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Thread: Cabot Australian Timber Oil

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    Cabot Australian Timber Oil

    Here in California, with all of our CalEPA rules and regs, it is difficult if not impossible to find some of the brands mentioned here and elsewhere.

    I was in Lowes this evening ordering a new garage door and walked by the title product.

    Has anyone ever used it on furniture? It says that it is a mix of Tung, Boiled Linseed Oil and Alkyd.

    Waterlox is impossible to find locally (can mail order, but that's expensive and a hassle) and Pratt & Lambert No. 38 Alkyd varnish is also non-existent in my area except through mail ordering at quite a premium.

    So . . . anyone ever use this stuff effectively? It says it is for outdoor use, but the mix (Cabot doesn't give the ratio of their ingredients . . .) seemed like FWW editor Roland Johnson's "Hot Rod Finish" which is a mix of Tung Oil, P & L No. 38, turpentine and Japan Drier.
    A creative man is motivated by the desire to achieve, not by the desire to beat others.
    Ayn Rand

  2. #2
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    It's definately for things like decks. The versions I've seen all have a bit of pigment in them to help them hold up to UV, and seemed to dry VERY soft and flexible. You would need to use it like an oil/varnish mix, not like a varnish. I really doubt it would work decently on furniture. Besides, I have serious reservations about the "Hot Rod Finish" itself, but that's a different matter.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the response Steve. It seems like the best, pre-mixed, wipe on finish with decent protective qualities and without looking "plasticky" is Waterlox. Is that the general consensus? (This being for things like chests of drawers, bookcases and other general household furniture).
    A creative man is motivated by the desire to achieve, not by the desire to beat others.
    Ayn Rand

  4. #4
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    Apr 2007
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    Columbus, Ohio, USA
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    I use this on outdoors things like my swing set (with color added), on a tree swing bottom (no color) and an oak bench on my front porch. I add it every year, getting tired of doing this every year.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Hamilton Jr. View Post
    Thanks for the response Steve. It seems like the best, pre-mixed, wipe on finish with decent protective qualities and without looking "plasticky" is Waterlox. Is that the general consensus? (This being for things like chests of drawers, bookcases and other general household furniture).
    \

    I have had great luck with Daly's Profin. As a matter of fact, I happen to visit an old client today who had several pieces of office furniture I had built for him over 10 years ago. I used Daly's Profin over mahogany back then and despite heavy use, the finish has held up beautifully.

  6. #6
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    Jul 2008
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    Jeff,

    Has the CalEPA band all Sherwin Williams paint stores too? If not they have their SW Fast Dry Classic Oil Varnish is Gloss and Satin by the quart. It's an Alkyd resin/soya oil varnish about the same color as P&L #38. Not a hard as Waterlox but a good varnish that dries fast.
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    Funny Scott!

    No, SW still exists . . . I'll check them out for the varnish you mentioned! Thanks, as always.
    A creative man is motivated by the desire to achieve, not by the desire to beat others.
    Ayn Rand

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