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Thread: Insulating and running electrical on pre finished garage walls...

  1. #1
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    Insulating and running electrical on pre finished garage walls...

    Yep. That's the idea.... I have 2 walls that need to be insulated, in place, as they are. I CAN rip the sheet rock down, insulate, run power etc... But I don't WANT to... The issue is that I have so much on the walls already, it would be easier I would think to insulate in place. Or would it?

    The walls that need to be done are east and west sides, the door wall is south. The North, east, and south walls (the spot between the garage doors) are the walls that will be getting outlets, the west wall will not. (That has more or less been dedicated as storage, no power tools over there...)

    What's the best way to approach this with my shop still in place? The front wall is a different story, and needs to be addressed on its own, and it WILL get new sheet rock. I am thinking perhaps if I go the demolition, insulate, and re-rock route I would go with the east and south walls first to run the wiring, and spray foam the insulation.
    Last edited by David Hostetler; 01-22-2011 at 1:27 AM.
    Trying to follow the example of the master...

  2. #2
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    If you have a decent vapor barrier, you can blow insulation into the walls by drilling small holes at the top of each stud bay and below each stabilizer to inject cellulose or fiberglass insulation. Then you can wire on the surface using metal conduit.

    However, its really almost just as easy to tear down and rebuild, and then you can fix any issues with the stuff you have hanging up to improve it.

  3. #3
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    Nov 2007
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    Milwaukee, WI
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    Tear down, wire, insulate, and re-rock.

  4. #4
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    Wilmington Island, Ga
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    If time and money is available, do it right and do it once.

    Tear down and re rock.
    Husband to 1, father to 9
    2 girls and 7 boys (in that order)
    Life Is Full Of Blessings
    The Lord is my Rock and my Refuge.

  5. #5
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    I just had the sidewalls in my garage insulated. They drilled 1" holes at the top, blew in cellulose (I hear you can't blow fiberglass thru small holes) tapped in a wood plug just below flush, I spackled and am ready for touch up paint. Way, way easier than a full take down. And cellulose is generally a better insulation than fiberglass, particularly at very low temperatures. At least get a few quotes. A good contractor will be in and out in 2 hours. Probably cost less than buying everything you will need for a full tearout and replacement. And do you have a good way to dispose of all the drywall you take down? That by itself is a pain. Not to mention taping, mudding, sanding, over and over until you are satisfied, then priming and painting. Makes my head hurt just to think about it.

    One quote had a breakdown of $200 to insulate 24 stud cavaties, now that was in combination with adding a foot to my house ceiling and insulating the garage ceiling at the same time. The guy I went with didn't give me a separate price for the walls.
    Last edited by Ole Anderson; 01-22-2011 at 9:18 AM.

  6. #6
    If you have a decent vapor barrier, you can blow insulation into the walls by drilling small holes at the top of each stud bay and below each stabilizer to inject cellulose or fiberglass insulation. Then you can wire on the surface using metal conduit.
    You should not use a true vapor barrier in coastal Texas. Way to hot and humid and will sweat like a glass of ice tea and you will have a mold factory growing in the walls particularly if you air condition the space.

    Being an inspector I can tell you that insulating needs and techniques are very different from the cold Northern climate to our sub tropical climate in South and Southeast Texas. what is needed in Oregon, Idaho, Minnesota, etc. is very different that what is needed or can be done in our climate. That is the reason to talk with a licensed insulation contractor in your part of the country They will understand the requirements of your particular area.

    It is possible to have insulation blown in the walls but stay away from cellulose IMHO it a a very poor product. It settles out gets dusty and overall not used much in our climate. There are some companies that do the low expansion ISO foams that can work but the contractor better know what they are doing because they can blow out a wall if they get to much in. I have seen fiberglass done but the whole is much bigger in the walls.

    In our part of the world we deal with cooling more that heat. Most of your heat gain is not in that wall particularly if the wall is masonry and has drywall interior. it comes from the roof and attic space. Make sure if the ceiling in the attic above the garage is well insulated. It is not required to insulate over non living spaces so this is a bigger issue than the walls. IMHO Also an insulated garage door will make a huge difference. Of course if you can insulate the walls its all the better but the attic above should be your first move.

    You can run your electrical in EMT.

    Good Luck

    Alan

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    Prairieville, Louisiana
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    Tear down, wire, insulate, and re-rock.
    Been there done that . . . drilling holes will allow for "poor" insulation only . . . NOT WIRING ! ! !

    The sides that NEED insulation are walls that face the sun . . . here in Louisiana, like in Texas, the west sun is a killer . . .

    You will be so glad you tore down, wired, insulated, and re-rocked.

    Now you can even add some horizontals to solidly anchor things . . . instead of hunting studs . . .

    I can assure you, regardless of your skills you can do it quicker this way also . . .


    Quote Originally Posted by George Bregar View Post
    Tear down, wire, insulate, and re-rock.
    Support the "CREEK" . . .

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by George Bregar View Post
    Tear down, wire, insulate, and re-rock.
    +1. The time savings from keeping the walls is an illusion. It is much, much easier to run the electrical through the studs instead of hauling, cutting and bending conduit. Ditto for the insulation.

  9. #9
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    Alan,

    Yeah I saw the comment on the vapor barrier and cringed... That's not a great idea here... I do have R30 over the garage that I added last year, as well as a radiant barrier that I am installing using Attic Foil. The doors are insulated with R10 of rigid foil backed foam, so there is a radiant barrier there as well... And YES it does work well for reducing heat gain, but I want to do everything I can to reduce it further... The walls are masonry (brick).... So yeah, fishing for ideas on that...
    Trying to follow the example of the master...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Lubbock Texas
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    931
    I made holes to blow in the insulation and then nailed a 6" wide piece of trim over all the holes. I then mounted conduit to the surface of the wall. No painting, no patching with "mud" and electrical can be modified at a later date as needed.
    No PHD, but I have a DD 214

  11. #11
    I'm in the process of insulating the garage as well. I plan on tearing out down all the drywall and spray foaming the underside of the second floor and most likely the walls. I was going to use the foil with bubble wrap sandwiched in it. If I use this on the ceiling, would I put it up against the second story floor or the garage side after the insulation goes in?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    League City, Texas
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    Jay,

    For radiant barrier, look into Attic Foil, the alumized bubble wrap really offers no real advantage, and is quite a bit more expensive... I started out with Reflectix, and switched to Attic Foil due to the cost difference... It's pretty steep... Where you put the radiant barrier all depends on your climate. I suspect LV is hot, so you would want it suspended from the rafters, using the "open ridge method". I have the stuff in my house (it's going in slowly but surely). Several coworkers have it in their homes. Sure helps with the cooling bills in the summer!
    Trying to follow the example of the master...

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