Band saw blade guides

[Richard A. Rivera, M.D.]

I am upgrading from my old trusty Craftsman 12in and have been looking at many saws. As my daughter says, I have paralysis by analysis.
My question, in that in looking, I have noted different blade guide systems, some saws with bearings (ie Carter style) and others with a friction style, like the "cool blocks" on my Craftsman or the ceramic on the Laguna I saw. I am sure if I get three people to respond I will get 6 answers. But what are the indications, advantages (if any) for the material being cut with the different guide systems, if there is one? Is one system more effective for say re-sawing, and the other for scroll like work, etc.?
I mostly use my saw for making blanks for the lathe, but would like to try re-sawing for book matching projects.

Thank you all in advance.....Richard

[Dave MacArthur]

Carter guides are good for curve work, they allow the blade to twist slightly.

Block guides like cool blocks or wood are good for small blades because they surround the blade without damaging the teeth, providing best support for the thin area.

Laguna guides are good because they provide a good amount of surface area, and they hold the blade stable very close to the top and bottom of the cut. If you look at the physical position of the guides, esp. the lower one, you'll see it's closer than ball bearings.

Ball bearing guides can be good, but they only provide support right at the tangent, and thus also support the blade 1 radius of bearing above the cut, at the lowest. Double bearings can provide good depth support for wide blades.

European guides are discs, metal I think, that are adjusted up against the blade minus a paper thickness, and they provide good surface area support.

The metal guides, all except coolblocks and wood blocks really, can damage your blade if they contact the teeth. If the rear guide isn't right up against the back, or it walks, the blade will sink into the guides and get dulled. The wooden and phenolic coolblocks are just cut by the teeth and don't damage them.

In general, most people whose opinion I respect on bandsaws tend to like the ceramic Laguna style guides the best for general work. For small blade curve work, most agree the carter stabilizer is the bomb. I haven't used laguna style myself.

I have coolblocks on my 14" delta, and also use oak blocks soaked in oil. Have always been happy with it for small curve work.

On my 20" Agazzani, I have their "Euro Guides", and it resaws fantastic. I will say that I was surprised how far from the wood the lower guides were.

Of probably more importance than any of the above is how easy the guides are to ADJUST! If the move about while trying to tighten them, or they twist a bit, then you won't adjust them as you should and they won't work no matter what. This is more a matter of bandsaw guide design between manufacturers. Therefore, I would pay much more attention to comments on tool-less thumbscrew adjustments and stable tightening. IMO, the new euro-style guides on the Agazzani are the best I've ever used for ease and accuracy of adjustment, large vernier style adjustment, no wrenches or screws.

It just occurred to me you're looking at saws, and that is much more pertinent than discussing guides. Please give some parameters for size and budget, and we can steer you to good performers--all this info has been posted and hashed over a thousand times. In fact, click the link in my signature for many threads on buying band saws! Also, use the search and search on Grizzly G0514x2 and G0513. First, it's my favorite answer to 90% of "I want a new saw" when there is a new-tool size budget; and second, because that search term will give you 99% of all the threads you are looking for due to comparisons being made.

If you're up in the $2000 budget, then add Agazzani to your search and you'll get all the threads.