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Thread: Infill Shoulder Plane I made

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Trussville, AL
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    3,589
    Have you made any curlies with it yet? Have pics of that? Thanks for posting all the great info and pics!

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Fishers, Indiana
    Posts
    554
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Nemeth View Post
    Jeff,
    What a great looking plane!!! I have been toying with the idea of building something similar since I read your original posts. First, how difficult would it be to modify it to a BU plane?
    Also, any leads on good suppliers of smaller pieces of steel?
    Andrew, I just used hot rolled mild steel from a local Menards. I have been thinking of buying some 3/16" or 1/4" O1 for making blades. Emco looked like they have pretty good prices. I suspect McMaster-Carr is close in pricing, though I haven't looked to much.

    I originally considered making a bevel up shoulder plane. The one thing I liked about a bevel down was that the wedge (or lever cap in this case) is farther forward away from the back. This let the back of the plane be shaped into the curve I wanted. The other thing with a bevel up design is that you have to make plenty of room to turn the blade on its side to be withdrawn from the rear. With the bevel down design, there is enough room to extract the blade through the mouth. I don't think there is anything about the general way the plane is put together that would prevent making it bevel up though. Lowering the ramp angle and moving the bridge such that it would work with a wedge from behind.

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Fishers, Indiana
    Posts
    554
    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Falzone View Post
    This thread is truly inspiring. I am toying with the idea of making a similar set of these planes instead of buying the LV shoulder planes but I am not sure if I have the patience.

    @Andrew: Onlinemetals-dot-com has a good selection of steels, brass and such.
    For myself, I just like fiddling around and trying to make tools just as something that is enjoyable in and of itself. If it ends up being something useful, than all the better, but if not, I still enjoyed working on an idea. I'm not sure I can compare what I made to something of the quality of the LV shoulder plane, but I say jump in and give it a try.

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Fishers, Indiana
    Posts
    554
    Quote Originally Posted by Jerome Hanby View Post
    Have you made any curlies with it yet? Have pics of that? Thanks for posting all the great info and pics!
    You know I forgot the whole purpose of this thing is to make some shavings. I'll try and post some pics later.

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Cambridge, MA
    Posts
    256
    Hey Jeff,

    I just want to reiterate and chime in with all the other folks and say that I really appreciate sharing of this process with us.
    It's been both informative and inspirational. I definitely have one more project on my list now! uggh thanks
    It's this kind of generosity that makes this cave by the creek one of my favorite places on the internet! Keep it up!

    Cheers,
    Niels

    ps. the same gratitude goes out to ALL the other fellas out there who are willing to share their personal experiences, techniques, and pair of pennies from time to time!
    "Aus so krummem Holze, als woraus der Mensch gemacht ist, kann nichts ganz Gerades gezimmert werden."

  6. #66
    Few tips I would like to offer..

    You can buy pre ground low carbon flat stock at MSC
    http://www1.mscdirect.com/eCommerce/...rchandizedOk=Y

    This might save a lot of lapping on hot rolled steel..

    Scribing a Layout on inside and Center Punching and Pre drilling one side plate might help from drill waking off locations..
    For those using a drill press you want to check that your table is extra square to the spindle as well..

    I always pre drill rivet holes 1/32-1/16 under size then drill them on size for a tighter fit..
    If you use a reamer for sizing the less you leave for reaming the tighter the hole

    IE: Say you leave 1/16" to remove with reamer, hole may be .0005 over size.. If you leave 1/64 it may be .0003 under size
    It kind of also workes with using another drill..

    For rivet holes use a tapered reamer with a .015 deep chamfer to lock in heads of your rivet stock..
    You can use a tool much like this
    http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CEYQ8wIwBA#
    aka rarebear - Hand Planes 101 - RexMill - The Resource

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Fishers, Indiana
    Posts
    554
    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Kleso View Post
    Few tips I would like to offer..

    You can buy pre ground low carbon flat stock at MSC
    http://www1.mscdirect.com/eCommerce/...rchandizedOk=Y

    This might save a lot of lapping on hot rolled steel..

    Scribing a Layout on inside and Center Punching and Pre drilling one side plate might help from drill waking off locations..
    For those using a drill press you want to check that your table is extra square to the spindle as well..

    I always pre drill rivet holes 1/32-1/16 under size then drill them on size for a tighter fit..
    If you use a reamer for sizing the less you leave for reaming the tighter the hole

    IE: Say you leave 1/16" to remove with reamer, hole may be .0005 over size.. If you leave 1/64 it may be .0003 under size
    It kind of also workes with using another drill..

    For rivet holes use a tapered reamer with a .015 deep chamfer to lock in heads of your rivet stock..
    You can use a tool much like this
    http://www.google.com/products/catal...ed=0CEYQ8wIwBA#

    Thanks a lot for the tips Johnny! Things that may seem obvious to someone with metal working experience may easily escape me. This is just the kind of feedback I love to see.

    Thanks again,
    -Jeff

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Fishers, Indiana
    Posts
    554
    100_0816.jpg100_0814.jpg

    Finally got around to sharpening the blade a bit and giving it a try. I still need to make a decent iron, but now I also need to come up with project that needs a shoulder plane. Necessity is suposed to be the mother of invention, but sometimes it works the other way around. I need to come up with a project to justify the tool.

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Harrisville, PA
    Posts
    1,698
    Hi Jeff,

    Very nice plane and a great and inspiring tutorial.

    Thank you,
    Chuck

    When all else fails increase hammer size!
    "You can know what other people know. You can do what other people can do."-Dave Gingery

  10. #70
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Wittrock View Post
    I need to come up with a project to justify the tool.
    I think that plane justifies itself thanks for sharing.
    If it ain't broke, fix it til it is!

  11. #71
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,529
    Wow - well done! I'm glad I stumbled upon this thread.

  12. #72
    Jeff,

    I greatly appreciate you posting this tutorial, this is so wonderful looking and so well executed. I can't wait to try something like this. I'm sure I am repeating others but you have helped give me confidence to attempt making some of my tools out of metal!

  13. #73
    I'd like to ask any of you who have metalworking experience, and I will likely post a new thread in that forum as well, does anyone have a suggestion for a small mill/lathe to produce screws and various parts for planes?

    I know that is very open ended but I was hoping someone could suggest a mill/lathe that is known to be reliable. I've seen the unimat sl-1000 and it looks nice if you can find parts etc

  14. #74
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Williamsburg,Va.
    Posts
    12,402
    DON'T buy a Unimat!!!!!! An Atlas 10" is BAD enough,so you can spend MANY extra hours making parts that could be done a great deal faster on a better lathe. My first metal lathe was a 12" Atlas(Sears) lathe. My next lathe was a Jet 10" belt drive bench lathe. It was infinitely better than the Atlas. You could spend nearly as much on a Unimat as on a 10" Jet. There are many hobbiests out there with limited space,and a fear of any machine with a little weight to it. So,little,lightweight machines always bring more than they are worth,considering the work they are able to barely do.

    I advise staying away from those 9" lathes that are also popular. You have to change the gear train often to cut different threads,though they SEEM to have quick change gear boxes. One I tried,that a friend owned,had a TERRIBLY coarse "fine" feed rate. Poorly engineered.

  15. #75
    Jeff - truly stunning and a great write up as well.
    This is one of the best posts I have read in a long time....
    Thank you for sharing, and please show more - I'm interested in your smoother too!!

    Matthew

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