If you use epoxy thn rough up the metal surfaces with sandpaper first.
Could be, although I must have seen it on one of the WW forums because I haven't subscribed to any of the mags in years. It has been long enough that I really do not remember, though. I certainly am not about to claim credit for the idea, just the implementation.
Thanks everyone for the replies. It seems there are many ways to install t-track. I haven't heard anyone say that they installed it a certain way that did not work.
I chose to drill all the way through and use flat head machine screws and nuts. The nuts sit in counter bores.
Mark
Lee Valley sells a t-track with a lip on the bottom so that it can't come out of the wood. See here:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware...76,61994,52400
I would think that it would be much better than screws.
Cam-Saskatoon Canada
Looks great, Mark. I like the movable stop and shop-made holddowns.
Mike
Thanks Mike. There is a little lifting of the fence on the blade side when you tighten down on the hold-downs. After messing with it a bit I found that I didn't have to tighten it much for the hold-down to do it's job. I'm going to stick a little sandpaper on the end of the hold-downs. I think the sandpaper will add hold-IN power. I think I was cranking it down hard so the piece wouldn't slip out.
Cameron, Those Lee Valley T-tracks are a good idea. Maybe the next jig will get those.
Mark