Drift Problems with Resaw King

[Charlton Wang]

First the RK doesn't have a set, though it can be ground incorrectly and that has happened. However, more often than not it is a lack of tension which will let the blade wander and barrel in the cut. The problem is even if someone thinks they know how to adjust a saw unless they have objectively tested the tension or have a very good finger you likely don;t have the correct tension. If someone has other blades that cut straight it still may be a tension issue since blades take different absolute pressues to have the same tension. In the end there can still be user error unless the tension is accurately tested and the saw can provide enough absolute pressure for the particular blade, until those factors are ruled out you are still guessing about the accuracy of the grind on a carbide tipped bandsaw blade.

Everything you've said here is basically true about me.

[Van Huskey]

Everything you've said here is basically true about me.

Like most of us you have been led down the primrose path of saws with tension gauges marked with blade widths and antiquated tensioninng techniques repeated by magazine authorities and forums. Many of the experts have that sense of feel that doesn't translate well to other people, things like deflect the blade with a moderate push x amount y distance from the guides, while they might get reasonably repeatable results it is crazy to think someone reading the article for instruction can repeat it and those learning from the article are less likely to immediately recognize a cut caused by low tension then will run off chasing another issue (and gods forbid start cranking on the lower wheel adjustment trying to reach co-planer nirvana) then after a day or so of pulling, pushing, twisting and retwisting every adjustment on the saw they end up introducing so many variables in the saw it would take a reasonably astute bandsawer hours to put back right.

I get the idea of trying to communicate shortcuts but like doing math using a calculator it is important to understand the slow methodical way first, there is enough voodoo in bandsaws (as Dave pointed out each machine has its quirks) it is important to take a scientific/repeatable approach to those variables you actually can. When I see or read flutter, I generally shudder. Keep in mind one doesn't have test tension every time on a saw with a scale (most old industrial saws have no scale but you can measure coil compression if you like). Just do it carefully one time, keep good records and when you put that blade on OR replace it with the exact same model blade just refer to your notes for the tension level. I keep a little tag on all my blades when stored with all the model/length/tension info and while the blade is on the saw it stays on the back upper blade cover under a fridge magnet.

[Erik Loza]

Charlton, just my 2-cents, so feel free to do with it as you please. Yes, it is possible those blades are dull and yes, it's possible the teeth are damaged or whatever but this really sounds like a tension issue.

If I were in your shoes, I would put one of those blades on there and keep cranking up the tension until the blade either cuts straight or until it snaps, whichever comes first. 100% serious. That way, you rule out the possibility that your saw cannot tension the blade adequately (which I think also might be a possibility). Personally, I have never used an RK blade (always wanted to but Lenox carbides were cheaper and have done everything we needed, so...), so not sure what laguna calls out as far as correct tension but my feeling is that you don't have a "baseline" for what blade will/won't work on your saw at this point and I'd want to establish that first. You didn't say what width RK you have but if it's anything like a Lenox carbide, that's going to be a ton of pressure to get it to cut straight and there are more machines that can't do that, than can. Or, as Chris suggested, go with a Lenox Die-Master II. That's an easy blade to use that give's carbide-like results if you use it properly. Best of luck,

Erik

[Andrew Hughes]

The RK blade is something like .025 so it really doesn't take a heavy saw to pull it tight to make a very good cut.
Think about all the 14/12 saw Laguna sells now with that blade.
I don't really believe in a 14 inch wheel boasting a Resaw cut above 7 inches.
But its somehow getting done out there.
Before I bought my B20/20 I had a 16Lt from Laguna.
I out grew it and don't miss the aggravation of using small thin bands on that saw.
,035 thick bands cut like poop on that 16Lt.But anything around .025 or less was fine.
I take very good care of my B20/20 always cleaning the saw and blade.Something I didn't do with the 16Lt but I hated that saw.

Aj

[David Kumm]

My ACM LT 18 was pretty average with any carbide blade over .025" as well. Dave

[Charlton Wang]

Hi Erik,

I basically cranked to the max and it seems like the cut is good now. The blade is a 3/4" blade which Laguna was selling on deal here at SMC (two for $150). I've never cranked my bandsaw to the max because none of my other blades have seemingly needed this much tension (even though most of them are 0.025" bands) but this is the only "carbide" blade I've used. Now I know just how much tension is needed.

Thanks for the help!

Charlton

[David Kumm]

I would also take two precautions. Check the spring and make sure it is not bottomed out. If you compress it all the way, back off 1/4 turn. Second, try not to feed so fast that the back bearing spins fast. The heat build up shortened the life of my carbide blades and caused ( I believe ) hairline cracks at the gullet that eventually broke the band. I don't have scientific evidence but since I began tensioning enough to avoid both problems I've yet to break my first blade. Before it occurred fairly frequently. Dave

[Charlton Wang]

Good points, Van. Not sure how I missed this post.

Cheers,
Charlton

[Raymond Seward]

I have a 14Twelve Laguna BS and a Resaw King blade.....from the first time I used it it has worked FLAWLESSLY. I was actually dumbfounded at first having moved from an old Delta 14" BS. I set the tension per the gauge on the inside,,,,the ceramic guides as per the manual and it slices oak like butter....absolutely no drift....just my experience. I'm more than pleased.

[les winter]

Where can I find that deal on the RK, please?

[Charlton Wang]

I think the deal is long gone. It was more than 6 years ago.

[Raymond Seward]

Where can I find that deal on the RK, please?

Rockler just sent me a 20% off coupon....I'm assuming (maybe wrongly) everyone on their mailing list got one. with that you could order one from them....that's how I got my RK

[Van Huskey]

Rockler just sent me a 20% off coupon....I'm assuming (maybe wrongly) everyone on their mailing list got one. with that you could order one from them....that's how I got my RK

Thats how I got my Driftmaster Fence @20% off a couple of years ago. The only issue with Rockler and the RK is they only carry the blades that fit the Laguna saws they sell, for other lengths you have to go to Laguna direct, they sell a lot on eBay as well but last time I checked their prices were equal or higher on eBay.