Shop Lighting Advice Requested

[Brian Kent]

The stated difference besides the multiple voltage is the fact that the MVOLTS work at -20° and the others at 0°. I chose them for possible durability difference and the "High Output" designation. That all may not be necessary here where it never gets below 28° in the coldest winter night.

[Greg R Bradley]

When you look at the model numbers in Lithonia's catalog and the model numbers on the Lithonia lights at HD, they don't seem to line up quite perfectly. In addition, it seems some of the model numbers on the bins at HD don't always match the numbers on the boxes, although most do match. The info on HD's website was only confusing to me and I spent quite a bit of time researching lighting for several customers. It appears to me that Lithonia is making lower end versions of their "contractor" line of the industrial fixtures for HD and changing the model numbers around a bit.

I can tell you that the I Beam fixture in the original post is exactly the same in function as the ones that came from the electrical wholesale place when we installed a bunch in a warehouse. They seem to be missing a bunch of the upper housing and are much flimsier than the real thing. They have the same ballasts. They wouldn't take rough handling but if you are careful installing them, they should be fine. We installed 180 and didn't have a bad ballast. I can't recall needing a ballast replaced in the 4 years following where I would have probably heard about it.

In the 2x2 fixture that Brian ended up getting for surface mount, the lamp is more likely to be the same as their regular stuff. I can't see them making a lighter gage metal just for HD but who knows. An 8' fixture needs two people to install, anyway. Once it is mounted to the ceiling, who would care if the metal is thinner?

On Lithonia, if it has the industrial ballast, it will say "T8 MVOLT 120-277v" on the box. If it says "T8 120v" on it then it does not. I believe there may be different levels in the residential ballasts but am only guessing about that from the different wiring diagrams.

I think John is onto something above that Lithonia has a separate website for home stuff with the GESB ballast, whatever that is. I can tell you from my experience, I would be happy to pay ALOT more than $10 extra to get the industrial ballasts. I hate hum, noise, electrical interference, and stuff that breaks after a few years. I also don't want a delay when it comes on, difficulty starting when it is cold, or a big delay before it reaches full brightness. I have one $17 "shop light" in my garage and it makes more noise than all the rest combined.

[Kevin Gurney]

I am getting ready to wire and light my shop. All this information has been very helpful. One question I have is in regards to ceiling height. If my ceiling is higher, how do I calculate for that? I am converting my pole building into a shop and it has vaulted/sloped ceilings. I would like 100 foot candles at the workbench height throughout the shop. The shop is 36ftx24ft.

Thanks

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Kevin,

If Jack Lindsey doesn't reply to your question, PM him. He's a retired lighting engineer IIRC. He wrote a fantastic article in Feb. 2002 Fine WoodWorking magazine about Shop Lighting. It was an extremely thorough article.

[Jack Lindsey]

I am getting ready to wire and light my shop. All this information has been very helpful. One question I have is in regards to ceiling height. If my ceiling is higher, how do I calculate for that? I am converting my pole building into a shop and it has vaulted/sloped ceilings. I would like 100 foot candles at the workbench height throughout the shop. The shop is 36ftx24ft.

Thanks

Kevin, it depends on several factors including the reflectances of the walls and ceiling, the mounting height of the fixtures if they are mounting a uniform distance from the floor or the height of each row of fixtures if they are suspended a uniform distance from the ceiling, and the light distribution characteristics of the fixtures. Also should consider the height of the ceiling at the walls and at the peak and are there trusses or other structural members that would create shadows. I need that info to offer a reasonable opinion. For the reflectances just tell me what colors. I don't expect you to have photometrics on the fixtures but what lamps and fixture type are you considering? If the fixture and/or lamp don't appear to be appropriate I'll offer suggestions.

[Buck Williams]

Kevin,

Here's a link to a simple calculator using the room cavity ratio method, that allows you to plug in the dimensions of your space. As well as dimensions you'll need to know your lamp lumen output a 32watt T8 fluorescent equals about 2800 lumens. Under the "Variables" section in this calculator it lists "Coefficient of Utilization". This refers to the general reflectance of the room, e.g. white walls, ceilng, and floors. I've always guessed at that category, .50 or less would be a darker less relective area. It should get you in the ballpark.


http://sea.siemens.com/consultant/do...Calculator.xls

[Brian Kent]

A year and a half later - I think I have a ballast failure. three of the four bulbs are dim and one is out. Bulb replacement doesn't change it. I assume I just need to buy and install this $30 item: GE ProLine T8 Multi-Volt 4-Lamp Replacement Ballast

…or should I get something else since the last one lasted 1.5 years.
I am very happy with the light output of the 4x4 MVOLT fixtures and I still plan to add two more in the hand tool and lathe areas.

[Jack Lindsey]

Brian - most GE electronic ballasts have a 5 year warranty. Call them at 1-888-432-2552 for help.

[Brian Kent]

Thank you Jack.