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Thread: Thickness planer vs thickness sander

  1. #16
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    I'll just add that even a big widebelt does not really take off much in a pass. There was one post about removing 1/8" material in a pass, and I have to question what kind of machine and wood? I run a 43" Timesaver with a 25 hp motor and usually
    remove in the thousands per pass. With a really aggressive grit and soft wood you could take more, but I wouldn't expect to take off that kind of material in normal use.

    good luck,
    JeffD

  2. #17
    If one had a giant bandsaw with excellent resaw ability and a wide drum sander, a planer would be unnecessary. A planer is an economical compromise to the two.

    Thicknessing thin stock and tear-outy wood is where a drum sander shines.

  3. #18
    Beware, some oily woods such as cocobolo can quickly clog the belts on a thickness sander. Planners can wreck havoc on highly figured woods, such as birds eye redwood.

    - Rick

  4. #19
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    Interesting thread. One of the great things about a forum format is that you get opinions from a lot of folks based on what they do and how they do it. This can be invaluable but, you must always render the information down and apply it to your situation. I would love to have a wide sander for some things but, I do not do enough of that sort of thing to warrant the loss of real estate. A planer I use a lot and actually have two right now. One is taking up more real estate that it earns and is bound for some sort of decision shortly.

    So for me, a balanced shop holds a jointer, planer, tablesaw, bandsaw, router table and drill press. I have two of some of these machines and other not-listed machines as well. Someone else may not have a jointer; I would be lost without one. Someone else may not have a bandsaw; I would be lost without one. A wide sander would be nice but, get away from my planer!

  5. #20
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    Feb 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Duncan View Post
    I'll just add that even a big widebelt does not really take off much in a pass. There was one post about removing 1/8" material in a pass, and I have to question what kind of machine and wood? I run a 43" Timesaver with a 25 hp motor and usually
    remove in the thousands per pass. With a really aggressive grit and soft wood you could take more, but I wouldn't expect to take off that kind of material in normal use.

    good luck,
    JeffD
    36 grit. 7-1/2hp 37" single head.

    Does it grunt? You bet. Would I do it on a full width piece? No way. But a 15"-20" piece kicked at an angle a 36 grit will hog through material. The fine belts are the ones that take tons of power. The course grits are just noisy.

    It'll do it on the mid-hard woods; cherry, birch, oak, etc. I don't think it'd be too happy doing it on hickory or maple.



    I wouldn't do it in normal practice, for general use I too am taking next to nothing off. I generally takes me six passes to take 13/16" material down to 3/4" using 80g, 120g, 180g on both faces.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Columbiana, Ohio
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    I feel they compliment each other. I am convinced you cannot flatten a bowed board with either tool, unless using a sled. I just ran about 90bf of rough sawn cherry thru my 13" Rigid planer. I used the "Rust sled" to flatten one side and then flipped them. I take around .030 off each pass on the planer. My sander, a Jet 16-32 I get around .008 on each pass. It does take some time, but for some odd reason I really enjoy this part. It is a real challenge for me to get some of these boards flat but I am getting better at it.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Bellingham, WA
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    I use a planer for making things thinner and the sander for making things smoother. I find it frustrating trying to do it the other way around, although it is very equipment and process dependent. The right planer setup is easier to finish sand than some widebelts (think ground in place or indexed knives). The right widebelt setup does fine doing abrasive planing (think large diameter drum).
    Last edited by J.R. Rutter; 12-14-2010 at 12:47 AM.
    JR

  8. #23
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    Jul 2008
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    Today I was out in the shop and found an old scrap of burnt quilted maple.. Just a cut off. I remember the Wide Belt sander burning the surface of the maple as it was sanding.
    The burn was easy to remove .. a couple of swipes with the ROS and it was gone. It seemed to burn the soft fiber on all the pieces.

    Flattening is not like a Jointer.. Its more like running a 24" wide hardwood panel through.. it comes out sanded, and you can put a straight edge in any direction..

    I know many will say they can do that with a hand plane.. but not at 15 or 30 feet per minute!

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