Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 29 of 29

Thread: Enamel or Latex for kitchen cabs??

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Tomball, TX (30 miles NNW Houston)
    Posts
    2,747
    I use the mineral spirits cleaning to get all the TSP off the surface. Leaving a trace of TSP is not good.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  2. #17

    Basic/Acid

    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Holmes View Post
    I use the mineral spirits cleaning to get all the TSP off the surface. Leaving a trace of TSP is not good.

    I'm in no way a chemist but I don't think that your practice of removing TSP "traces" with mineral spirits makes too much sense. On a PH level, TSP is basic. To neutralize TSP that may be left on a surface after cleaning it would be common practice to use a mild acidic solution - say vinegar diluted with water not mineral spirits.

  3. #18
    Don't like the look of sprayed, prefer brushed myself.

    Gotta use 2-3 thinner coats and sand between, but it can look like a million bucks.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    5,582
    I used the oil based enamel for our kitchen cabinets when I was operating on a budget and couldn't afford to redo everything. It tourned out great. Went on very smooth and with a good brush it didn't leave brush marks (being very careful to paint with the grain of course and then not to over brush it. Second coat went right on with minimal scuffing to clean up surface defects (dust, etc). It is very easy to keep clean and relatively hard - much better surface than a latex.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Mount Pleasant, SC
    Posts
    39
    So many great suggestions and what a super discussion! Thanks, everyone......Now I have another little question - When my sister found out I was doing my kitchen, she decided to tweak hers a bit.....she was OK until it came time to paint the knobs.....little brother here, unfortunately stepped in to help her out. She has 64 ceramic knobs to match to her cabinet color. She is using Sherwin-Williams ProClassic "smooth enamel finish for trim & doors", which is an Interior acrylic latex. Question is....Can I spray the knobs with my siphon gun??....I'm not equipped for HVLP, unfortunately. If so, how much do I thin & with what for best results???.....Thanks, Butch.

  6. #21

    Spraying knobs

    You certainly can use your gun to spray knobs if you set yourself up to do so. I put long screws in the back of the knobs and then make a holder by cutting kerfs in a piece of ply. Slide the srews into the kerfs and hang until dry. A couple light coats are required to avoid sags and runs.

    BUT!

    I'm not certain that you can get any sort of decent adhesion to ceramic, in fact I highly doubt it. I would do a test but ceramic has a high gloss baked on finish and I don't think that your finish will stick to it.

    I think that your sister will need to spring for new hardware.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Tomball, TX (30 miles NNW Houston)
    Posts
    2,747
    You may want to spray a light coat of shellac before you paint it. Zinsser BIN is a good primer coat. Shellac will stick to just about anything.

    Chris makes a good point about the ceramic. I think even the shellac with paint over it may be easily scratched or damaged.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    6,983
    She has 64 ceramic knobs to match to her cabinet color. She is using Sherwin-Williams ProClassic "smooth enamel finish for trim & doors", which is an Interior acrylic latex. Question is....Can I spray the knobs with my siphon gun??....I'm not equipped for HVLP, unfortunately. If so, how much do I thin & with what for best results???.....
    Clean the ceramic with soap & water and/or dish washing liquid to clean off any oils and grease.
    Allow to dry completly.
    Go back and wipe down the ceramic with Xylol <- be sure to wear eye protection and use gloves & have plenty of ventilation.

    Never use Mineral Spirits under XIM. MS will leave an oily residue that will prevent the XIM from sticking.

    W/out touching the ceramic, prime with XIM (google it for a local source).
    XIM comes in both brush on and spray cans.
    Follow the directions on the XIM website and/or can as far as dry times before a topcoat.

    Shellac based products, such as B*I*N, only perform fair on ceramic.
    (if you were doing ceramic tile, I'd recommend using B*I*N on the grout though. B*I*N is ablut the only thing I know of that will adhere to the (silicone based) grout sealer.)

    IIRC, Zinsser recommeded their Bullseye 1*2*3 (acrylic) primer on ceramic.
    I don't believe 1*2*3 comes in a spray can though.

    Epoxy based materials can also be applied directly to glazed ceramic.
    There's a wide assortment of spray epoxies. I believe I'd clean the same as for XIM & possibly chuck each knob into an electric drill and run a piece of 400 wet/dry over the ceramic to give it a little "tooth".

    Painting over glazed ceramic isn't difficut at all, IF it's prepared properly.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Sammamish, WA
    Posts
    7,630
    If you use a really high quality latex, it will hold up OK but still not as well as oil based. I often use water based and spray it with an HVLP gun, without thinning. It's just a matter of the correct settings and pressure. An old-fashioned gun would require thinning and you'd lose durability. I'd suggest something like Benjamin Moore Natura Zero VOC,it runs $50/gallon but very durable with no fumes to worry about.



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

  10. #25
    I'm a little late on this thread, but have really good experience using Insl-X Cabinet Coat on kitchen cabinets using a high density foam roller. You can paint cabinets in place and achieve a "sprayed on" type of finish. You can find this paint at stores that sell Benjamin Moore.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Tampa Bay Area of Florida
    Posts
    867
    Quote Originally Posted by Clisby Clark View Post
    try Rustscat or Insul-x Cabinet Coat. I know Rustscat is made by Coronado. Not sure about Cabiniet Coat. I've sprayed Rustscat with good results. I've never useed Cabinet Coat, but I've read lots of good things about it. Make sure you scuff up the old surface well and use a good primer. Good luck!
    I just built new cabinets and used Cabinet Coat, actually a Ben Moore product. I used two primer coats of Ben Moore and two coats of Cabinet Coat. I brushed it on. I used latex since oil tends to yellow in time and has blocking issues. I planned to use Target's pigmented (white) lacquer preceeded by Target's recommended primer. I could never get the Target product to lay well using a 4-stage HVLP.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Dallas, Tx.
    Posts
    1,337
    Butch, I wish you had started another thread. There are actually two different questions here; painting ceramic knobs and spray guns. First of all, any siphon gun will spray what a HVLP will spray. HVLP is not magic. It simply applies more material at a lower pressure, (at the tip of the gun), thus reducing the over spray. You will still have over spray, you will still need a respirator, and you should have a spray booth in which to operate either. Next is the paint for ceramic knobs. Not good. Buy new knobs. Paint won't last under continous use. That's why they are ceramic. If you "had" to paint the knobs, you need an epoxy product but you probably won't match the SW product. Use an automotive paint supply for the epoxy. Sister should have bought new knobs and had the paint mixed to match the knobs.
    Phil in Big D
    The only difference between a taxidermist and the taxman, is that the taxidermist leaves the skin. Mark Twain

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Dallas, Tx.
    Posts
    1,337
    Jeff, Cabinet Coat is not listed under Benjamin Moore. My Bin Moore dealer sells Coronado products and it may be one of their products. But I doubt very seriously that it compares to the quality of Satin Impervo. If Cabinet Coat is a latex product, then I find that unacceptable for cabinets.
    Larry, not to be rude or offensive, but a foam roller cover, for a finished product, is unacceptable on cabinets. It leaves a stipple finish and looks nothing like a sprayed finish.
    Phil in Big D
    The only difference between a taxidermist and the taxman, is that the taxidermist leaves the skin. Mark Twain

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    15,332
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Wright View Post
    I used latex since oil tends to yellow in time and has blocking issues.
    I think it is latex that has blocking (sticking) issues...not oil-based.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •