3 Phase Band Saw

[David Castor]

Scott,

The way the data sheet is written, my guess is that the motor is a "triple rated" motor that can be connected for 230 V or 460 V three-phase. It will run at 208 V three-phase, but I wouldn't recommend it and you don't have that option anyway. As Van mentioned, a look at the motor nameplate would provide the answer. Speaking as a EE, let me second the suggestion to add a VFD and leave the three-phase motor, assuming you can connect for 230 V. The 3-hp motor is in the size range that is reasonable for a VFD with single-phase input and three-phase output. And you get variable speed operation as a bonus. Looks like a nice new toy!

[Van Huskey]

And you get variable speed operation as a bonus. Looks like a nice new toy!

As well as programmable soft start and motor braking if you buy the resistor. Bandsaws, drill presses and lathes are three machines I would RATHER have a 3ph motor an VFD on than run them single phase.

[Scott Gibbons]

Well, my pickup date was delayed due to the snow storms that turned out to be really anything but... Any how, Today I made the trip and got her home. It was a white knuckle ride and I am happy it is over. Since we will be moving soon, I am just going to leave it in the fixture I made, unfortunately I am no longer able to get my car into the shop. But, that is a small price to pay

I am going to try and get the motor info this weekend, I do know that it is a 3 phase 3hp Baldor. Overall the saw is in great shape, a bit of surface rust on the table, a small amount of sheet metal work, some cool paint and she will look like new.

Well V20 Band Saw

[Scott Gibbons]

Ok guys, thank you again for your help. I confirmed the saw can be wired for 3 phase 230 volts by swapping some wires and installing new heaters.

So I will order the heaters today and this VFD http://www.factorymation.com/s.nl/it...=2&category=32

Will I need anything else?

[M Toupin]

You don't need the heaters, they're for the motor starter in the original configuration. I suppose you could wire up the starter to power on the VFD and use the heaters, but it's not necessary as the VFD has protection built in. The VFD is wired directly to the motor with nothing in between so you'll bypass the starter or use it in a low voltage fashion if you want to use the original controls to start/stop the motor.

Mike

[Scott Gibbons]

Thank you mike. I would like to use all of the original controls if possible. My plan was to cut the current 460v plug and hard wire that to the VFD and then use a 220v plug from the wall to the VFD

-sent from my Droid

[Van Huskey]

Thank you mike. I would like to use all of the original controls if possible. My plan was to cut the current 460v plug and hard wire that to the VFD and then use a 220v plug from the wall to the VFD

-sent from my Droid

I think Mike is pointing out you do not want ANYTHING between the VFD and motor except wire. You can still use the controls on your bandsaw for on/off with the VFD but the heaters are redundant and thus a waste of money. You wouldn't wire them between the "wall" and VFD either, the VFD has inputs for "analog' switches to control On-Off via a low voltage circuit, in this case the original controls are just telling the VFD to switch the power on and off not actually switching the high voltage/current power itself. Think of it like the controls on the saw are running a relay (a complex digital one in this case). This low voltage circuit does not need heaters, just a waste of money that would never be used with a VFD controlling the motor.

PS If I have made it clear as mud, look at the wiring diagram for the VFD you are looking at (its on the site0 and you should see the low voltage control circuit that you would wire the saws power controls into.

[Scott Gibbons]

Ok it is becoming clearer. If I wanted to keep all of the controls, I would have to get a static or rotary phase converter. Is that accurate?

[Van Huskey]

IF you want to keep all the WIRING intact then a RPC would be the way to go. But you can keep the physical switches and use them essentially like normal but have to rewire it when using the VFD.

[Chris Parks]

I think a VFD on a bandsaw is a great move as it allows the user to choose the speed of the blade which can only help.

[Scott Gibbons]

The problem (i think) is... the saw has variable speed built into the controls beyond the low and high speed bar. I don't have that picture loaded, but it is shown here SAW on the wells badge you can see the high/low speed bar and the knob/dial that you can turn to adjust the speed. The brochure states that it has 110v and I would really like to keep that all functional.

[Chris Parks]

The VFD gives you same control as the saw speed control. in fact greater as it is possible to increase the speed above what 60hz will give you. Why you might want to do that I don't know but it is possible.

[John Lifer]

I'll BET you that those controls don't do anything electrical.. You most probably have a gearing mechanism that is fine to leave. In looking at the brochure, it states oil bath gear...
You need the VFD and only the VFD. Mount on the BS, wire directly to the motor. Ignore or remove any electrical disconnects or heater. You can rewire the start/stop switch to turn on/off the saw. All really simple. 3 phase is way too good to eliminate with 1phase motor.

[Alan Schaffter]

Ok guys, thank you again for your help. I confirmed the saw can be wired for 3 phase 230 volts by swapping some wires and installing new heaters.

So I will order the heaters today and this VFD http://www.factorymation.com/s.nl/it...=2&category=32

Will I need anything else?

Wow that is a serious beast!

After reading the specs in the brochure at your link I was wondering what all the confusion was about, unless that is not the exact model you got. The motor specs for the 3 phase Baldor motor say it can be wired to run on 208, 230, or 460V. It also says it has a dual range mechanical speed control with a real gearbox, not a noisy Reeves drive. The brochure photo shows a lever (to select range?) and a hand wheel (to dial in the speed?) Your photo didn't show that side of the machine so I couldn't tell what you actually have.

The brochure says you can get an accessory "Vector AC Drive Variable Bandspeed"- a vector drive is a type of VFD. Sooo . . . . before you buy a separate VFD from Factorymation, I would see what the manufacturer sells and for how much. See if their VFD will run on 220V single phase. It is listed under "factory installed options" but you might be able to install it yourself then you would have a VFD specifically tailored for that bandsaw or at least one designed for easy installation. I suspect the optional VFD mounts in place of the rectangular panel above the mechanical speed control.

The 110V controls are for the mag switch only and it also looks like the saw has a separate kill switch (typically wired in series with the normal stop button on a mag switch) on the front of the machine, so rewiring for a VFD from Factorymation or other source might not be so simple. If you want that capability, you will need to keep the mag switch. As someone has already said, DO NOT put any disconnects between a VFD and the motor- a sure way to let the smoke out of a VFD. A properly designed VFD with breaking resistor will give you that capability, but may require more rewiring.

The only negative- I didn't see any dust collection ports. I would hate to cut a hole in that nice cabinet!

[Chris Parks]

I'll BET you that those controls don't do anything electrical.. You most probably have a gearing mechanism that is fine to leave. In looking at the brochure, it states oil bath gear...
You need the VFD and only the VFD. Mount on the BS, wire directly to the motor. Ignore or remove any electrical disconnects or heater. You can rewire the start/stop switch to turn on/off the saw. All really simple. 3 phase is way too good to eliminate with 1phase motor.

The VFD will allow you to vary the motor speed regardless of what the controls do as it varies the frequency which can only be good, it is not called VARIABLE for nothing.