Good.... Easy to laminate both sides of the MDF. I did not want to laminate the bottom of the Oak. Do not mind a bit of poly though.
Scott,
You are correct. The best bet would be to use the same specie and thickness. I would suggest a balance design (same number/orientation of veneers top and bottom from the neutral axis (center of section)) and if you use a walnut burl on top, use a walnut veneer on the bottom. Where you can't use the same specie, I suggest trying to match both SG and shrinkage characteristics, if possible. Also, I would also match grain orientation top and bottom (obviously there is no orientation to match with burl).
Our Wood Handbook Tables 4.3 and 4.4 list the shrinkage values for various species and Tables 5.3-5.5 provide SG values. See www.fpl.fs.fed.us for download. Note that cross grain in peeled veneer is the tangential direction (greatest shrinkage in tables). Depending on how sliced, much veneer is akin to lumber and will be cut across both the radial and tangential directions (I would use an average of the radial and tangential values from the tables in this case). If the veneer is radially sliced, then you would use the radial value.
Hope this helps. Cheers, bob
Last edited by Chris Padilla; 01-25-2011 at 3:36 PM.
Bob, that's great info - thanks much.
I manufacture a sawn veneer, so the data is very applicable.
Regards,
Scott
Can you laminate one side of MDF and seal the other side (and edges) with shellac and avoid problems, or is laminating both sides necessary.
most prefab kitchen counters are particle board with laminate on only one side and they stay flat...
If you don't make mistakes, you don't learn.
-- Sam Maloof
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Scott Vroom
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
If you make the edge of the oak flush with the laminate (not under it) it will help protect the edge of the laminate from de-laminating or breakage from use. I like the idea of a torsion box but maybe a bit much but hey never enough right. Another thought which I am about to embark on (because mine warped, I did not seal or cover) is to mount the bottom to 2 rails made of angle iron. I actually just checked H. Depot for some stock and they had some steel with pre-drilled holes along the entire length which might be nice for hanging tools and save drilling. These pieces were very strong I tried to bend them and they did not budge and were very straight. Did you say 1/8 inch laminate? I have never seen it that thick.
no they don't they appear to be flat and stay that way if they stay dry and are screwed down well enough but they are not flat like you want a router table top to be flat also particle board in that application is "good enough" for the majority of the construction industry you can also use MDF for countertops the same way also not as flat as you want a router table top
if you want laminated panels to stay flat and the back /bottom isn't visible then its common practice to put backer laminate (brown or black and thinner / cheaper than the laminet you want to look at on the top/outside) on those surfaces (look at laminated table tops for example)
as to the OP's question, the best practice for what you are wanting to do would be to laminate top and bottom of the MDF and poly the exposed oak
and seal the edge of the mdf where the cutout for the router is just don't soak that mdf edge or it will swell and mess up your top i often seal those edges with contact cement put on with a small roller for smoothness
HTH
Phil in Big D
The only difference between a taxidermist and the taxman, is that the taxidermist leaves the skin. Mark Twain