chamfer plane

[Roy Lindberry]

John -

You can try sticking a fence onto the side (Or Bottom) of a regular block plane using double-faced tape.... it'll work to solve an immediate problem....

Cheers -

Rob

Rob,

You make a product that the poster needs, and yet rather than pushing it, you give him a workaround? My respect for Lee Valley increases all the time. You are a class act.

[Roy Lindberry]

Mostly I use a block plane to chamfer edges. If you want, use a cutting gauge or pencil line to mark the dimensions.

When I want precision, then I use a chamfer plane I built ...



This has a 15 degree bed and a BU configuration, which suits two blades - one high angle for with the grain and one low angle for across the grain.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek,

I love the simple design of this, and am now thinking about making one. But I have a question. Since the width of the chamfer is determined not by a moving fence (as in other models), but by raising/lowering the iron, does a deeper set make it harder to get a nice chamfer? It seems that it would try to dig in too much, or else you would have to intentionally hold it off the rail a bit, which seems that it would also be a bit inaccurate.

Do you have more information on how you built this plane?

[neil schlosser]

Woodsmith Volume 57 has a plan for a chamfer jig for a block plane. If you can't find it, I might be able to email it to you. It's a single page plan. Pretty simple.

[John Borgwardt]

You guys are the best!!! Thanks for taking the time to comment and post pictures on my question. To the pit I go to make a chamfer. John

[Derek Cohen]

Derek,

.... Since the width of the chamfer is determined not by a moving fence (as in other models), but by raising/lowering the iron, does a deeper set make it harder to get a nice chamfer? It seems that it would try to dig in too much, or else you would have to intentionally hold it off the rail a bit, which seems that it would also be a bit inaccurate.

Do you have more information on how you built this plane?

Hi Roy

Some years after I designed and built this chamfer plane, I bought the chamfer attachment for the Veritas LA Block Plane. I had no previous exposure to the latter beforehand. Interestingly, the basic design for the Veritas was the same as mine - that is, a bevel up configuration where the size of the mouth does not play a part, and where the blade is advanced incrementally for the deepth of cut.

If you set a plane like this to take a deep cut, it will cause much tearout, even with a high cutting angle. This particularly the case with some of the hard, interlocked woods I use. Take a shallow slice, progressively deeper, and you are rewarded with a clean, even chamfer.

This is the reason for the wing nut on the plane. It is simply easier and quicker to grasp, loosen and tighten, to move the blade forward.

I will see what I can do to draw up a plan for this plane, for those that want to build one. Essentially it is built from 3 (or 4) pieces. The centre section can be made one- or two piece - just a vee grooved sole. Then cut away the top bed (at 15 degrees) for the blade. Finally add the cheeks at each side. The wingnut is drilled all the way through, but recessed at the sole, with the hole plugged. I used Jarrah for this plane, which has lasted several years.





From: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...%20Tables.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Stig Taube]

Hi Derek,
Did you ever made a drawing or sketch?

Stig

[Terry Beadle]

I use a higher angle frog ( 50 degree ) block plane that has a $10 replacement blade from a Mujingfang. Made from scraps and follows a general design pioneered by Steve Knight.
The blade is A2 and keeps an edge for a very long time and is very sharp. The high angle makes the small bevels easy to control as the adjustable mouth piece controls tear out too. Works great. Purple heart sides and rock maple center. Adjustable mouth piece is black walnut. I have not found a need to add sole bevels or 45 fence.

newBlade.jpg

[Deane Allinson]

John:

I chamfer with my block plane - alot. With a bit of practice, and a fine cut, take the number of strokes to get to the chamfer wanted. Slight irregularities
along the length of the edge being chamfered add character, IMHO.

I am of this school of thought too.
Deane

[James Owen]

A draw knife and a pair of draw knife guides is another way to get nice chamfers. If you're handy with a draw knife, you can cut them freehand, without the guides.

Lee Valley sells newly-manufactured bronze chamfer guides (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=58664&cat=1,230,41182); you can get vintage guides from some of the antique tool dealers or the infamous auction site.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Derek,
Did you ever made a drawing or sketch?

Stig

Hi Stig

Sorry, but no drawings or plans. One day I will get to it (just have to remember!).

With regards the comments on chamfers with a block plane: that is how I do it as well. However there are times when one needs to be precise, when the show counts, and this is when a chamfer plane is important.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mike Hutchison]

I recently purchased a Stanley No. 72 chamfer plane at a garage sale.
The "Vee" sole is so deep though it seems like a problem when working
narrow workpieces. Really haven't had time to work with it much yet.StanleyNo72.JPG

[Stewie Simpson]

[John C Cox]

Beautiful and practical.

[Tony Zaffuto]

Beautiful work Stewie! Do you sell those?

[Stewie Simpson]

Beautiful work Stewie! Do you sell those?

Tony; I don't need the money so the answer is no.