Workshop Build Questions

[Donald Neisler]

First of let me say thank you to anyone that helps me here. I have been try to get my shop built since Christmas last year.....

My shop is a 30 x 40 x 10 Pole bard, Metal covered.

I have a couple questions that I need some help with.

#1. I need to install some attic vents, how many, what kind, and etc. The building is already built and I just want to make sure it doesn't leak. I will heating and cooling it when complete.

#2. I am going to be either using drywall or using 1/2" plywood for the ceiling? Which should I use? Also will R30 blown-in insulation be enough or should I go R60. I am Paris Texas and we swim in the summer time here it is humid.

#3. What should I use for interior wall sheeting, 1/2" Ply, Drywall, OSB? I am not sure if fire code comes in to play. Any help there would be great.

[Jerome Hanby]

On #3, ply or OSB has huge advantages in the shop. You can screw directly to it!

[Donald Neisler]

On #3, ply or OSB has huge advantages in the shop. You can screw directly to it!

That is what I was thinking, but someone said something about fire code and got me wandering about it. Any reasons why not to use OSB ($6.97) vs 1/2" Ply ($12.99)? I plan on painting either white....I think.

[Don Jarvie]

1/2 drywall on the ceiling. Its easier to handle.

What type of ceiling do you have, flat, cathedral, etc?

[Donald Neisler]

1/2 drywall on the ceiling. Its easier to handle.

What type of ceiling do you have, flat, cathedral, etc?

Just plan flat to deal with.

[Donald Neisler]

Here is a couple pictures.


Man is it junky, I need to get walls done so I can work on some storage.
IMG_20101205_163001-150x150.jpg


Outlets every 4 feet.
IMG_20101205_163009-150x150.jpg



Exterior View.
IMG_20101205_164458-150x150.jpg

[james glenn]

You should check with the local building code official before using wood sheathing on the walls or ceiling.
Not sure about the codes in TX, but it could be a fire hazzard and possibly void the insurance if something did happen. (not positive on that though)
Either way, I would recommend gwb on the ceiling at least.

The code official code also tell you what is recommended/required for attic venting and insulation. In NY, we are getting past the R-30 and into the the R-60 range.

[Donald Neisler]

Most people around here don't insulate or even finish the interior walls, but I want to be able to work in the cool or warm air. 105 degrees and 100% humidityis killer.

[George Bregar]

Pics are pretty small but assuming 24" on the ceiling joists you should use 1/2" high strength ceiling drywall. It replaces the normal 5/8" used on ceilings and won't sag. I went OSB for walls...cheap, looks fine when painted for a shop (IMO)...of course this will renew the "best to use on the walls" argument.

[Donald Neisler]

My trusses are on 60" center, but I am installing runners on the at 24" on center. I thought about OSB for walls to.....just not sure.

[Stew Hagerty]

Personally I would use Ply for the walls. In damp environments it will hold up better and hold items screwed or nailed into it better than OSB. If fire codes are a problem, I would suggest putting up 5/8" drywall on the walls with plywood on top where you might want to fasten things. I am suggesting 5/8" because it is far more durable in a shop than 1/2", also because you can put up lots of french cleats and not worry about small heavy things pushing through. I've never lived in the South so I'm not one to speak much about HVAC down there, but definately put the most insulation you can in. You will thank yourself when you see your utility bills and you will just be more compfortable in general. Oh, and don't forget the vapor barrior!

[Jim Andrew]

I used sheetrock for the fire resistance. Know how fast an old mobile home can burn down, and with wood on the inside, everything is flammable. Sheetrock has only a few minutes of fire slowdown, but if you are there might make the difference. Of course, if your shop is full of wood, and it gets on fire, sheetrock won't make much difference.

[Keith Avery]

I had a 30 by 48 pole barn with 12 ft walls(about 15 feet in middle) built almost a year ago. I am interested in hearing about the ceiling, but was told by my builder that putting sheetrock on the bottom of the trusses was a problem. Mine are on 4ft spacing. He said(and it makes sense) that the trusses would not support drywall or plywood. The are designed for a load from the top not from the bottom. I decided to close off my eave vents and insulate the ceiling and walls with 4 by 8 2.5 inch sheets of cyno something rigid insulation. It is about r vlaue of 7 per inch. I was lucky to find about 140 sheets on CL for 1.50 a sheet. They are used and many are broken and it is messy and itchy but I think when I finally get it all done(I have about a third done) it will be very effective. If I wasn't so cheap I would have done spray foam. In my head I though oh 4 by 8 sheets won't be too bad.(wrong I have to cut almost everyone to size as the trusses are actually 46.5 inches apart) Getting them attached to the 15 ft ceiling by myself is an ordeal. I am thinking OSB on the walls but my best guess is that is at least 12 months away.

[Thom Sturgill]

If you plan on hanging cabinets, use a french cleat. This can be fastened to studs and the wall covering does not matter. Similarly, 1x6s can be nailed to studs (over sheetrock) horizontally every couple of feet to give plenty of space to hang things from while still creating a firebreak. If you KNOW you are going to hang something heavy, let in a 2x between the studs before hanging your sheetrock. Sheetrock is easily punctured - but its also easily repaired, is fire resistant, and paints well.

[Jim Andrew]

You guys considering building shops need to be aware that trusses are designed for the load expected for the building, and pole barns almost never have ceilings, so most are designed for no ceiling load. You have to tell your contractor or supplier you plan to hang a ceiling so they use a little heavier truss.