Lucky I still have a shop?

[Randy Davidson]

Thanks Mike for the heads up. I will check mine today.

[Mike Cutler]

Do those require running the 220 to the now external (wall-mounted) thermostat? Or do they have a low-voltage remote unit?

Phil
Direct line voltage in/out.

The thermostat unit in the heater is taken out and the heater is connected to the load side of the Controller. 220 Line voltage.

They really are a pretty slick little controller. I'll break down the jibberish in the description.

"Pulse Width Modulation". Essentially the 240 is being applied in a "square wave" represented fashion. On-off, on off. The time between on and off, and the length of the on/off pulses, is being modulated to more closely control the temp with out big over shoots.

"PID" Proportional+ Integral+ Derivative controller.

Proportional is the amount of gain in a controller. The difference between setpoint and actual is the error. This error is multiplied by the gain to make the controller respond more aggressively.

Integral. The amount of time between the repeat of the proportional error.

Derivative. An anticipatory bias added to either, or both, the Proportional, and integral, usually integral to begin to correct the error offset before controller action would begin based solely on P+I.

Self tuning. The controller "remembers", usually via a capacitive network, How long it took to reach setpoint historically and biases the controller action accordingly to prevent over shoot.
The Line voltage controllers I referred to will hold overshoot to < 1 degree F.

[Dan Hintz]

Rod is correct though. The fault was internal to a metal enclosure that is grounded. Had the conductor "got free" somehow, the breaker would have faulted.

Assuming the ground had not broken earlier... then you have a hot case.

[Myk Rian]

I just went out and looked at mine. Everything is ok.
I wonder if it was the wire crimp that was the problem.

[Anthony Diodati]

I just checked mine again. Mine has black wires instead of red, and the number is 5813-2050-000. the wires are 14 AWG. not sure what yours are but they look similar. I'm curious, as well as concerned, to see why more than one of these has happened. (See Dayton Heater post started by Don Jarvie)

Seems funny, and wrong to me, they make you wire it with a 30 Amp breaker and # 10 AWG, then they go an use # 14 wire inside.
I just got the little NewAir G72 version, pretty much the same specs, except for the fan CFM,
200 on the NewAir, and 270 on the Dayton.
Don't have it hooked up yet, need to get off my butt, also it's cold down there...........LOL.
Wonder if they had any trouble with the NewAir G72 version.
Thanks, Tony

[Gerald Weathers]

Just stumbled upon this thread. I have the same heater, Dayton G73. Immediately checked mine and everything is good. I have two black wires coming into the thermostat. I live in the South and only use the heater on cooler days. I have a 220 wall switch that I use to control the power to the unit. I always cut it off when leaving the shop for the day. Just my 2c.