Workshop Build Questions

[David Thompson 27577]

Can't help with the attic vents.

I'd use drywall on the ceilings, and either 1/2 or 5/8 ply on the walls. In general, fire codes that prevent plywood walls are for residential and commercial structures -- but check with the local building inspectors. You might also want to check with your insurer on this, since wood walls might cause higher fire insurance premiums.

But I have plywood walls in my shop, and I love that I can use screws to hang anything anywhere.

As for insulation -- use the most/best that you can afford. Energy will never get cheaper, only more expensive. And wood will never lose its propensity to absorb moisture, and swell, then lose it and shrink. A climate controlled shop is inherently better at producing quality pieces -- good insulation will have a positive effect on your work.

[Donald Neisler]

My trusses are huge to me, 2x6 bottoms and uppers. I have used them several times with a hoist so I know they can hold some weight, not sure about over time but we are going to find out I guess.

[Don Bullock]

On #3, ply or OSB has huge advantages in the shop. You can screw directly to it!

That is what I was thinking, but someone said something about fire code and got me wandering about it. Any reasons why not to use OSB ($6.97) vs 1/2" Ply ($12.99)? I plan on painting either white....I think.

Make sure that your building/fire code will allow OSB or ply. The code where I live requires drywall and fire sprinklers. That's becoming common in many areas.

[Jamie Schmitz]

You will most likely have to put in gable vents since the roof is done. I would get the kind that have an automatic fan that kicks on when it gets above say 80-90℉. Certainly a roof ridge venting system would have been cool. I noticed you don't have an eave,maybe you are in tornado country? The eave is nice because you can put in vents that would be under the roof and would help draw cooler air. Nice to have a white roof though.
attic-ventilation.jpgGable Vents.jpg

[Donald Neisler]

Well I talked to the City today, since this is residential I can install plywood. If it was commercial it would have to be 1 Hr rated drywall. So I am good on that front now.

I also talk with the local metal shop....
They suggest me removing my ridge cap and the foam sealing things. Then take some plyers and bend the roof sheeting up vertical about 1" from the end. Install some screen, then reapply the ridge cap without the foam sealer, and I have a 40" vent. Sounds easy enough to me. The ridges in the metal are not sealed on the outside of the shop that so I have air coming in.

Does that sound ok?

[Don Jarvie]

Since you have a flat ceiling you can blow in insulation. You may want to consider a vapor barrier before the sheetrock since you have such high humidity.

[Karl Brogger]

Steel on the ceiling, OSB on the walls.

Sheet rock is damaged way too easily and let's be honest, you aren't going to fix it.

[Donald Neisler]

Well I finished all my electrical and we have install all but 5 sheets of OSB which I left down so I can blown in R30 insulation next week.