Enamel or Latex for kitchen cabs??

[Butch Butler]

I am in the process of updating our 70s vintage kitchen cabinets. They are built-in-place with plywood doors. The cabinet body is in good shape and adequate for our needs, but the doors scream 1970. So, I'm building frame and panel doors to replace them.
The current finish is clear poly over birch plywood...darkened with age. My wife wants to paint them & I have no problem with that. What I need help with is the type of paint to use. I like the durability of semi-gloss enamel, but the drying time will cause me problems as the kitchen will be in use during the process. I know that Latex is a viable alternative, but are modern Latex paints durable enough for daily use? I will probably spray the doors outside or in the shop since there are quite a few of them, but how should I deal with painting the interior and exterior of the carcass and maintain at least partial usability??
Thanks, Butch

[Clisby Clark]

try Rustscat or Insul-x Cabinet Coat. I know Rustscat is made by Coronado. Not sure about Cabiniet Coat. I've sprayed Rustscat with good results. I've never useed Cabinet Coat, but I've read lots of good things about it. Make sure you scuff up the old surface well and use a good primer. Good luck!

[Neal Clayton]

it has to be enamel, but there are water based acrylic enamels these days. will probably have to spray them to get as smooth a result as you'd get with an oil enamel, but they exist.

[Scott Holmes]

Cleaning them prior to painting them will be VERY important.

Warm soapy water. Next clean with TSP. Then clean with mineral spirits. Light scuff sand and you are ready to paint. Oil based are more durable and need no top coat.

[Mike Hollingsworth]

Oil Base is soooo much easier to put on a smooth finish. I keep a primer brush wrapped in a baggie in my freezer, stays wet for months.

Outside is another thing. Latex is more elastic and cracks less. (2 coats)
Waterbase on waterbase needs no sanding for adhesion. Oil needs a scuff.

[Butch Butler]

it has to be enamel, but there are water based acrylic enamels these days. will probably have to spray them to get as smooth a result as you'd get with an oil enamel, but they exist.

Thanks to all for the replies.

Neal - I have a conventional spray rig/compressor. Can I spray the acrylic enamel as I would an oil-based finish? Is the setup/pressure different?
Thanks, Butch

[Phil Phelps]

Thanks to all for the replies.

Neal - I have a conventional spray rig/compressor. Can I spray the acrylic enamel as I would an oil-based finish? Is the setup/pressure different?
Thanks, Butch

If you use water base, you'll have to thin the paint too much for my liking. Oil enamel is the best for kitchens. The chemists are not quite there with the water base stuff and what you brush, it won't lay out like oil base. I'd clean like Scott suggests, then roll and brush the carcass and shelves. You can thin the enamel, (a little at a time), to get it to atomize properly through your gun. If you have panel doors, run a thin bead of caulk on all joints and wipe with a damp rag. Anywhere wood meets wood you need to caulk or fill. I would prime and then sand with 220, then use at least two top coats. You'll need to use 1/4" material to make 6x6 inch squares and drive one inch brads through at the corners. Two of these will be used to hold a door while you spray one side. By holding the edges with the sides of your fingers, flip it over and spray the edges and face. They need to set in place until dry. Remember, alkyd overspray is wet, wet, and will drift all over the surroundings. Be prepared. I like a satin finish much better than semi-gloss. Use the top of the line paint from a real paint store. Benjamin Moore, Pratt and Lambert, Serwin Williams, etc. No box stores.

[Steve Schoene]

[QUOTE=Phil Phelps;1577067]If you use water base, you'll have to thin the paint too much for my liking.

The waterborne paints you buy at local paint stores or the big box stores are specially thickened to be brushable. But, there are plenty of waterborne finishes that are specifically designed for spraying. Target and Enduro are some manufacturers. These will need no thinning.

I agree oil based enamel will be more durable, but the longer dry time means they are much more difficult to spray without real spray facilities, yet alone on site.

[Phil Phelps]

[QUOTE=Steve Schoene;1577071]

If you use water base, you'll have to thin the paint too much for my liking.

The waterborne paints you buy at local paint stores or the big box stores are specially thickened to be brushable. But, there are plenty of waterborne finishes that are specifically designed for spraying. Target and Enduro are some manufacturers. These will need no thinning.

I agree oil based enamel will be more durable, but the longer dry time means they are much more difficult to spray without real spray facilities, yet alone on site.

I just can't see brushing water base anything on cabinets. I don't see where the dry time makes it more difficult. It will take longer, I assume, in most cases because of the need for room. There are times that the choices we make are due to our limitations. Not everyone has an option to spray. But, again, I think water base is a poor choice for cabinets.

[Steve Schoene]

Dry time matters because unless you have strong air flow pulling overspray out of the space it can mist on to still wet surfaces. In addition, it can really make a mess of surrounding area.

I certainly wouldn't brush on waterborne finishes, but I would consider spraying waterborne that had the right viscosity to spray efficiently, without having to worry about flammability and other concerns of solvent finishes. Not as durable overall as oil based to be sure, but many find the better quality varieties to be quite satisfactory.

[Chris Fournier]

Cleaning them prior to painting them will be VERY important.

Warm soapy water. Next clean with TSP. Then clean with mineral spirits. Light scuff sand and you are ready to paint. Oil based are more durable and need no top coat.

Why have you outlined this three step process Scott? I am unsure of what kind of contamination requires warm soapy water, then TSP and finally MS.

[Phil Phelps]

Dry time matters because unless you have strong air flow pulling overspray out of the space it can mist on to still wet surfaces. In addition, it can really make a mess of surrounding area.

I certainly wouldn't brush on waterborne finishes, but I would consider spraying waterborne that had the right viscosity to spray efficiently, without having to worry about flammability and other concerns of solvent finishes. Not as durable overall as oil based to be sure, but many find the better quality varieties to be quite satisfactory.

Yes, Steve. All the above are good points, which is why I discourage spraying without a an exhaust system. And a box fan with solvent products is not safe. One still must contend with the cabinet carcass and or face frame if spraying. Brushing oil and spraying waterborne products won't work either. And, of course, spraying part and brushing part will result in two different finishes of gloss. Butch doesn't have an exhaust system, which will make spraying the doors a lot of extra work. I think he should give up the carcass for a few days and paint the interior casing and shelves with oil base paint. Then, depending on how much room he has in the garage or shop, spray as many doors as he can, out doors, and transfer them to the shop to dry. It may take two weeks, but it can be done. This is a real project, not a weekend transformation.

[Scott Holmes]

You could skip the soapy water. May people use soapy water, then MS. Guess I got carried away with the directions... TSP will clean better than the soapy water. I would suggest it over the soapy water.

You need to get the water soluable grime off; then the wax, grease and other non water soluable stuff off.

[Phil Phelps]

[QUOTE=Scott Holmes;

You need to get the water soluable grime off; then the wax, grease and other non water soluable stuff off.[/QUOTE]

This is exactly right. Mineral Spirits, (paint thinner), won't cut through water soluable grime.
If TSP does both, then okay. I've never used it. I've always used soap and water, then a degreaser,(paint thinner). Something like Passo or Liquid Sand will cut grease and also prep, (degloss), the "alkyd" finish. Either way, it must be clean or you're wasting your time.

[Chris Fournier]

TSP is a degreaser. Soapy water and mineral spirits are both redundant if you're gonna use TSP to prep a "residential" cabinet surface for painting.