Don't know if it is a gloat, but it is old arn!

[Brian Effinger]

I scored a vintage DeWalt MBF radial arm saw on c-list today. One hundred bucks. It was left in the guy's basement from the previous home owner, and he was happy that it would be put to use.

Just about everything appears to be in working order. The carriage slid back and forth smoothly, with no play, but it does feel a little stiff. That could be because all I have to compare it to is my Dad's '80's Craftsman, and because it was sitting too long. The arm rotated freely, and the height adjustment, while also stiff, worked well. I was also able to rotate the motor horizontally easily, but the couldn't rotate it in the other direction because I couldn't pull the pin back to unlock it. I would think a little penetrating oil will free it.

There is a little rust, like on the pin mentioned, and some of the original paint is worn off, but cosmetically it seems to be in good shape. Just kind of dirty. I also have the original cabinet stand, which aside from a little rust, is solid as well. The saw appears to have the original table, but it is a little beat up. I'm not sure if I should keep it or make a new one. He did have the owner's manual, but couldn't find it at the moment (wife moved it), so he has my info, and said he'll mail it to me.

There are a few negatives, besides the frozen pin. The electrical cords are frayed in at least one place, and cracked in others, but being 54 years old, I can't expect any better. I will replace them. The other thing is there is no "on" switch. You just plug it in to turn it on. He mentioned that someone told him there should be some sort of toggle switch there, so I'll have to investigate and get something. Also, I think there should have been a drawer behind the door of the base cabinet. I downloaded some stuff from that old machine website, and it showed this drawer.

Hopefully the name plates come through in the photos, but if they aren't readable, this is an MBF saw with a "Rel" (release?) number of 244. It has a 3/4 hp motor and was manufactured in 1957. The seller said it was an 8" saw, but from everything I've seen, I think it is a 9", although, a 9" blade would just barely fit under the guard.

Over all, I think I got a good deal, but don't know if it is a gloat? I've got a little bit of work to do with it, but I don't think it will be too bad. I'm not going to go hog wild and disassemble everything, clean it and give it a new paint job. I'll just clean what needs to be cleaned, replace what needs replacing and adjust things if necessary so I can make some sawdust. Oh, and speaking of sawdust, I guess I'll have to get that book, and bone up a little on RAS's. I'm sure the creek and other sites will help also. In fact, I have to thank a creeker already. Neil Brooks has been a great help in the process already. I asked him a few questions, and he responded with a plethora () of information. I would have been more unsure of myself looking at this saw, if it wasn't for Neil.

So what do all of you think? Any thoughts, tips, suggestions or "you suck"s will be appreciated.

[Gary Max]

You got very lucky ----the orginal bakelite knobs are still in place. I have the same saw except a couple years newer and still use it. Mine has the orginal deck on it still, personally I just cleaned mine up and use it.

[Myk Rian]

Nice catch.
It is a 9" saw, but try to find a blade for it. That's one reason people put an 8" on them.

[david brum]

That's a beauty. There seem to be a bunch of recent MBF owners (including me) these last few months. They are wonderful saws!

[Neil Brooks]

Brian-

It looks better than I thought. You done good, and ... lest you wonder ... yes, you DO suck !!

You're right: penetrating oil is gonna' be your friend.

I took purt' near everything apart, cleaned it all up with WD-40 and a wire brush, and then used "Super Lube" (use whatever you like ) to lube most stuff, and used synthetic grease to lube threads before re-attaching.

I'll slowly *replace* rusted fasteners.

Make a new table. Make a Mr. Sawdust table. You'll be glad you did.

Cosmetically, yours looks to be in REALLY good shape -- much like mine was. For now, I'm not doing any cosmetic restoration. But ... your cabinet ... is tired and needs a facelift

The original MBF switch was a key. If you don't need a key, a standard, 15 amp rated DPST (four tabs on the back) toggle switch is fine.

Any reasonable hardware store, or ... Grainger:



I also ordered cord from Grainger, but ... I think I mentioned ... you can cannibalize a 14/3 or 12/3 extension cord, and get both pieces. Some like the coiled cord from frame to motor, though. Grainger sells those, too:



How's the motor sound ? How smoothly does the arbor turn, when you turn it, manually ?

And ... incidentally ... thanks for the kind words, but ... the folks on the woodworking sites have helped ME so much .... I'm just glad for the opportunity to pass a little info along.

CONGRATS on the buy ! No hernias, getting it off the truck. I've toted mine around a couple times, already. They ARE built to last !

[Brian Effinger]

Thanks for the comments guys. Myk, the blade on it now is actually a 7-1/4", but it has got to be20 years old. It looks like a plywood blade with steel teeth, so I don't think I'll be cutting anything with it. I've got to figure how to get it off the saw. It looks like there is some sort of thin wrench needed between the blade and motor, which I don't have. There are two thin slots in the arbor opposite from each other. I'm going to shoot the seller an email and ask him to take a look and see if he has it in his basement. With any luck, he'll have it.

I took purt' near everything apart, cleaned it all up with WD-40 and a wire brush, and then used "Super Lube" (use whatever you like ) to lube most stuff, and used synthetic grease to lube threads before re-attaching.

I took the knob off of the stuck pin, and lightly put a pair of vise grips on the section of the pin behind the threads and gave it a light pull. It came right out - I just needed a little leverage. Now the motor rotates in both directions.

The original MBF switch was a key. If you don't need a key, a standard, 15 amp rated DPST (four tabs on the back) toggle switch is fine.

Any reasonable hardware store, or ... Grainger:

I also ordered cord from Grainger, but ... I think I mentioned ... you can cannibalize a 14/3 or 12/3 extension cord, and get both pieces. Some like the coiled cord from frame to motor, though. Grainger sells those, too

I don't mind a key. Anything is better than just unplugging it to turn it off. I might take a look around for something original, and if I can't find it a switch like you posted will work just fine.

How's the motor sound ? How smoothly does the arbor turn, when you turn it, manually ?

I forgot to mention that. The saw blade spins fine with the power off, and the saw starts right up with no problems. It does sound a little off though. The seller thought there may have been a little rust in the motor. If I can figure out how to post it, I'll record the sound of the motor, and ask everyone if it sounds OK.

And ... incidentally ... thanks for the kind words, but ... the folks on the woodworking sites have helped ME so much .... I'm just glad for the opportunity to pass a little info along.

CONGRATS on the buy ! No hernias, getting it off the truck. I've toted mine around a couple times, already. They ARE built to last !

No problem on the thanks - I just want to give credit where it is due. You really did help me out. And as for getting it down the stairs and into the basement - it wasn't too bad. I carried the base down myself because it couldn't have been more than 25 or 30 pounds (maybe more). I had my wife's nephew come over after he got out of work and help with the saw itself. He's a big kid, so we had no problem, but yeah, it was heavy.

Oh, and thanks for the link earlier. I'm going to go through it now.

[Greg Peterson]

I picked one up a couple of years ago for $100. Put 8" Freud negative hook blade on it and cuts like a charm. And yeah, they are heavy. One man can carry it, but not far.

[Neil Brooks]

You don't NEED the slim wrench for the arbor.

Just "bury" the blade in a piece of a 2x4, sitting on the table, and then turn the arbor NUT (it's left-hand threaded, so ... loosen it by turning CLOCKWISE) with a 1" wrench.

That's a closely guarded secret ... that they tell you in the manual

[Neil Brooks]

How they sound ... with new bearings installed:

www[dot]youtube[dot]com/watch?v=3QHhq_1y1is

[Neil Brooks]

I picked one up a couple of years ago for $100. Put 8" Freud negative hook blade on it and cuts like a charm. And yeah, they are heavy. One man can carry it, but not far.

Hm.

On my computer, the pictures don't appear in your post [hint, hint ]

Come on, Man. Bragging is VERY cool !!

[Chip Lindley]

Yes Brian, your $100 MBF is both a gloat AND Old Arn! Enjoy!

[Bill Leonard]

I purchased one at auction for $45.00 a year or so ago. Cleaned it and tuned it up according to Mr. Sawdust. My "go to saw" now. I wonder how I got along without it. I own three compound miter saws. They all sit on a self and get used only as "remote" saws when I am outside of close walking range to the shop. Clean it, tune it, and use it, you're going to love it. I also have a PM66 and a Delta table saw, but the old MBF gets the most use.

[Jim Davenport]

Read this thread, another new MBF RAS owner.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...-MBF&p=1664010

[Myk Rian]

I don't mind a key. Anything is better than just unplugging it to turn it off. I might take a look around for something original, and if I can't find it a switch like you posted will work just fine.

A key switch will cost you, and a toggle switch is much easier to turn on and off. Especially in a hurry.

[Neil Brooks]

A key switch will cost you, and a toggle switch is much easier to turn on and off. Especially in a hurry.

Couldn't agree more with that, Myk.

In FACT ... I'm replacing my toggle (since ... as we know ... it's in the Back 40, on the MBF) with one of these:



Ordered it yesterday.

Going to cabinet mount it, on the door of the cabinet under my RAS.

I'm NOT squeamish, but don't need to reach "back there," unnecessarily