Bandsaw Tension Crank?

[Rob Price]

I'm breaking in my new Jew BS, and finally getting the hang of quickly switching out blades, setting it up, etc. One frustrating thing is the tension knob. It's right at the top of the saw, so I really can't palm it (I have big hands anyways) without rubbing my knuckles on the saw each turn. I swapped from a 1/8" blade to a 1/2 blade the other day and it seemed like I spent 10 minutes just turning the tension knob to get it up to tension. So I said to myself, "there's gotta be a better way." My saw alreay has a "quick release" but it really doesn't remove that much tension.

Looking around I see the Carter ratchet, which is a great idea, but they want $50 for it.

I see some cheapo handles on Amazon, but they replace the threaded rod, and one reviewer said he bent the rod the first time.

Is there a quality crank out there for a reasonable price? I've seen some people have welded a socket to theirs, but I don't have those skills or equipment. Or do I just bite the bullet and get the carter crank?

[Neil Brooks]

I can tell you this: I got the Carter, and am VERY, VERY glad I did.

On my Grizzly GO555X, I gave up the quick release tension lever (probably don't have to, but ... ), mostly because it's SO easy to give the knurled, rather star-like knob on the Carter a half-dozen twists, and take the tension way down....

My OEM threaded rod was garbage -- munged threads. Locked up tension assembly. Quickly and easily replaced by Grizzly -- of course -- but the Acme threads on the Carter are baby smooth, and really effortless.

Where it used to be work getting the last few turns on, to properly tension a 1/2" blade ... I NOW have to be careful not to OVER-tension, using the Carter.

It's that easy.

Also, the notion that I could remove the knob, and use a 3/8" wrench/torque wrench -- either to speed it up (unnecessary, IMHO) or use a torque wrench to achieve consistent tension results, for each blade, for each use ... is pretty cool.

Could it be done other ways, including DIY, and cheaper ? Prolly. Yeah. Sure.

But I thought it was money well spent.

[John Nesmith]

I have the same problem with my Ridgid. I wonder if something like this is worth the money.

[Neil Brooks]

I have the same problem with my Ridgid. I wonder if something like this is worth the money.

Gotta' wonder what this means:

Does not work with band saws that are already outfitted with factory tension cranks.

[Randy Reitz]

I got the cheap crank version and it really made a big difference. Now I just back it off ten turns after I'm done using it and crank it back up when I'm ready to use it again. It is so much easier to adjust than the little knob.

I looked at the heavy wheel version from Highland, but it was just for a generic Taiwanese 14" saw so I saved a few bucks. The crank, some Cool Blocks, and a little research online and in a couple bandsaw books, and finally a little tweaking left me with a much more usable saw. Oh, and also a good blade. Now it's fun to use instead of a battle.

[John Nesmith]

Gotta' wonder what this means:

That's funny. I noticed the same thing. I just emailed them to ask about it.

[John Nesmith]

I got the cheap crank version and it really made a big difference.

Which "cheap crank version"?

[Randy Reitz]

Like the Peachtree you mentioned above. I think I ended up ordering from R & D Bandsaw up in Canada because I was ordering some other replacement parts from them. I really like the look of the heavy wheel crank from Highland, and I think there was also one available from Iturra when I ordered mine, but it seemed hard to justify a $45 wheel over a $15 crank for a cheap import.

I forgot to mention above that I sorted out how to do the "flutter" method of tensioning the blade and that also made a big difference. The crank really helps in the "flutter" method.

[Van Huskey]

I have set up a few cast clones with several different tensioning options and I must say the Carter solution is by far the best I have seen. I didn't like the cranks because of their tendency to rock the saw, not a real issue by any stretch I just found it annoying. I however love the bandsaw so much I never think of it as a place to skimp, if you are one that only uses it occasionally you might not appreciate the $50 worth of precision the Carter ratchet rod brings to the equation.

[John Nesmith]

Like the Peachtree you mentioned above. I think I ended up ordering from R & D Bandsaw up in Canada because I was ordering some other replacement parts from them. I really like the look of the heavy wheel crank from Highland, and I think there was also one available from Iturra when I ordered mine, but it seemed hard to justify a $45 wheel over a $15 crank for a cheap import.

I forgot to mention above that I sorted out how to do the "flutter" method of tensioning the blade and that also made a big difference. The crank really helps in the "flutter" method.

Thanks. I think I'm gonna give it a try.

[Kent A Bathurst]

I got a $15 +/- crank from somewhere for my delta. Works great. Use it a lot. Haven't bent it. Yet. Nearly anything beats the heck outta that annoying knob.

That being said, I am absolutely convinced that nearly anything you get from Carter or Louis Iturra on the mechanical/upgrade side is gonna work well. Well, except maybe tensioning gauges, but let's not reopen that can o' worms for the Nth time.............

[Wayne Cannon]

The Carter tensioning lever is worth every penny. Three positions -- taut, relaxed, and loose. Easy.

[Harvey Pascoe]

Yep, I got the big machine wheel crank from Highland and can't imagine life without it. A bargain compared to the little plastic knob that came with my delta. I got $800 worth of improvements on my machine which turns it into a jewel instead of the barely functional machine I originally bought.

[John Nesmith]

The Carter tensioning lever is worth every penny. Three positions -- taut, relaxed, and loose. Easy.

Kinda hard for me to justify, since I only paid $150 for my used Ridgid 14".

[lowell holmes]

I put this crank on my 14" Jet.

I think is less obtrusive than the levers.

I works great.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/q...tensioner.aspx