Tim, yes 5" would be ideal but I see your concerns. Here's a different approach: Remember the most efficient flow of air and CFM is the shortest distance from DC and a straight line (no curves or turns or joints, etc). The Bridgewood, I believe, is mobile. I know many WW'ers who operate their DCs on a portable basis w a flex hose and go from tool to tool w quick adapt. This provide max efficiency/CFM for tool you are using.The 1 1/2 -2 hp units generally do not deliver over 1250 cfm which really says, run one tool at time. In your case, you're setting up a new shop. I always believe in allowing for later flexibility. Once you do hard pipe, you're more or less "locked in" and you've made an investment in time and materials that later, you may want to change. I'd (IMHO) set up the new shop per your plan, hook up the 20ft flex hose w adapter on end and temporarily try this mobile approach for a while. Live/use with your new workshop and then you can make a sound decision on permanent DC piping. This is a bit "off the wall" but might work for you IMO. PS I also know many WWers who have 4" hard pipe systems that work adequately for their needs.
Tim, yes 5" would be ideal but I see your concerns. Here's a different approach: Remember the most efficient flow of air and CFM is the shortest distance from DC and a straight line (no curves or turns or joints, etc). The Bridgewood, I believe, is mobile. I know many WW'ers who operate their DCs on a portable basis w a flex hose and go from tool to tool w quick adapt. This provide max efficiency/CFM for tool you are using.The 1 1/2 -2 hp units generally do not deliver over 1250 cfm which really says, run one tool at time. In your case, you're setting up a new shop. I always believe in allowing for later flexibility. Once you do hard pipe, you're more or less "locked in" and you've made an investment in time and materials that later, you may want to change. I'd (IMHO) set up the new shop per your plan, hook up the 20ft flex hose w adapter on end and temporarily try this mobile approach for a while. Live/use with your new workshop and then you can make a sound decision on permanent DC piping. This is a bit "off the wall" but might work for you IMO. PS I also know many WWers who have 4" hard pipe systems that work adequately for their needs.
I LIKE that idea...I have a 20 4" flex pipe that came with the unit...why not push it around for awhile to get used to the new layout? Thanks for pointing out the obvious....sometimes I'm not that sharp!! I can then use the shop while deciding on a more permanant set-up.
I'm off to HD tonight ( I have to go down twice a week to take my daughter to driving lessons)...it is my intentions to buy either 5" steel or 6" S&D. I have 2 hours to kill and no nudie bars in town
Tim, for your particular situation, your latest drawing is probably going to be the best bet as it helps you avoid some sudden changes in direction. The diagonals are also good as you do NOT want any kind of perimeter path which adds substantially to the distance traveled in the duct. And yes, you'll want 5" gates. Make them or buy them. Making them lets you avoid any...repeat, any...distruption in the duct diameter and is obviously less costly. Terry's are nice and would work fine on your system. Fred V did his similarly, but with metal flanges since his duct work is metal, too.
Here are two pictures of my rendition of Terry's blast gates. I have no problem recommending them to anyone. These gates are simple to make and work extremely well. They don't cost an arm and a leg to make either.
There's one in every crowd......and it's usually me!
still no duct work...HD had no 26ga 5" pipe...they only carried 4" and 6". They did have some 5" vent pipe, but that felt pretty flimsy. They also had no 6" S&D pipe. I did see earlier in the day that my local hardware store carried 24ga stove pipe but it was in 24" length's for 4 bucks a pop.(that seemed fair) They thought they could order in longer length's and I will follow that up tomorrow. Buying online looks to be at least 4 or 5 dollars a foot, but more than that the fittings are abound $20 bucks a pop and that add's up quick even in a small shop like mine. I would prefer to keep this between 2 and 3 hundred bucks total.
The 24 guage would be even better, and if they can get your 5' lengths...wonderful! Plus, you're doing business with a local firm. You might as well spend your money there since the "entertainment" situation sounds like it's not going to be making your wallet thinner!
Tim, where are your priorities?? With the big game Sunday, we haven't heard a word from you about it...Seriously, hope your DC/Workshop project comes together. and you'll take a break to watch "the GAME".
Tim, where are your priorities?? With the big game Sunday, we haven't heard a word from you about it...Seriously, hope your DC/Workshop project comes together. and you'll take a break to watch "the GAME".
Is there a GAME this weekend? Who's favored to beat the pats THIS time?
j/k...just working on these things to keep busy till sunday night!! It will be a a good thing watching weis(departing offensive coordinator) and brady (winning QB) holding the VL(vince lomardi) trophy up for the last time together....
I'm hoping it'll be a decent game . Again, the "guys" are gathering @ a neutral site to watch/eat and drink. Assuming a NE victory, I'll hoist a Sam Adams or Bass Ale to toast a great team AND coach (after the game)!
back to the subject at hand...for no other reason than "cost" I chose to do the 4" s&d. It was 25% of the cost of 5" stove pipe. It may not work as well, and may need to be scrapped when I upgrade....but I couldn't justify the biessy fence AND steel ductwork. The yway i figure it i got a free fence for the money I saved in ductwork. I appreciate and afgree with all that was said in here, but it came down to money. If it doesn't work then I'll come up to plan B and i will have only lost out on $100 bucks and a couple days work.
Oh, and guys..I promise it will be a good game tommorrow..
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Originally Posted by Jim Becker
