Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Removing glue from acrylic (Dichloromethane/Methylene Chloride)

  1. #1

    Removing glue from acrylic (Dichloromethane/Methylene Chloride)

    Hi, I was using Dichloromethane (Methylene Chloride) to stick acrylic together when making a sign, but some of the adhesive has leaked out and stained the backboard of the sign. Is there any way to remove it without damaging the acrylic?
    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Sammamish, WA
    Posts
    7,630
    That's not actually glue, it's a solvent that melts the plastic together. You cannot remove it. You have to be very careful when using it, perhaps even mask to prevent spilling onto areas not meant to be stuck together. The best you can do at this point would be to sand with multiple grits down to 1200, then use acrylic polish to return the gloss.



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

  3. #3
    Hi, Thanks for your help ill give it a try!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    2,395
    Nikhil,
    If it isn't a big ole killer spot, I take some 400 grit sandpaper and work on it a bit. Then I take my MAPP gas torch that I use to flame polish edges with and hit that spot with some intense heat really fast.(In other words,bring the torch close to the spot then quickly withdraw it) It's not a 100% cure but it has worked for me to the point of making the piece acceptable to a buyer.
    Epilog Legend EXT36-40watt, Corel X4, Canon iPF8000 44" printer,Photoshop CS6, Ioline plotter, Hotronix Swinger Heat Press, Ricoh GX e3300 Sublimation

  5. #5
    I try to very quickly wipe up any overflow with a rag with dna on it (has to be done while the solvent is wet). If there is still a mark you can use various polishes to remove it. They work a little like using progressive grits of sand paper. Look at Novus polishes though my first step is usually with auto rubbing compound. I'm pretty careful so this is really not a frequent problem.

    If the mark is really nasty throw the piece away and start over.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •