Newbie Introuduction and ideas to improve 12" miter saws

[Jerming Shei]

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[Joe Ruszczyk]

O.K. I'll go first!! The only real suggestion I can make is about the controls of the saw! The "up front" controls like on the Bosch 4410 and 4412 saws are a great feature because they make actually using the saw SO much easier! This was the deciding factor in my decision to actually put my money out for the Bosch 4410! I hope you get more useful ideas here and don't catch a bunch of nonsense!

[Dan Gill]

I'll have to look at one of the saws at Home Depot and get back to you on feedback. But here is my "Welcome to the Creek". I think you'll find this place is much kinder than the forum you left. I only look over there occasionally to verify that I've made the right choice.

If you come to the U.S. on business, try to get to one of the regional meetings. They occur on an occasional basis, and they are great places to meet your customers.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Welcome to the 'Creek, Jerming! A neat place to exchange ideas! Take and leave information as you deem necessary! Again....Welcome!

[Mark Rhodes]

I have owed the Rigid 12" CMS for a bout a year. When shopping i was comparing it to the Dewalt 705S. I used to work for the company that supplied Dewalt all of the aluminum parts (Base, table,fence, Arm uard, etc..) for the dewalt saws. My exp has been good with the Rgid CMS, tuning the table to 0 degrees is a bit of a chore. I did like the trigger type controls on the Dewalt better but over all i think the rigid is a great saw. thats my dos centavos

[Marc Hills]

In my mind, the big un-resolved issue for all current CMSs is the lack of effective dust control. I can see how it's a tough nut to crack, but any real innovation (and improvement) in this area would really distinguish a new model from the rest of the market.

Everyone talks about laser guides, readability of scales, ease of controls and accuracy of angle settings, which are very important considerations. But all that potential accuracy goes out the window if too much sawdust accumulates and keeps your stock from sitting square to the fence with you not realizing it.

[Bart Leetch]

I have to agree withe dust collection issue. There is a need fo at least a 2" opening at the back of any CMS or SCMS. The other item I didn't care for was the big round table on one of the Ridgid saws, it had no squared off table on either side to butt a shop built extension table up to.

I think it is Rousseau that has a yellow dust collector shell that goes behind the saw & costs about $200 pretty high prices for a piece of plastic to my thinking. How about incorporating something like this into the saw & be the first kid on the block to have a saw that collects most of the ships from the saw.

The only real way to collect all the chips from one of these saw is to build it on an open framed bench or stand & build a funnel shaped catcher below & extended behind with a rounded back splash so all the chips fall into funnel or hit the back splash & slide down to the dc hook up on the bottom of the funnel.

[Dan Stuewe]

The idea to improve the dust collection is nice, but maybe that would create two different tools, one for staying put in the shop, and another for putting in the back of the truck for job sites. The coup would be to have the best of both worlds, but it might end up costing quite a bit. Where does the money come from for these tools? The home hobbiest, the professional framer/trim carpenter or the professional cabinet shop? As a home hobbiest, I'd love better dust collection, but I'm not sure how much I'd pay for it. I do still use mine around the house/yard sometimes, so it still needs to be portable. I think Bart hit on it, the best dust collection comes from the bench the saw sits on (kinda like a table saw dust collection).

For me a saw that keeps its settings is very significant. But something that could be convinient would be an easy to replace zero clearance insert so that even with a not-so-sharp blade, the tear out is kept to a minimum.

[Steve Clardy]

Dust control. Take the dewalt saws I have. They have a 1 1/4" port, plus an optional dust bag.
My question, why not at least a 2 or 2 1/2" dust port.
This would work for the shop. Then have a dust bag to fit the new size port for job sites.
Dust control. Dust control. Did I say dust cintrol? LOl

[Jeff Sudmeier]

In my mind, the big un-resolved issue for all current CMSs is the lack of effective dust control. I can see how it's a tough nut to crack, but any real innovation (and improvement) in this area would really distinguish a new model from the rest of the market.

Everyone talks about laser guides, readability of scales, ease of controls and accuracy of angle settings, which are very important considerations. But all that potential accuracy goes out the window if too much sawdust accumulates and keeps your stock from sitting square to the fence with you not realizing it.

Marc said it best. If a tool company came out with a SCMS that had great dust control, I would be thinking of selling the one I just bought and buying theirs! I love my SCMS, but it does throw dust

The features I like about my saw is that it has all of it's controls up front. I don't have to reach behind the machine to bevel, miter, etc. I also like that the handle pivots so that when you are cutting at a 45 degree bevel, the handle is still square to the table. This seems much safer to me.

[Ted Shrader]

Jerming (or is it Shei?) -

Welcome to the Creek. It is a friendly place. Rather than fuss and fight with personalities, energy is better spent exchanging ideas. There will be lots of suggestions, not only on the current topic, but others as well.

In addition to the suggestions so far, let me add another. An easily made and replaceable zero clearance insert would aid in clean cutoffs. The current inserts are very thin. A deeper hole would allow for thicker material.

Welcome,
Ted

[Joe Scarfo]

Hmmm Taichung.. I used to live near there. Tinan to be exact. Spent a little time in Taipei as well...

Good luck w/ your search for information...

Joe in Tampa

[Marc Hills]

. To avoid the tear out problem, I am working on zero clearance miter saw fence. Any comment on this idea?

Jerming

I'm picturing a disk coplaner with the fence with a saw kerf slot. Something that would tilt with the saw carriage on bevel changes? That's a very interesting concept. I'd have to think a bit about saw tooth entry and exit angles near the fence, but it makes sense; if tear out is something worth minimizing on the bottom of the cut, why not on the back?

With regards to dust control, can anything be done along the lines of the Ryobi "Silent vac" technology in their 10" band saw? I thought the idea of incorporating impeller vanes into the spokes of the lower band saw wheel was a very elegant solution from a design standpoint. Can anything similar be done on a SMC?

[Gene Hatcher]

A zero clearance fence is a great idea. It seems that it would have to be sacrificial and easily replaced/adjusted because of the different angles of which the saw is capable. I use MDF in which I have routed a T slot fastened to the fence with toilet bolts. The pieces can get used up quickly if there are a lot of angle changes. I keep one set at 90 and another at 45 degrees as these are the most used. The downside is reduced crosscut capacity, but it does give an instant reference for the cut.

[Ted Shrader]

Regarding the zero clearance table insert, per my understanding, it is for cutting small piece of wood. I have already added easy change table insert with large thickness into my upgrade list. To avoid the tear out problem, I am working on zero clearance miter saw fence. Any comment on this idea?

Jerming -

While not required for most cuts, it occasionally would be very useful. Some sort of slot that a piece of readily available material (say plywood) could be placed in would be great. Should not add significantly;y to the cost of the unit. The casting could be prepared with the place for the insert in it and a small amount of machining to clean it up. No need to supply the insert with the saw. The hole just needs to be deep enough so the insert won't be cut all the way through.

Ted