Do you use ts blade guard?

[everett lowell]

I was wondering how many of you guys use tablesaw blade guards on a regular basis?I used to have a small tabletop saw and abuot four years ago got a 10'' contracters saw,and never took the blade guard out of the bag! Am i being foolish? Im so used to working without a guard or splitter i hate the thought of putting them on.

[Dick Parr]

I have removed the guard with the intent of adding an overarm guard that hasn't happened yet. But the first thing I did after removing the guard was to add a splitter with kick-back cawls. Unless I am using a sled, the splitter is on.

[Gord Graff]

Hello Everett,

The guard I can generally live without, proper blade height when cutting wood usually restricts the amount of exposed blade that can get you into trouble. I will say this, since using the Excalibur blade guard I find it somewhat more comforting knowing that the blade is covered.

I won’t do without a splitter though, no doubt the best safety device used on a table saw today except for the grey matter between one’s ears.

All the best
Gord

[Brian Hale]

Mine went on the saw as soon as i got it. Spent about 30 minutes getting it set right, cut some scrap strips to test it, took it off and hung it on the wall.

The idea of an over arm gaurd sounds like a good idea but i'm looking for a nice riving (sp?) knife first

Brian

[Dan Mages]

My grandfather lost two fingers because he thought it would be okay to run the saw without the blade guard. It will always be on there. Does anoyne know of an overhead guard that can be used on a mobile contractor's saw?

Dan

[Ted Daigle]

I'm with Gord. A splitter with kickback cawls is the bare minimum for safety. I've got a TS with the standard plastic blade gaurd. I keep it on although it's kind of a pain. What really makes me feel somewhat safer though is the splitter with the kickback cawls.

[David LaRue]

Here is what I use:



I have since added dust collection to the setup. It is much much easier to use the overarm guard than the stock one. Worth the investment.

[Mike K]

I use my TS guard religiously. I did take it off for some dados. After assembling some cabinets I realized I was one back short. Removed the dado and installed the regualr blade. Since it was the last cut of the day I did not reinstall the guard.
As the 1/4 plywood was going through I got some kickback and the plywood damn near took off my finger.
As a result I always take the time to reinstall the guard.

Mike

[Gord Graff]

Hi All,

No doubt that there will be many that advocate the use of a splitter and a guard, (I'm one of them) either stock or aftermarket but there will be some that refuse to use either.

To that I will say this; my father who stood in front of a table saw for nearly 60 years as a professional carpenter and cabinet maker used neither splitter or guard and he never had a problem...................go figure that one out.

All the best
Gord

[Jim Becker]

My setup is similar to Gord's with an Excalibur overarm guard that I use when I'm comfortable with the setups, etc. While I like the safety aspects, frankly, the dust collection is more important to me. There is a lot of material that comes off the top of the blade on through cuts and that's where these guards shine. But like Gord, I never work without my splitter (a Biesemeyer in my case) unless the type of cut does not allow it. I would prefer a riving knife over the static splitter for a number of reasons, but one cannot retrofit a US-style saw for such an animal and the Euro sliding saw I was planning on is much farther in the future for reasons I cannot go into presently. (Purely some economic decisions relative to priorities)

Sadly, the splitter/guard that comes with most US-style table saws is too hard to take off and on (non-through cuts require it's removal) so most folks just never put them back on after the first removal. Ease of use really counts a lot when it comes to things like this...

[Stefan Antwarg]

When I first bought my table saw, I installed the guard. Used it for a few weeks. Took it off and on several times for dados. Then just left it off. So no, I do not use a guard.

Stefan

[Mark Singer]

No ,,I never have . Just Board Buddies and being careful

[JayStPeter]

I regularly use a splitter and an overhead guard (old Excalibur that is the same as the Exactor). I find the removable splitter to be great. I use it all the time. I have removed the anti-kickback pawls and even use it with my sleds. Only removed for non-through cuts (i.e. dado).
I'm not a big fan of the overhead blade guard. Once the cuts get thinner (i.e. < 5"), it just gets in the way and seems to make the cut more dangerous. Plus, the DC on this unit is next to useless. Also, when I cut 8' long pieces, the offcuts get caught in it instead of sliding off the outfeed table onto the floor. Another case where it is more dangerous than not having it.
I had to take a year off of woodworking thanks to a job and location change. Since then the TS seems a little more dangerous than it used to. I like having the guard there, but will probably remove it as I feel it is equally negative as positive. I'm not sure if another brand or style of guard would do any better. I think part of the problem with this one is that it is sort of clunky to move away when I don't want it there.
I really like the looks of the one provided on the SawStop saw. It looks like a nice low profile guard that won't get in the way during use and removes easily. Hopefully, some aftermarket mfrs. will take notice and provide something similar for the rest of us. BTW, I know SS has a riving knife mechanism, but the removable splitter/guard combo could easily be adapted to other saws (and even include useful DC).

Jay

[Gord Graff]

Hi Jim,

I would argue the point that splitters are not that time consuming to put on or take off. I have over the years made several splitters for my saw and in each case the splitter takes only seconds to install or remove. If some out there are not happy with their stock splitters, make one that suits you.

With all due respect Mark, “being careful” don’t cut it in my book. Last year I was ripping a piece of 4/4, ¼ sawn white oak with a moisture content of 7% and the saw kerf closed right behind the blade while ripping just before the splitter could engage the piece………………….scared the crap out of me. Lucky for me the saw I was using was a 5hp Unisaw and I was able to force the piece to engage the splitter.

All the best
Gord

[Lloyd Robins]

I have a Beismeyer splitter, and it works well. I also reviewed some old Badger Pond files and built (had built) an overhead unit. The ones that I saw had some pretty heavy duty blade covers, but I just have one that keeps my fingers away from the blade and allows for some dust collection. It cost about $100 and $80 of that was for a welder. If you weld you can cut the cost way down.