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Thread: Converting Baldor 2 hp motor to 220v (Williams & Hussey Molder)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Williamsburg, Virginia
    Posts
    112

    Converting Baldor 2 hp motor to 220v (Williams & Hussey Molder)

    I would like to convert my Williams & Hussey molder from 115v to 220v but I seem to be color blind. Instead of a colorful collection of wires all the wires are either yellow or white and most are identified with numbers that correspond to the W&H manual and the cover plate on the motor.

    I am at a loss trying to identify the 3 wires that are coming out of the motor and joined together (see photo, bottom cluster with yellow wire nut). The are not directly tied to the power cord but are joined together. The manual call for #2 white, J Brown and #5 Black. One of the wires is printed as #5 (yellow wire) and the other two are both white. One of the white wires is same diameter as #5 and has CL 1251LPE RP printed continously on the insolation and the other wire is white with no markings. The unmarked white wire is a larger diameter than the other 2 wires.

    Any advice how I can identify which of the 2 white wires is the "J Brown" and which is
    "#2 white"?

    Perhaps some other W&H owner has overcome this problem. I've contacted W&H but they seem to be stumped also.

    Thanks for any suggestions.

    Don
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    15,332
    Contact Baldor?
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Washington, NC
    Posts
    2,387
    Depending on the motor design, the wires coming from inside the motor are numbered and allow you to (1) wire the motor for 110V or 220V, and (2) wire it for CW or CCW rotation.

    You connect them per the diagram on the motor ID plate. In some cases multiple numbered wires are connected together and to nothing else, in other cases one or more numbered wires are connected to the incoming power (or neutral) wires. If you have the manual and cover plate, there should be no problem wiring it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Williamsburg, Virginia
    Posts
    112
    The problem is the wires can't be identified to match the numbers on the plate. Two critical wires do not have numbers so I don't know which to wire to another wire...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Washington, NC
    Posts
    2,387
    Quote Originally Posted by Don Buck View Post
    The problem is the wires can't be identified to match the numbers on the plate. Two critical wires do not have numbers so I don't know which to wire to another wire...
    It would help if we could see a pic of the id plate and if you provided a Baldor model number- the wiring diagrams are usually online- just Google it.

    Also, list what wires you have and their numbers, and how many do not have numbers. If you remove the capacitor cover, you will see two wires there, one or more of those may go to the junction box.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Williamsburg, Virginia
    Posts
    112

    Wires have been ID'ed!!!

    Happy Ending! At the advice of Jim at W&H I removed the wire nut for the mystery cluster of wires, untucked them and extended the wires out and found the corresponding numbers higher up the wire. I rewired as per instructions and it is now running fine on 220 v. As usual, thanks to all for looking & advising.

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