Turning on Dust Collector automatically

[greg wood]

OK, up until a couple of days ago I had used one of the boxes that you plug into an outlet then plug your dust collection into it and when your run on your tool, dust collector comes on automatically. Woodcraft, Rocker and Sears Sell these.

See links below

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...t%20collection

I ran gray conduit with Gray recepticales and wall plates to all my tools as one circuit but that circuit does not go to the breaker boxer It goes to an orange receptacle right next to the dust collector device. Then I made a male-to-male cord about 6 inches long that connects the two. When I turn any tool that has dust collection at it on, the dust collection comes on automatically.

Sorry for the long setup here but last week I purchased a SawStop 3HP cabinet saw. It runs on 220Volt and the device is 110. Thus far I have been unable to locate a device that does 220 tool and 110 vacum. Even if I do find one I still have the issue that the rest of my tools are 110.

So my question is has anyone on the site already done something like that and solved this problem. If not does anyone with some electrical and electronic knowledge have a possible solution.

PS.
Before someone says I should have each tool on a different circuit you must understand this is a home hobby shop and I really can't run two tools at once.

[Van Huskey]

It works a different way but I think it does what you want:

http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/...ust_collection

PS time to think about upgrading that 110V DC... you care about your fingers, now care about your lungs.

[greg wood]

It works a different way but I think it does what you want:

http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/...ust_collection

PS time to think about upgrading that 110V DC... you care about your fingers, now care about your lungs.

This just might work. I would use the switch and hook to the dust collector. I would need two tool boxes (one for 220 Volt Saw and one for existing 110v series circut)
A little more pricey that my wood craft switch but considering what I just spend on the saw i guess its not that bad.

[Bruce Wrenn]

If you have a panel box in your shop, why not put a current sensor in the panel? FWW featured such in the Aug 2000 issue. I had mine for over ten years now without any problems. But I did add a delay on break timer that lets DC run for 10 more seconds to clear the duct work. Only one leg of a 220 circuit needs to pass through the sensor. I spent less than $100 for sensor, relay, timer and necessary wiring.

[greg wood]

Bruce,

I do have a subpanel there. I have two questions.

1st) Can I run one leg of the 220 and the hot leg of the 110 that controls the rest of my tools though the same sensor so that if any tool on either circuit is on it will work.
2nd) How did you add the delay for turning it off?

In my case the 220 recepticle, the 110 recepticle and the DC are all three together. I assume that instead of putting in the panel box I could make a box with the sensor in it that has a 220v and a 110v recepticle in it with 220v and 110v plug on pigtails that could be pluged into my existing recepticles?

[paul cottingham]

I think you can mix and match these. But I could be wrong.

[Alan Schaffter]

Bruce,

I do have a subpanel there. I have two questions.

1st) Can I run one leg of the 220 and the hot leg of the 110 that controls the rest of my tools though the same sensor so that if any tool on either circuit is on it will work.
2nd) How did you add the delay for turning it off?

In my case the 220 receptacle, the 110 receptacle and the DC are all three together. I assume that instead of putting in the panel box I could make a box with the sensor in it that has a 220v and a 110v receptacle in it with 220v and 110v plug on pigtails that could be plugged into my existing receptacles?

You should be able to run the both wires through the sensor's torroid coil. The only restriction is the diameter of the hole in the sensor and the size of the wires. The CR Magnetics CR 9321 torroids I use have a .27 diam opening but others are available with larger ones. I use a current sensor at each tool outlet to control my autogates (operation of any gate turns the DC on). The other problem you face is finding the system or circuitry to work with the sensor. These sensors are not rated to operate powered equipment directly and must have circuitry that can control the power relay needed to control your DC.

In the photo a 10 ga. black wire (with orange jacket) from an adjacent tool outlet enters the box from the bottom, passes through the torroid sensor and returns to the outlet (there is no connection to the torroid). The opening is probably large enough for two wires, or one 10 ga. and one 12 ga. wire., etc.

When current flows through the black wire (to a machine) it generates a very small current in the torroid which operates an internal transistor switch. In my system, I connect the switch leads (small twisted orange and black wires) to small pneumatic solenoid air valves that operate my gates. The sensor switch can only be used to operate low voltage/current devices (120mA @ 24V) so you may need a small intermediate relay to operate a large contactor for your DC. You can buy small relays that have adjustable delays in them.

[Larry Browning]

I must use my DC quite a bit different than you. When I turn on my DC it stays on for an extended amount of time while I am doing operations that benefit from the DC. For instance, I might run it with the planer, then the table saw, then the jointer. I turn on the DC once, then turn it off when I have completed the last operation that uses the DC. The DC typically runs continuously 30-45 minutes. The only switching I would do is opening and closing the blast gates. The motor on the DC is not really designed to be turned on and off several times an hour. Having a switching system like you describe would drive me crazy!

[paul dyar]

I have the remote and love it.
Paul

[Alan Schaffter]

I must use my DC quite a bit different than you. When I turn on my DC it stays on for an extended amount of time while I am doing operations that benefit from the DC. For instance, I might run it with the planer, then the table saw, then the jointer. I turn on the DC once, then turn it off when I have completed the last operation that uses the DC. The DC typically runs continuously 30-45 minutes. The only switching I would do is opening and closing the blast gates. The motor on the DC is not really designed to be turned on and off several times an hour. Having a switching system like you describe would drive me crazy!

To OP- my shop activities aren't nearly as organized as Larry so I don't need to leave my DC running. My big problem was remembering to open and close my blast gates. I built autogates that open and close in response to the machines turning on and off. My DC starts whenever a gate has opened, however, I intentionally designed it so I must turn the DC off manually. It doesn't hurt the DC motor to run it when all gates are closed, in fact that puts the least amount of strain on it.

But, depending on how your shop sessions typically go, a system like you want to install may end up cycling your DC motor too often which can cause it to overheat.

Here is a link to a video about my system.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Bruce,

I do have a subpanel there. I have two questions.

1st) Can I run one leg of the 220 and the hot leg of the 110 that controls the rest of my tools though the same sensor so that if any tool on either circuit is on it will work.
2nd) How did you add the delay for turning it off?

In my case the 220 recepticle, the 110 recepticle and the DC are all three together. I assume that instead of putting in the panel box I could make a box with the sensor in it that has a 220v and a 110v recepticle in it with 220v and 110v plug on pigtails that could be pluged into my existing recepticles?

The SSAC sensor will handle about six #14 -#12 THHN wires. I just mounted it in the bottom of my panel box to keep it out of the way. Remember that you will also have to have a relay to control the current to DC. I added a timer so DC would clear the pipes after machine shuts down.

[Alan Schaffter]

I added a timer so DC would clear the pipes after machine shuts down.

Bruce works more quickly than I do! I computed the time it takes for dust to go from the gate farthest from my cyclone (30') at a typical DC air velocity of 4000 FPM. It takes less than a half second, so I decided a delay wasn't necessary- I don't move that fast!

But a delay of 3 - 5 minutes might be good to reduce potential cycling of your DC.