Delta jointer swap for Ridgid?

[Bob Riefer]

I have a 37-280 Delta 6" jointer that I paid $100 for, and then paid another $40 for to get new knives. The tables are not perfectly coplanar (and cannot be shimmed/adjusted), the beds are very short, but otherwise I have it cleaned up pretty well and it's serviceable.

I have the opportunity to purchase a JP0610 Ridgid 6" jointer for $200 locally. Single owner, used sparingly since 2001. Surface rust, but no pitting. I'm going to check it out in person to verify that this one DOES have coplanar tables. It is a 45 inch total length. The sale includes push blocks and an angle gauge. The knives are usable and not knicked, but I'll probably have to replace them soon.

I have no budget for a big time jointer purchase for the foreseeable future, so I feel like this is worth pulling the trigger on (and I'd resell the Delta).

Agree? Disagree? Any comments on the Ridgid jointer?

Thanks!!

[Joseph Tarantino]

strongly agree. i have that same ridgid and it's a very good tool. it's also one of the ridgids bult by emerson electric and it carries a lifetime guaranty which is independent of ownership. sell the delta and move on to the ridgid.

[David Hostetler]

I like the Ridgid, and if I had the $$ and SPACE I would sell my bench top jointer in favor of it in a hot second...

Especially considering the age of that machine, that should be an Emmerson built model instead of the TTI / Ryobi. Mind you TTI / Ryobi builds to Home Depot / Ridgid's specs, but the Emmersons are still more desireable...

Not sure who sells them, I think it's Holbren, but somebody out there has carbide knives for these jointers, kind of spendy, but a great upgrade durability wise...

A 10 year old machine, I would look at the belt to make sure it is still serviceable, chances are it has a set to it now. Replace that thing with a link belt. You may not like Harbor Freight much, but that AccuLink belt they sell is made in the USA, and works REALLY well on my band saw so far. I am seriously considering swapping the belts from my drill press to one of these...

[Bob Riefer]

Hey David, can you tell me more about checking out the belt please? Other than running the machine to be sure it works, and visually looking at the belt for signs of wear, anything else to check out in that regard?

Otherwise, I plan to bring my known-to-be-straight straight edge, and my known-to-be-90-degrees carpenter's square. I plan to check flatness of each table, and then see whether they're coplanar. I plan to check if the fence can be aligned to 90 and how sturdy it seems etc. Check for pitting or other signs of deterioration throughout the machine. Any other recommended tests?

[Mark Ashmeade]

I have that jointer. My tables are not 100% coplanar, and never have been. However, I see no degradation in the cut, the amount of deviation from coplanar is so small. So I wouldn't get all that hungup on a small deviation out of coplanarity.

Before someone asks, I bought it NIB for $199 on closeout, and it was the last one. I expected it to be coplanar, but the effort of returning a $200 tool to get another would have been out of proportion to the effect of the maladjustment, which to be honest, is nil.

It's served me well.

[Myk Rian]

Co-planar tables are a myth. You don't need them to be so exact.
As long as the outfeed and knives are even, you're good to go.
As Mark said...........

[David Hostetler]

You will want to check for signs of wear and deterioration such as crazing, glazing, etc... not to mention running the machine. A belt that has a set to it will cause a vibration in the tool as the set part of the belt passes over the pulleys. Typically you can get by like that, and if you run it enough, it should work the set out, but it might drive you nuts while it is doing that...

[Bob Riefer]

Thanks guys!

The importance of coplanar tables thing, that's interesting. I can see the point that as long as your outfeed and knives are nicely aligned, you'll have a flat end result. How close is close enough? (my Delta infeed dips close to 1/8" over the 18 inch length of the table)

[David Hostetler]

Just wondering, could that be an adjustment needed, or is the table itself warped?

[Bob Riefer]

I wouldn't have known how to answer your question David except that a more experienced woodworker than I am came over and took a look. The Delta I have has a couple weaknesses... The outfeed cannot be adjusted at all, the infeed works on a mechanism that can't be shimmed or adjusted, and both tables are very short. But, from our tests, the tables were both flat, it was just that the infeed is "tilted".

Meeting with the seller Friday night! Yay! Picking up my first ever load of rough cut lumber on Saturday! YAY! Starting my first ever furniture project on Sunday! YAY YAY YAY!

[Chip Lindley]

Thanks guys!

The importance of coplanar tables thing, that's interesting. I can see the point that as long as your outfeed and knives are nicely aligned, you'll have a flat end result. How close is close enough? (my Delta infeed dips close to 1/8" over the 18 inch length of the table)

No argument here! 1/8" dip over 18" is "a bit much." The casting is definately warped, or has been belt-sanded into oblivion. Trading up is definately the way to go.

My first-ever jointer was a little Delta/Milwaukee 6" jointer with 32" bed. It did all I asked of it for many years. Sorry yours is less than perfect!

[Mark Ashmeade]

Mine's out by something like a 64th over the width of the bed, 6 1/8". Very small indeed, but can be seen with a straight edge on the outfeed, there's no gap (the straight edge doesn't rock) on one side, and it does rock on the other side with the infeed brought up to the outfeed level. It's never made any difference at all.

[Bob Riefer]

This just got more complicated... For the same price, $200, I can now also get my hands on a "6" x 42" Grizzly jointer" (their description) from a local cabinet maker that is closing his shop. I talked to the brother selling the machine (who is not the brother that was the cabinet maker) and he's unsure of the exact model number. I'm awaiting pictures. He said they purchased it 5 years ago. It is 1.5 hp.

Any thoughts?

(side note.. and if I had $450 to burn, a powermatic 6" jointer just popped up locally too... but I don't have that to burn, sigh, so it is what it is)

[Joseph Tarantino]

really simple.....skip the griz as it has been used in a production environment. you'll never know when that motor is going to give out. as far as the powermatic is concerned, unless it's a fairly old unit, steer clear. the newer units are a meer shadow of what powermatics were. IMHO, the newer units cater to the market for uninformed status seeking tool snobs and offer little to no additional value for the additional expense. if it's a newer unit, consider yourself fortunate that you don't have the funds for the powermatic.

stay with the ridgid. swap the belt for a link belt and it'll serve you for years.

[Neil Brooks]

+1 to everything that Joseph Tarantino said, and said well.