Customized Green Monster

[Roger Chandler]

Good point, Wally. The cutter is on a hex shaft in this application, so it's automatically set at 45 degrees unless you stick it in with the cutter facing straight up... Don't do that, Roger!

Thank you David........and Wally! When I have used my hunter carbide tools [I have both the straight and swan neck] I do hold them at an angle [the swan neck is already registered at about 40 degrees to the shaft] as the guy who sold them to me at WoodCraft in Roanoke,Va is also the president of the Virginia Woodturners Association, and is quite an accomplished turner in his own right, so I got good advice on that one, and it seems to carry to the Monster system as well.

[Roger Chandler]

Roger - congrats on your new hollowing system! You are going to love using it! Sure is pretty!

Steve, that "Grizzly green" is kinda growing on me a little...................

[John Keeton]

John, the cutter you refer to is a Hunter tool. It shouldn't be grabby if used properly. Straight up it will definitely grab. It should be used tilted to about 30 to 45 degrees. Trial and error thing. To get the best results the side bevel should be rubbing so that it's a cutting tool. Takes a bit of practice but it can give a very smooth surface.

Wally

Wally, as David noted, the tool can only be used flat or at a 45* angle, which is where I had mine set. I was moving very cautiously, with a light finishing cut when it grabbed. A vivid lesson for me, and quite surprising! Otherwise, I have found the Monster to be a fantastic tool. I do want to investigate the scraper tool, however. David, is that what you have?

[Roland Martin]

Congrats, Roger! I haven't been this jealous since I was in high school

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Roger,
I have the hand held Monster system. I have all the same cutting tools you got but without the articulating system. Congratulations on your new tooling and I am sure you will love it. I am particularly happy you began this thread because it is helpful to hear John, David and Bernie talk about which cutting tips they like in what situations. I've been trying them all except for the carbide circular cutter. I did find the 3/16" bit to be easiest to use with the adjustable head. Perhaps we might have a discussion in another thread about the various cutter heads and cutters Randy supplies and where everyone with more experience than me finds them most useful.
faust

[Roger Chandler]

Steve Vaughn, Roland..........your day will come! Stay with it!

Faust, the idea of having a thread to discuss, and perhaps get someone to illustrate the particular head cutter they use and why, would be a good one for all the experienced Monster users to chime in on. I will start it, and maybe others will pick up on it...........we can hope they will give their perspective!

[Dale Bright]

Roger, others may do it differently, but I do the opposite of what you have stated. The smaller cutter will cut better, with less resistance, and less likelihood of a catch. On end grain, going straight in, and on the bottom, I do use the 1/4" cutter. But, on the outside, with a faster surface speed, I use the 1/4" for very light finishing cuts. I do not use the carbide tip anymore. I am sure it can be used successfully, but I don't know that I want to climb the learning curve.

John,

I am reading this to say that, you use the 1/4" cutter "On end grain, going straight in". On an end grain hollow form, I was taught to cut to the side so you are always cutting into side grain (moving the cutter from center to the left), a much easier cut and on a side grain form cut straight back, into the side grain (moving the cutter from front to the back) , for the same reason. I hope I am not making this too confusing and that I am understanding your technique correctly.

I too have ruined a piece using the carbide Hunter style cutter. I found that is is very grabby on any ridges left inside, so now I use a large flat scraper, similar to the Super Scraper, to smooth out any small ridges and then go to the carbide cutter for even smoother finish cuts.

Dale

[James Combs]

Justin, when I referred to the circular head, I was referring to the one on the left in Roger's 4th pic - with the HSS cutter. The next one is a carbide cutter that I have used with mixed results. It can be really grabby. I blew up an ash form with it just the other day - my very first explosion!! I use the circular cutting head for most of my work. I like using the smaller cutters, and the flexibility of the circular head is nice.

I had not seen the scraper head - looks interesting, though!

I can confirm that the carbide is very grabby. I though it was just the way I was trying to use it but it appears to be the nature of the beast. At any rate, like John I no longer try to use it.

[John Keeton]

John,

I am reading this to say that, you use the 1/4" cutter "On end grain, going straight in". On an end grain hollow form, I was taught to cut to the side so you are always cutting into side grain (moving the cutter from center to the left), a much easier cut and on a side grain form cut straight back, into the side grain (moving the cutter from front to the back) , for the same reason. I hope I am not making this too confusing and that I am understanding your technique correctly.Dale

Dale, just because I do it doesn't make it right!!! Most all of my HFs are actually turned in face grain, and I have begun drilling a 3/8" depth hole with a long, handled drill bit to use to begin hollowing, and to eliminate the bothersome nub in the center. I have found that I can use the 1/4" to open up the form regardless of grain orientation. But, maybe that is because I just haven't yet "had an event" with it!

[Dale Bright]

Dale, just because I do it doesn't make it right!!! Most all of my HFs are actually turned in face grain, and I have begun drilling a 3/8" depth hole with a long, handled drill bit to use to begin hollowing, and to eliminate the bothersome nub in the center. I have found that I can use the 1/4" to open up the form regardless of grain orientation. But, maybe that is because I just haven't yet "had an event" with it!

John,

Not to worry, I have had more than enough events for both of us. If most of your forms are face grain then going straight in is the best way to go, down hill, so to speak. A depth hole makes things so much easier.

What ever technique you are using is the right one. All one has to do is look at the beautiful forms you turn to see that.

Dale

[Jon Nuckles]

Roger,
I saw your newer thread about the Monster before this one and conveyed my congratulations there, but let me add them here as well. Thanks for asking the questions so we can all benefit from the answers. I just got in the queue for my monster, so it will be a while before I need the advice, but I will certainly be looking for it then. Can't wait to see what you "turn" out with the new toy.

[Michael James]

congrats..... have fun!
mj

[Baxter Smith]

Congratulations Roger! Can't say I am "green" with envy, more like mustard. I will be thinking of you the next time I poke a hole through the side.

[Roger Chandler]

Congratulations Roger! Can't say I am "green" with envy, more like mustard. I will be thinking of you the next time I poke a hole through the side.

Baxter,

Am I to understand you make the inside diameter larger than the outside diameter with a Monster rig, or do you do that by hand?

[Roger Chandler]

Roger,
I saw your newer thread about the Monster before this one and conveyed my congratulations there, but let me add them here as well. Thanks for asking the questions so we can all benefit from the answers. I just got in the queue for my monster, so it will be a while before I need the advice, but I will certainly be looking for it then. Can't wait to see what you "turn" out with the new toy.

Thanks a bunch Jon...........I appreciate your sentiments!