Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Pro 2000 DC Install

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Haymarket, VA
    Posts
    86

    Pro 2000 DC Install

    The DC came in well ahead of schedule.

    Everything was very well packed and secured to the pallet. The delivery guy did the usual thing by demanding you sign for the equipment before you do an inspection for damage. Really wish they'd just acknowledge that the guys who contract the shipping stipulate the requirements to inspect for damage before accepting receipt. Anyway, it was so well packed that nothing was amiss.

    First step was to put together the stand. I decided to get the optional stand to give myself more flexibility on setup and future changes. I also didn't want any vibration to transmit directly to the structure through a wall mount. First issue, in test fitting the cone to the stand, the mounts don't seem to line up right. The stand is adjustable for 21" or 23" cone, depending on the system you buy. But, there's always some flex in this sort of setup, so no big deal. By the way, the owners manual is really pretty good when it comes to assembly. This wasn't written in Mandarin and then run through a poor translation.

    We lifted the cyclone barrel and fan housing to mate up with the cone on the stand, which is when we hit issue 2. The stand didn't line up because we have the wrong size cone, 21" instead of 23". Would have been great if I could have figured that out before my wife pinched her finger between the barrel and cone. I'm going to catch grief for that one.

    So, after taking a few photos and shooting the email to Oneida requesting assistance, I'm back on standby. I did have a chance to wire the outlet. The requirement for 6-20R was a little odd to me, considering the requirement for a 30amp breaker. Hope to have a decision today on ducting -- type and source.

    Time for a beer.

    Lou

  2. #2
    Nothing worse than someone screwing the up the joy of getting a new shop goodie. Let us know what happens, SEEMS LIKE I ALWAYS GET THAT PARTICULAR BOX TOO, NOT ENOUGH PARTS WRONG SIZE ECT ECT.... lol.
    YOURS TRULY,
    DARIN

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ
    Posts
    1,417
    The 30A breaker is likely oversized as allowed under NEC when properly calculated/installed for motor circuits start-up high amps, which is probably highest for a DC of all the shop tools.

    Here's my thread on calculating wiring/CB for my 5HP Pro-2000, it's more a run-down of NEC dedicated motor circuits than anything, which you may find useful reading if you're interested in the 6-20R, while you wait for your cone
    Sizing Wires and circuit breakers for 3HP and 5HP shop motor circuits
    Thread on "How do I pickup/move XXX Saw?" http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=597898

    Compilation of "Which Band Saw to buy?" threads http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...028#post692028

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Haymarket, VA
    Posts
    86
    Yeah, I didn't have a problem with the breaker size given 19.5A at the motor, but I would have expected a receptacle/plug setup for 30A. At least the plug works...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Weston, CT
    Posts
    274
    No pics...................did not happen.......just a tall tail..................or is that a tall tale...............

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Wake Forest, North Carolina
    Posts
    1,981
    Blog Entries
    2
    Lou,

    If your experience with Oneida is anything like mine you'll be fine.

    Your going to love that thing.

    Please post pictures of the collector and the duct installation when you can.

    PHM

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Haymarket, VA
    Posts
    86
    Tall tale, unless you mean something else...

    I am photo delinquent and will get it fixed. I will admit that I'm a little ashamed of how bad the shop looks right now as I've got five or six projects working from the usual swirl of tools. The DC is my first step in my commitment to make it a better - an more healthy place - to hang out. I did speak with Oneida first thing this morning, quick apology and the correct piece is on it's way. Apparently, the wrong cone was in the right box. It happens, but they fixed it looks like continued great support.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Weston, CT
    Posts
    274
    Lou....I took the plunge and bought an Oneida V3000 hepa a while back. It made a HUGE impact on cleanliness, and makes for a much more healthy work environment. My satisfaction level went up a bunch too. It made WW much more pleasureable. I also bought a dust deputy from Oneida and put it on a Festool vac.

    Oneida makes a good product and they will support you.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Haymarket, VA
    Posts
    86
    Mike...i'd be interested in hearing what sort/size of ducting you put in. Dave brought up the 6" standard for pipes from the machine, and I've read that on Bill's website as well. But, it doesn't necessarily make sense to me that 6"s and the airflow it facilitates would be better at conveying fine dust. Seems to me that higher velocity at all points in the system would be much more important to move chips as fine dust can be moved at lower velocity without settling out. In fact, that's the problem with fine dust getting to filters. I do understand that having higher velocity at the source might make up for a poorly designed dust collection approach to a tool, but addressing that issue with the machine could be as effective -- and perhaps more effective -- than just jumping up the airflow into the DC system from every seam of the machine.

    Dave...with the mix of diameters that you have in the system you assembled, do you think it's not collecting the fine dust? Have you had any additional problems?

  10. #10
    I've just finished installing a Pro 1500 system. I've read pretty much all the DC threads that I can handle/stomach. I used the ducting layout that Oneida spec'd for my system although I did streamline the main branch by moving a machine. I used a 7" main line and 5" drops in spiral metal as Oneida spec'd. I could have done fluid dynamic calculations until I wore my finger tips off. It seems that many people do and I applaud their tenacity and seeming interest in the subject. But simply put my interest was collecting dust that is a by-product of my woodworking. My freshly installed sytsem sucks. It sucks well enough to grab fines that my previous system did not. The weakest link in my new DC is the collection of dust at the TS blade. To this end I have been working with a friend to make an extractor at the blade that will move more CFM and collect more dust off of the TS blade. I'll post pictures when the prototype is up and running. Plastics vacuum forming even!

    After 20 years of woodworking I can't believe the lather that folks get into when it comes to their DC choices. There is so much unecessary angst out there regarding this subject. I separate the wheat from the chaf with this simple "go/no go" logic: Anyone who focuses on efficient collect at the source is worth listening to, anyone who gets deep into the formulas could be right or wrong but they are certainly of a theoretical bent. No harm no foul but in the end, does the system collect dust? Also if you are so sensitive to dust that you prefer to engage in fluid dynamics arguments then I suggest that machine based woodworking isn't your bag.

    Having manipulated PVC and metal in my day I can tell you that metal spiral ducting is the way to go. I don't believe that it's any more expensive than the PVC. Also note that PVC is not available in the diameters that are often optimal - thus the 6" to the bitter end advice - they have no choice other than 4"!

    As Nike says: "Just Do It!"

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Weston, CT
    Posts
    274
    Quote Originally Posted by Lou Ortiz View Post
    Mike...i'd be interested in hearing what sort/size of ducting you put in. Dave brought up the 6" standard for pipes from the machine, and I've read that on Bill's website as well. But, it doesn't necessarily make sense to me that 6"s and the airflow it facilitates would be better at conveying fine dust. Seems to me that higher velocity at all points in the system would be much more important to move chips as fine dust can be moved at lower velocity without settling out. In fact, that's the problem with fine dust getting to filters. I do understand that having higher velocity at the source might make up for a poorly designed dust collection approach to a tool, but addressing that issue with the machine could be as effective -- and perhaps more effective -- than just jumping up the airflow into the DC system from every seam of the machine.

    Dave...with the mix of diameters that you have in the system you assembled, do you think it's not collecting the fine dust? Have you had any additional problems?
    I would follow Oneida's advice on ducting. They are very good engineers. If you can provide good information on your equipment and its placement, they will be able to optimize the ducting.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •