes. It saves a ton of time and leaves a nice finish, especially on pieces with a lot of detail or nooks and crannies. Definitely invest in a good respirator! I have had good luck with the Harbor Freight HVLP gun that comes with a pressure regulator (I think they've recently changed the item number from the one I bought). This site has a great "how to" article on tuning up the gun: http://www.purplesagetradingpost.com...Pspraygun.html .

    Good luck, whatever way you decide to go.

  15. #15
    Which Waterlox product are you speaking of? If you're going to wipe, and this is your first experience, I suggest you use Waterlox's Original Sealer. It's formulated for easy wiping.

    I do suggest that you spray a couple coats of 1-1.5# shellac as a sealer. This will save you a lot of coats and time to get the Waterlox to an even sheen.

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