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Thread: Repair a split in new glue up?

  1. #1

    Repair a split in new glue up?

    I’m in the process of making a buffet for my wife and recently completed gluing up the top and sanding and trimming it to size. It is not as yet attached to the carcase as I have other things to do first. While moving it today I noticed a crack extending approximately 1 ½ inches from one end. The split is not at the glue line but is in the board itself. The top is made from 5/4 red oak jointed and planed to 1 inch. Having never done anything like this I am unsure how to make the repair and am looking for suggestions. Will it work to rip it at the split and re-glue it or should I rip it along each side of the split and re-glue or would a pocket screw from the back side along glue suffice? Thanks
    Stan

  2. #2
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    Stan, I would let your top slab sit for a while to see if any new cracks open up. Your oak may have excess moisture, and the end checked as green lumber often does. If moisture IS a problem, you may notice additional checks soon. Hopefully, the isolated defect was already in the lumber, overlooked during glueup, and opened up after trimming. Time will tell.

    If observation finds the offending check is the only one, I would rip the top slab right through the crack, edge joint both new edges, and reglue the two halves together. Hopefully you can align the two parts to avoid all but touch-up sanding along the new glue line. Good Luck.
    [/SIGPIC]Necessisity is the Mother of Invention, But If it Ain't Broke don't Fix It !!

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chip Lindley View Post
    Stan, I would let your top slab sit for a while to see if any new cracks open up. Your oak may have excess moisture, and the end checked as green lumber often does. If moisture IS a problem, you may notice additional checks soon. Hopefully, the isolated defect was already in the lumber, overlooked during glueup, and opened up after trimming. Time will tell.

    If observation finds the offending check is the only one, I would rip the top slab right through the crack, edge joint both new edges, and reglue the two halves together. Hopefully you can align the two parts to avoid all but touch-up sanding along the new glue line. Good Luck.
    Yep, I agree.

  4. #4
    Thanks Chip
    I think the lumber had been in the warehouse for quite a while, the supplier was down to the last half dozen 5/4 boards and I was hard pressed to find anything I could use. Pretty crappy stuff. I really doubt if it’s a moisture issue but just to be on the safe side I’ll wait a few days. I more than likely missed seeing it in the first place. Thanks for the reply
    Stan

  5. #5
    Stan, You mention how long the split is but not how wide or deep. If the spit goes through the entire board from one side to the other I would rip the board at the split and reglue as previously suggested. On the other hand if the split is small say 1/16 inch or less wide and not through the board I have had good success with CA glue, shavings and or sawdust. The method involves pouring CA glue into the crack and inserting small shavings of similar colored wood from a scrap piece into the crack and into the CA glue. Push the shavings into the crack with a small screwdriver or similar tool that fits the opening. When the crack is filled almost to the surface pour more CA glue ontop of the shavings. Now sand the area with a sanding grit one size coarser than the planned finish grit creating sanding dust that files the crack completely. Sand while the glue is still wet. Make sure you sand a wide area to avoid a depression in the board. Let dry and if a slight depression in the crack remains repeat the glue and sanding process one final time. The entire process should take less than a half hour because the CA glue dries very rapidly. You will have a repair that should blend very well with the surrounding wood. Good luck, Bob.

  6. #6
    Bob
    Thanks for the great information. That's a process I'm definately going to be able to use in the future. In this case the split is 1/32 and is clear through the board so I guess I'll rip and re-glue. Not something I'm looking forward to. Seems like I'm always repairing screwups. Thanks again for the reply.
    Stan

  7. #7
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    Stan, STUFF happens! Learning to fix our dumb mistakes, and fix the defects that develop beyond our control are what make us better woodworkers.
    [/SIGPIC]Necessisity is the Mother of Invention, But If it Ain't Broke don't Fix It !!

  8. #8
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    The 1/32 crack going the entire length of the table top is not the norm IMO. I would bet it will wander latterly a bit. If a 1/8th kurf cut will remove the crack, then I'd go that route.

    Another fix is to use butterfly patches, but that can change the over all looks of the project.

    Another option if the width of the table top will not support more than the 1/8th rip cut, then you could put narrow accent pieces between two or more rip cuts. For example, make a 1/2 inch full length thin piece of rock maple to be incorporated into a cherry top. Two would balance the top and give it a eye catching accent and still give you back your full width top. Or...you could make the 1/2 inch strips out of cherry and just do one full length add in, making sure the added in strip matches the grain elements of the rip cut edges.

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