Ceiling for Hip Roof

[Doug Walls]

Doug -I'm an architect here in NY, and I see nothing wrong with your plan to add 2x6 ceiling joists to the side of the rafters, above the wall top plate.

Thanks!
I've seen ceilings done like this with gable roofs, But I wasn't sure about this with a hip roof because of coming off the jack rafters!

Since your roof is such a low pitch, storage shouldn't be an issue.
No other truss type support is necessary.

Yea there wouldn't be much space left even if I wanted to store something up there. I'll probably add a couple 2X4 ties to each ceiling joist just to make sure there's no sag to the ceiling over time.

One thing I would add is some sort of 2x6 tie along the 24' length, above the new ceiling joists. I think a 2x6 nailed the same way to the rafter immediately on either side of the ridge would tie the front and backwalls together.

I was kind of thinking the same way! Especially since there's currently only one brace from front to back.

Thanks again for your reply!
Doug

[Doug Walls]

Maximum span for 2x6 rafters @ 24"oc is around 10 feet so you are OK. Can i assume the existing roof is showing no signs of distress? ie sagging?

Yea it's in good shape! Had well over 3' of snow on it this winter. I needed to get out the snow rake & remove snow from the house & garage about four times this winter.

Keep in mind that the existing 2x4 spanning the width are tension members to keep the outward thrust of the roof framing from pushing the walls out. So you should place the new ceiling joists before you remove those 2x4's.

Yea I figured I wouldn't remove them till the new ceiling is in. The one that goes from front to back will need to be removed, But as David Gutierrez pointed out I should add a couple of ties from front to back anyway. I can run them first then remove the old one.

Thanks, Doug

[Stew Hagerty]

My living room is actually designed very similar to what you have in mind, but in one direction only. You should have no problems.

Now I had an idea for you though. I don't remember where, but I have seen this done before: Run your garage door (assuming you are installing a standard sectional overhead door) diagonally upwards, following the roof rafters so that it disappears above your ceiling leaving you nothing but clear headspace below. You should be able to header off both ends of the opening and have your finished ceiling run to just inches from the wall in that area.