Did a couple of Peppermills using a CA glue finish

[Brian Howerton]

Hey all,

I just completed a few peppermills using Tom Mullanes CA glue finishing technique. I am really hooked on the finish and will likely continue using it. Regarding the CA finish longevity issue, the last word I heard is that it should last at least 10 years.

The first mill is Camphor Burl and the second Amboyna Burl.

[Dick Parr]

Very nice looking mills Brian. Those burls are beautiful.

[Dave Right]

Very Nice! Those are keepers!

[Ted Shrader]

Brian -

Really nice! The finish works well.

Where do you get the insides for the mills. Looking for some to quality works for my own use.

Well done,
Ted

[Tom Mullane]

The best mills on the planet are here.... http://www.allthingspepper.com/

[Gary Max]

Brain those look perfect to me. I have never had CA finish fail and I have been useing it for years. Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing with us.

[Ted Shrader]

Tom -

Thanks!
Ted

[Jim Ketron]

Very nice!
looks like glass insted of wood awesome finish!
Jim

[Jim Becker]

Those are "high class" mills, Brian! The burl looks outstanding for this application...

[Lloyd Frisbee]

Where can I find a link to Tom Mullane's CA finish techniques? Or do I have to wait for his DVD to come out?

[Brian Howerton]

Thanks for the compliments. I am having a great time with this finish. My next project is a snakewood mill. I have a extremely rare piece that is 3"x3"x24" and is figured on all four sides (cost me a fortune). I am nervous about it but can't wait to see the mill. Tom shared the CA finishing technique with me, so I will let him handle explaining the procedure. Instructional DVD? I certainly would pay for one. He has saved me a ton of finishing time and helped me develop a better product. I am forever greatful.

Ted, as Tom referred earlier, I do sell the mechanisms that I use in my mills. They are the finest I have been able to find anywhere. People that pay top dollar for peppermills expect the best mechanisms too. I bring them over from Denmark and am the manufacturing companies US agent. Click the link from Tom's post for more info.

[Jack Diemer]

Tom or Brian, tell us more about how to do the CA finish. I especially want to know what kind of CA (thin) you use and how you keep from sticking to your work?

[Glenn Hodges]

What a finish, and what beautiful wood! Thanks for sharing it with us.

[Tom Mullane]

LET ME PREFERENCE THIS BY SAYING.... PLEASE TRY THIS ON SOME SCRAP STUFF FIRST... THIS IS A GREAT FINISH, BUT YOU NEED TO PRACTICE TO GET IT RIGHT... IT IS NOT FOOLPROOF. YOU WILL FIND A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT WAYS TO DO THIS FINISH ON PENTURNERS.ORG... THIS IS NOT MY ORIGINAL IDEA.. FAR FROM IT.. IT IS JUST THE WAY I DO IT....

The CA finish is no secret... pen turners have been doing it for years and the pens stand up very well to everyday use.... I have a corn cob pen and pencil set that I carry everyday that shows not signs of dulling...
Basically you will need the following items...
Sanding Sealer.. I use Chestnut Cellulose Sealer I get from Woodturners Supply
Thick Set CA glue and mild accellerator .. I get mine from Marc at www.woodhelp.com ... best prices I have found...
Various grades of sandpaper up to 600 grit which you probably have anyway..
0000 grade steel wool
MicroMesh Kit.. the woodworker kit that goes to 12000 grit..
Hut Plastic Polish or Novus Plastic Polish for the final polish..
After sanding the piece to 400 grit, wipe off all dust and apply a thin coat of sanding sealer and wipe off excess.. let it dry for a couple of minutes and then steel wool smooth... If you are doing a wood with a lot of open grain, you might want to apply the sanding sealer by sanding it into the wood.. this will fill the grain.... then sand again to 400 grit and apply a second coat..
Here is where it can get tricky... I use Nitrile Gloves so that the CA does not stick to my fingers...
Using Bounty or Viva (brand does matter) paper towels... fold one sheet until about an inch wide... this gives you some padding and allows the CA to go on smooth..
For the initial coat, I put a couple of drops of BLO on the paper and with the lathe at slow speed (on my 1236 Jet the slowest speed), start to dribble CA at the joint of the paper and wood and smoothly move back and forth.. DO NOT try to put a thick coat on the wood... just get a smooth, thin coat on. Give a light spray with mild accellerator, then sand again with 400 grit to smooth the finish and wipe off the dust.... THIS IS YOUR FIRST COAT...
Continue to put on at least 2-3 more coats with a dry section of towel (no BLO) sanding lightly between coats to smooth the little ripples you will get... with these coats the paper will tend to get hard and seem to be smoking.. so work smoothly and quickly... trying to put on the CA with hardened paper will leave a rough finish...
After the final coat is dried, sand with 400 and 600 grit, wiping the dust between grits then proceed to the MicroMesh... for the final 4 grits of MicroMesh, I wet sand them... make sure that you always wipe the dust between grits, even with the MicroMesh...
The wet sanding with the 12000 grit MicroMesh should leave what looks like a glass finish... if you want to make it shine even more.. use the plastic polish to really bring out the gloss even more... the plastic polish will remove even the tiniest little swirls that almost invisible to the eye...
On my pen I finish this with a light coat of Renaissance wax.. but any really good grade of wax buffed on the lathe will work....
If you have a buffing system for your work... a light buff with the carnuba wheel will work..

[Christopher Pine]

Those are amazing!!!
Beautiful!

Chris