Waterlox, Stickiness & Wax?

[Alex Knapp]

Hi -

Finishing a small mahogany coffee table with high gloss waterlox. Applied first coat with a brush, let it dry for 24 hours, sanded with 220 grit (very lightly, then meticulously cleaned up with first a cloth, then a vacuum, then a hand/vacuum technique i found on youtube), applied second coat with a brush, dried for 24 hours, applied 3rd coat (no sanding b/w 2 & 3 coats).

My question is this: The table is tacky....almost sticky. This is my first time using waterlox, and unsure of what the final product is supposed to feel like, so should have to supplement this finish with a wax of some sort to get a nice high-gloss, slippery smooth surface?

Any comments much appreciated!

Edit - I live in PA, and the workshop is my unheated, uninsulated garage. It's been about 30 degrees throughout this entire process

[Mark Levitski]

I have only used Waterlox Original, but it is never sticky, soft, or tacky when cured. It is very hard. Either the application was off a little, or the product was out of date if that is possible. In the first case, i.e., application, it might be that with that many coats and only 24 hours between you might have sealed in some uncured varnish underneath. I do know that it says 24 hours for recoat on the can, but I'm sure that depends on temp and humidity. I'm sure that 30 degrees is the culprit here. As far as stale date, I think the only thing that Waterlox does when it goes out of date is to get gelled up and chunky. My novice experience with this product.

[Henry Ambrose]

Give it some time, it'll take about a month to get really hard.
Bring it inside if you can - that'll help some.
I like to wait longer between coats if possible, but you did not do wrong by coating the way you did.
The low temperature is the problem, but it will finally harden.

[Howard Acheson]

30 degrees in entirely too low for finishing with oil based finishes. Waterlox is an oil based varnish so the temperature should be kept above 60 degrees for proper drying. At 55-60 degrees you can expect the drying time to be about doubled. Below 50 degrees the finish will never dry properly. Waterlox will dry to a hard, non-sticky finish. If it is sticky, it's not dried properly.

One thing you can try is be sure you get it to a proper temperature area. Then set up a small fan and keep the air moving over the surface. Give it a couple of days. The reason for the long time is that the second and third coat will have built a film that will greatly slow the oxygen transfer necessary for proper curing. Sometimes, if the item has been at low temperatures for a while, the oxydation process will never restart. If the item is still sticky after two days, you are going to have to use a chemical paint stripper and remove the finish.

[Mike Monroe]

IMO, 30 degrees is entirely too cold to apply a finish.

[Alex Knapp]

Wow. OK. Lesson learned. It is now inside (and has been for a day). The appearance is fantastic, and exactly what I wanted, but the texture is just off a bit. Other than stripping it, is there anything i can do to salvage it?

[Casey Gooding]

Sand it lightly with fine sandpaper (320 or 400) then apply another coat that has been thinned a bit. When done with care, it will lead to a smoother finish.

[Howard Acheson]

Wow. OK. Lesson learned. It is now inside (and has been for a day). The appearance is fantastic, and exactly what I wanted, but the texture is just off a bit. Other than stripping it, is there anything i can do to salvage it?

Don't do anything to the surface until you are sure that the finish has fully dried and cured. With Waterlox, this can take 3-4 weeks. Given the problems you had with drying, I would recommend you wait at least the time indicated. Once you are sure it has fully dried, lightly sand with 320 paper mounted on a cork or rubber cushioned sanding block. Sand with the grain until it is level. Be careful not to sand through. Now vacuum off the dust and vacuum the area you were in. Get out you finishing supplies and then get out of the space for a couple of hours to allow the dust to settle. Change your clothes. They will be the dustiest things in the shop.

After a couple of hours, go "gently" back into the area trying not the raise any dust. Lightly dampen a rag with mineral spirits and wipe down the surfaces to remove any dust that may have settled on them. Carefully apply you final coat and again get out of the area until the surface is tack free. This time may be another 3-4 hours.

Treat you project carefully for a 3-5 days and remember that it will take 3-4 weeks to fully dry, cure and harden.