Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: ? Finishing my Hard Maple wood project

  1. #1

    ? Finishing my Hard Maple wood project

    ...my first post

    Finally getting to the finishing stage and still a novice when it comes to this important
    step, I have a few questions regarding the audio rack that I'm completing.This is my
    schedule:.... correct any missteps

    1 using a dye,transtint dark vintage maple
    2 a dose of BLO
    3 sealing, 1lb cut of dry shellac flakes, 1 or two coats
    4 Glazing
    5 Topcoat
    6 wax

    One other thing that's got me worried, is the 3/4 Birch ply for the shelves. I'm not sure
    how they will take the dye.Afraid I will have a mismatched mess on my hands.I know to
    do some test pieces but I'm wondering now if I should have made the shelving out of the HM....thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    International Falls, MN
    Posts
    766
    Hey Tom welcome to the creek! Finishing a project is always a trying time. If you use the search engine you will find dozens of threads on finishing maple. I would make a test run on a scrap piece of wood and plywood to see how your plan will turn out. I have used the trans tint dyes including the dark vintage maple just buy themselves with a topcoat of tartget sealer and topcoat. Trans Tint makes a great product. Seeing as maple is very close grain I woouldn't think you need a glaze. Also wax over topcoat does not provide any additional protection. When I have used BLO on maple it has been to bring out the grain followed by a topcoat. You are already doing that with the dye.

    Hope that helps.

    Quinn

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
    Posts
    722
    Quinn was right. Do test pieces on some scrap. You'll probably be fine, as any difference that you may see after applying the dye will mostly blend together at the glazing stage. The BLO will add some depth, but you won't see it as much on this piece as you would on highly figured maple.
    Good luck.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Shoreline, CT
    Posts
    2,923
    +1 about testing your proposed schedule on scrap from the project. You will likely get a pretty decent match but you won't be able to tell without tests on your own specific material. If they are materially different there are things to try, but be sure you are testing on scrap, not the project itself.

    I suggest using a powdered water soluble dye such as TransFast rather than TransTint. Why? The TransTint is soluble in many solvents. With hand applied finishes that increases the risk that brushing on shellac etc will dissolve the TransTint into the top coat. TransTint is great for adding to finishes to make dye toners, or when spraying top coats, since sprayed topcoats don't disturb the dye nearly so much.

    I don't see where a glaze will be of benefit. You have smooth modern lines with no places for the glaze to "hand up". However, with only a 1 lb. cut sealing, you would still get some penetration with a wiping stain--pigment which might increase the depth of the look. But, on hard maple it won't be a big effect at all.

    What top coat do you have in mind?

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Schoene View Post
    +1 about testing your proposed schedule on scrap from the project. You will likely get a pretty decent match but you won't be able to tell without tests on your own specific material. If they are materially different there are things to try, but be sure you are testing on scrap, not the project itself.

    I suggest using a powdered water soluble dye such as TransFast rather than TransTint. Why? The TransTint is soluble in many solvents. With hand applied finishes that increases the risk that brushing on shellac etc will dissolve the TransTint into the top coat. TransTint is great for adding to finishes to make dye toners, or when spraying top coats, since sprayed topcoats don't disturb the dye nearly so much.

    I don't see where a glaze will be of benefit. You have smooth modern lines with no places for the glaze to "hand up". However, with only a 1 lb. cut sealing, you would still get some penetration with a wiping stain--pigment which might increase the depth of the look. But, on hard maple it won't be a big effect at all.

    What top coat do you have in mind?
    Thanks Quinn,Casey.....Steve,I'm kinda bummed about not using the liquid dye for being soluble with other solvents.I just ordered some and it's too late to change to a powdered dye.I wish I would of known before hand.For a top coat I plan on using
    General Finishes ArmRseal

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
    Posts
    722
    I think you'll be fine with the dye you have. Just make sure to let it dry thoroughly before you add the BLO and shellac.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Shoreline, CT
    Posts
    2,923
    There is a fairly simple solution, I should have mentioned earlier. First, use a light touch with the BLO. That pure oil will have little solvent effect so that should be OK, if you decide you need the BLO. Then, you could use the aerosol shellac sold by Zinsser for an initial seal coat. It's a dewaxed shellac and applying it that way will solve the problem of lifting the dye.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Tomball, TX (30 miles NNW Houston)
    Posts
    2,747
    Steve advice is sound... Be very light with your first coat, any pools or runs will drg the dye with it.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •