Controling Dust Collector via breaker

[Don Buck]

I recently purchased a Grizzly G1030 3hp dust collector from a millwork shop that went under. The owner ran the DC for me to show it was working. I didn't pay too much attention to how he switched it on but I believe he turned it on via a sub panel.

I am in process of installing a electrical feed for the unit and gave the unit a closer inspection yesterday. I couldn't find a switch on the unit and downloaded a Grizzly manual today and confirmed that the unit has the starter removed and the power cord is wired directly to the motor junction box. I recall he had the unit situated up against the wall (intake facing out) and it was piped in and stationary. An operator would have to reach behind the unit to hit the "start".

Can I operate the unit via my breaker panel or do I need to order a switch to operate the unit? I have the 220v 30 amp circuit ready but don't want to do anything unsafe or unwise. I realize that breakers design and function are to protect the electric circuit from overloading and are not designed for "switching". I probably won't be using the DC more than 4 times per month for the next year or so. I wouldn't mind just plugging it in and testing the circuit if it wouldn't cause any harm.

I will likely be ordering a switch tomorrow but would it be harmful to just test out the DC and circuit via the breaker in the interm?

Don

[Leo Graywacz]

Can you operate it by the breaker, sure. Should you, not really. The breaker is not designed to be used as a switch. The contacts aren't designed for multiple trips day in and year out. Get yourself a switch that can handle the current an install it on the unit. Better yet, get the designed starter for the unit and install that. It will provide protection to the motor.

[Rod Sheridan]

Don, if the motor has internal thermal overload protection you can use a manual motor starter without overload elements, rated for the current and HP of the motor.

If the motor nameplate doesn't say "Thermally Protected" on it you need a motor starter with overload elements.

This can be a manual starter or a magnetic starter with push buttons.

Your breaker isn't designed to operate as a motor starter.

Regards, Rod.

[Dan Friedrichs]

No, you can safely test it a few times using the breaker, but it should be hooked to a motor-load-rated switch (or magnetic starter) for long-term use.

[Van Huskey]

I will likely be ordering a switch tomorrow but would it be harmful to just test out the DC and circuit via the breaker in the interm?

Don

No problem for JUST testing. I wouldn't "switch" the breaker anymore often than I had to though.

[Bruce Page]

No, you can safely test it a few times using the breaker, but it should be hooked to a motor-load-rated switch (or magnetic starter) for long-term use.

Is it dangerous to do so? I control the power to the machine shop side of my shop through a 30 amp, 220v breaker. I don’t use the machinery every day or even every week but whenever I do the breaker is turned on and then off when I have finished. I have had to replace the breaker 2-3 times in the last 15 years but I feel better doing that than leaving the line powered 24/7.

[Dan Friedrichs]

Is it dangerous to do so?

I'm just concerned that it's not good for it to switch a motor, because motors tend to cause arcing across the switch contacts when they're opened (that's why you can't just use a "regular" switch for a motor, and instead need a contactor that is designed to withstand repeated arcing).

[glenn bradley]

I would be more tempted to put a plug on the cord and plug/unplug it for testing. The breaker would probably be fine for a few cycles but it is not designed nor intended for the use you suggest. The motor may not be prepared for this type of use and could be a costly victim of eagerness. If it is not imperative that you test your DC before you can set it up properly, I would wait but, I'm naturally cautious ;-)

[Bruce Page]

Dan, I’m going straight from the breaker to my static phase converter which in turn runs to my two 3ph machines. Each machine has its own normal power switch.

[Dan Friedrichs]

I think that as long as you aren't switching a running motor on and off, it's probably nothing to worry about.

[Jim Becker]

Rather than using a breaker to turn the machine off and on--a task that it isn't particularly designed to do on a frequent basis--use a contactor (like a relay) controlled by a regular 120v switch and/or an inexpensive remote to take care of the need. This is exactly how I have my Oneida 2hp system setup and it works wonderfully. (I have a centrally located switch in my shop that is convenient to use...'got rid of the wireless remotes long ago) Here's a thread from a few years ago by Dennis Peacock that explains how to set this up to use an inexpensive wireless remote. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...ight=Contactor My setup is the same, except I use a simple wall switch for controlling the contactor.

[Larry Edgerton]

Or buy a remote control. Kill two ducks with.....

[Don Buck]

I tested both my circuit and DC using the breaker as the switch and all ran well. I called Grizzly and was pleased to hear the missing 220v on/off switch is only $22 so I will be placing an order today for the switch. Thanks for all comments.