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Thread: Tung Oil, BLO, Danish Oil - is there a difference

  1. #1

    Tung Oil, BLO, Danish Oil - is there a difference

    I would like to know if there is a difference in appearance when using these different oils. Finishing isn't one of my strong points and I am hoping to try out some new techniques. I use oil to "pop the figure" in figured woods and to bring out color in woods such as cherry or walnut. Typically I grab a can of natural danish oil and haven't experimented with BLO or Tung Oil. I have seen David Marks use Tung Oil on many of his projects and have read several posts in this forum mention the use of BLO. Is there a real difference in the appearance between these different products or it is simply a matter of solids each contains (to build up the finish faster)? Thanks is advance.

    Roger

  2. #2
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    Honestly, you'll be hard pressed to see the difference between BLO and "real" Tung Oil when applied as oils. Pure Tung Oil also takes eons to cure... BLO only a few days. The cost difference is significant, too.

    The term "Danish Oil" can mean a lot of things, too...it may just be one of the above oils or a varnish oil blend. In fact that "Tung Oil" that you refer to in the context of David Marks is a varnish oil finish from a major manufacturer, not "Tung Oil" in the real sense...whatever oil that is in it has been polymerized and is no longer what it started out as.

    Now, it's important to understand that oil finishes don't really "build" much. You'll get some and with close-grained woods such as cherry and maple, the surface will be silky smooth and "appear" to have built. But there is still very little finish on the project. When folks seem to be getting a lot of said "build", they are likely using a varnish oil which does put a thicker layer on the wood.

    In my shop, I use BLO. If it's going under shellac and other finishes, I just the cheap stuff from the 'Depot. If I'm finishing with just the oil or with oil and wax, I favor Tried and True polymerized BLO (which they call Danish Oil on the can).
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
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    Thanks Jim, that is a lot of good information.
    Dick

    No Pain-No Gain- Not!
    No Pain-Good

  4. #4
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    The fog clears! Thanks Jim and Roger for posting the question.
    TJH
    Live Like You Mean It.



    http://www.northhouse.org/

  5. #5
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    Linseed oil darkens wood, especially Cherry, more than tung oil does. Tung oil is a common recommendation for Maple because you don't want darkening and yellowing. Linseed oil goes well on Cherry; heavy applications accelerate onset of the aged appearance.

  6. #6

    thanks for the replies

    Useful information - thanks for taking the time to reply to my question.
    roger

  7. #7
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    True tung oil comes from the nuts of a tree in China. A product that is a true tung oil will have a label that says either "pure" or "100%". If it doesn't say that on the label, IT ISN'T TRUE TUNG OIL . Forget about all the other baloney and look for one of those two words if you want to use a true tung oil. If the label contains any other chemicals, except a thinner, you are not getting a true tung oil. True tung oil takes about 3-4 months to fully cure and will emit an odor for that time.

    "Tung Oil Finish" is a marketing name for products that the manufacturer thinks will result in a finish like the finish you get from a true tung oil. These "Tung Oil Finishes" may contain some true tung oil, but most do not. Their only claim to the use of the word "tung" is that it claims to give you the appearence of finish that results from true tung oil. When you buy a "tung oil finish", you are getting a "faux tung oil finish".

    There are two types of "tung oil finishes". One is mixture of varnish, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits (called an oil/varnish). The exact mixtures are proprietary but 1/3, 1/3, and 1/3 will get you real close. Some manufacturers add a dollop of drier to speed up the drying. This same mixture is frequently also called "Danish Oil" because it gives a finish that resembles the finish used on much of the "danish style" teak furniture imported in the 50's and 60's. It closely mimics a true oil finish but the addition of the varnish resins gives it more durability and protection.

    Here are some oil/varnish mixtures*)
    Watco Danish Oil
    Deft Danish Oil
    Behlen Danish Oil
    Maloof Finish
    Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish
    Minwax Tung Oil Finish
    Minwax Antique Oil Finish
    Velvit Oil

    The second "tung oil finish" is one made from varnish and mineral spirits. The approximate ratio is 1:1. This is really just a thinned varnish just like the stuff sold as "wiping varnish". When one two or three coats are applied, it also mimics the finish produced by a true oil but it is harder than the oil/varnish above because it does not have as much oil. It is slightly more protective than the oil/varnish type or tung oil finish. For all intents and purposes it is a varnish finish.

    Here are some thinned varnishes*)
    Formby's Tung Oil Finish
    Zar Wipe-on Tung Oil
    Val-Oil
    Hope's Tung Oil Varnish
    Gillespie Tung Oil
    Waterlox
    General Finishes' Sealacell
    General Finishes' Arm R Seal
    Jasco Tung Oil

    One way to tell whether the product is an oil/varnish or a wiping varnish is to read the application instuctions. Oil/varnishes are applied, then given some time to set, then wiped dry. Wiping varnish products are wiped on an left to dry (no wiping off).

    For either of the above, you can mix your own using your own proportions, can it and sell it as "My Greatest Tung Oil Finish". Then announce a new product with slightly different proportion and call it "My Greatest Danish Oil Finish". We're not talking rocket science here.

    Finally, I'm not saying that any of these products are not good. They are what they are and can give you a good finish when properly applied.

    (*) Thanks to Bob Flexner "Understanding Wood Finishes"
    Howie.........

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Howard Acheson
    For either of the above, you can mix your own using your own proportions, can it and sell it as "My Greatest Tung Oil Finish". Then announce a new product with slightly different proportion and call it "My Greatest Danish Oil Finish". We're not talking rocket science here.
    Howie, why bother even changing the formula? It's just marketing...

  9. #9
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    Well, this weekend I spent ten hours Saturday and about seven hours today (Sun) applying Waterlox sealer on all of the oak beadboard, hardwood and plywood in my new bar room and I have to tell you, whatever is in it, it sure makes me a bit lightheaded for the rest of the night. Hopefully, just one or two coats of high gloss finish remain and this part of the job is done.

    By the way, anyone planning on using Waterlox in the near future and don't have it in their finishing supply as of yet, you might want to go out and pick it up shortly. My local supplier tells me that the prices are set to jump up a nice amount. The only reason I got it at the old price was because he was still working off of an old delivery. I paid something around $35/gal for the sealer and $65/gal for the high gloss finish.
    Last edited by Fred Voorhees; 01-16-2005 at 6:09 PM.
    There's one in every crowd......and it's usually me!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Howard Acheson View Post
    True tung oil comes from the nuts of a tree in China. A product that is a true tung oil will have a label that says either "pure" or "100%". If it doesn't say that on the label, IT ISN'T TRUE TUNG OIL . Forget about all the other baloney and look for one of those two words if you want to use a true tung oil. If the label contains any other chemicals, except a thinner, you are not getting a true tung oil. True tung oil takes about 3-4 months to fully cure and will emit an odor for that time.

    "Tung Oil Finish" is a marketing name for products that the manufacturer thinks will result in a finish like the finish you get from a true tung oil. These "Tung Oil Finishes" may contain some true tung oil, but most do not. Their only claim to the use of the word "tung" is that it claims to give you the appearence of finish that results from true tung oil. When you buy a "tung oil finish", you are getting a "faux tung oil finish".

    There are two types of "tung oil finishes". One is mixture of varnish, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits (called an oil/varnish). The exact mixtures are proprietary but 1/3, 1/3, and 1/3 will get you real close. Some manufacturers add a dollop of drier to speed up the drying. This same mixture is frequently also called "Danish Oil" because it gives a finish that resembles the finish used on much of the "danish style" teak furniture imported in the 50's and 60's. It closely mimics a true oil finish but the addition of the varnish resins gives it more durability and protection.

    Here are some oil/varnish mixtures*)
    Watco Danish Oil
    Deft Danish Oil
    Behlen Danish Oil
    Maloof Finish
    Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish
    Minwax Tung Oil Finish
    Minwax Antique Oil Finish
    Velvit Oil

    The second "tung oil finish" is one made from varnish and mineral spirits. The approximate ratio is 1:1. This is really just a thinned varnish just like the stuff sold as "wiping varnish". When one two or three coats are applied, it also mimics the finish produced by a true oil but it is harder than the oil/varnish above because it does not have as much oil. It is slightly more protective than the oil/varnish type or tung oil finish. For all intents and purposes it is a varnish finish.

    Here are some thinned varnishes*)
    Formby's Tung Oil Finish
    Zar Wipe-on Tung Oil
    Val-Oil
    Hope's Tung Oil Varnish
    Gillespie Tung Oil
    Waterlox
    General Finishes' Sealacell
    General Finishes' Arm R Seal
    Jasco Tung Oil

    One way to tell whether the product is an oil/varnish or a wiping varnish is to read the application instuctions. Oil/varnishes are applied, then given some time to set, then wiped dry. Wiping varnish products are wiped on an left to dry (no wiping off).

    For either of the above, you can mix your own using your own proportions, can it and sell it as "My Greatest Tung Oil Finish". Then announce a new product with slightly different proportion and call it "My Greatest Danish Oil Finish". We're not talking rocket science here.

    Finally, I'm not saying that any of these products are not good. They are what they are and can give you a good finish when properly applied.

    (*) Thanks to Bob Flexner "Understanding Wood Finishes"
    I know this is old...but WOW...this was helpful. Thanks!
    Wood is very beautiful in tree form. Wood is very useful in burning form. I merely try to make my work honor the first, avoid the latter, and aim for the middle: beautiful and useful.

  11. Question Need a bit more info

    Good input on the tung oil. We have been using Behr Tung Oil Finish, no longer available. We really like it. Is it feasible to mix our own using pure tung oil, raw linseed oil and mineral spirits? We also need, in some places, a UV inhibitor and a mold inhibitor. What do I add to accomplish UVI and mold resistance, where do I get it and how much do I add? Any other suggestions?

  12. #12
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    Frank,
    This thread is over 6 years old... recommend you check out the "Project Finishing" forum for answers to your questions, where all the posts are about finishing This is your best bet for finding an answer, as it's likely there are thousands of posts addressing your question there already waiting for you to just use that SEARCH field at the upper right of the page. And you won't have to wait for folks that way too!

    By the way, welcome to the Creek! I see this is your first post, you'd be amazed how many folks make their first post a revival of a long-dead thread--you're not alone! I don't think we used to have the finishing forum when this thread was made, and maybe some mod will move it there.

    Sorry I don't have an answer for you, I know just enough about finishing to point you in the right direction, and not much more unfortunately.
    Thread on "How do I pickup/move XXX Saw?" http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=597898

    Compilation of "Which Band Saw to buy?" threads http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...028#post692028

  13. #13
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    Howard's info is not out of date. I would add the point that neither pure tung oil or boiled linseed oil makes a satisfactory finish by itself. Neither will provide much protection from water spotting (though tung oil offers a small amount greater moisture resistance.) I argue that in every instance where you might think of using one of the pure oils you can substitute and oil/varnish mix, whether called Danish oil, teak oil, or tung oil finish of the oil/varnish mix type. I doubt anyone could see or feel the difference betweeen the pure oil and the oil/varnish if both were applied according to standard practices.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Howard Acheson View Post
    True tung oil comes from the nuts of a tree in China. A product that is a true tung oil will have a label that says either "pure" or "100%". If it doesn't say that on the label, IT ISN'T TRUE TUNG OIL . Forget about all the other baloney and look for one of those two words if you want to use a true tung oil. If the label contains any other chemicals, except a thinner, you are not getting a true tung oil. True tung oil takes about 3-4 months to fully cure and will emit an odor for that time.

    "Tung Oil Finish" is a marketing name for products that the manufacturer thinks will result in a finish like the finish you get from a true tung oil. These "Tung Oil Finishes" may contain some true tung oil, but most do not. Their only claim to the use of the word "tung" is that it claims to give you the appearence of finish that results from true tung oil. When you buy a "tung oil finish", you are getting a "faux tung oil finish".

    There are two types of "tung oil finishes". One is mixture of varnish, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits (called an oil/varnish). The exact mixtures are proprietary but 1/3, 1/3, and 1/3 will get you real close. Some manufacturers add a dollop of drier to speed up the drying. This same mixture is frequently also called "Danish Oil" because it gives a finish that resembles the finish used on much of the "danish style" teak furniture imported in the 50's and 60's. It closely mimics a true oil finish but the addition of the varnish resins gives it more durability and protection.

    Here are some oil/varnish mixtures*)
    Watco Danish Oil
    Deft Danish Oil
    Behlen Danish Oil
    Maloof Finish
    Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish
    Minwax Tung Oil Finish
    Minwax Antique Oil Finish
    Velvit Oil

    The second "tung oil finish" is one made from varnish and mineral spirits. The approximate ratio is 1:1. This is really just a thinned varnish just like the stuff sold as "wiping varnish". When one two or three coats are applied, it also mimics the finish produced by a true oil but it is harder than the oil/varnish above because it does not have as much oil. It is slightly more protective than the oil/varnish type or tung oil finish. For all intents and purposes it is a varnish finish.

    Here are some thinned varnishes*)
    Formby's Tung Oil Finish
    Zar Wipe-on Tung Oil
    Val-Oil
    Hope's Tung Oil Varnish
    Gillespie Tung Oil
    Waterlox
    General Finishes' Sealacell
    General Finishes' Arm R Seal
    Jasco Tung Oil

    One way to tell whether the product is an oil/varnish or a wiping varnish is to read the application instuctions. Oil/varnishes are applied, then given some time to set, then wiped dry. Wiping varnish products are wiped on an left to dry (no wiping off).

    For either of the above, you can mix your own using your own proportions, can it and sell it as "My Greatest Tung Oil Finish". Then announce a new product with slightly different proportion and call it "My Greatest Danish Oil Finish". We're not talking rocket science here.

    Finally, I'm not saying that any of these products are not good. They are what they are and can give you a good finish when properly applied.

    (*) Thanks to Bob Flexner "Understanding Wood Finishes"

    can I use any in the first Category as a top coat over project that is grain filled and has a seal coat of shellac???

    I have some old Behr Scandanavian Tung Oil Finish and used it over wood prepared as descibed above with shellac sealer and it gives me an even look without lines
    when wiped on then wiped off... Seems to stick and harden nicely.

    I guess Im confused about when it should be or should not be an "in the wood finish"

    It's a Good list.. Thanks

  15. #15
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    I have to add that I love to use oils wether it is boiled linseed oil, oil/varnish blend (Danish Oil) or tung oil on my scroll saw work. The oil gets into the creveces when I pour it on. The oil alone is plenty durable for little handled "wall hanger" projects. I also use manufactured tinted Dainish oil (or make my own) to provied some color. In my opinion my tung oil has a bit more gloss than my boiled linseed oil. Plain Danish oil has little color difference than the other oils, although it provides a more durable finish.
    Last edited by Bryan Cramer; 11-12-2012 at 10:16 AM.

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